Lighting upgrade?

   / Lighting upgrade? #11  
I really hate idiots that put those light bars on their trucks (and they are for off road use only) if you bother to read the label and don't dim them when coming on me. I have a set of KC Flamethrowers mounted in the bumper cut outs and I wait until they get about 100 feet from me and I 'Light them up' big time as in fry their eyeballs. Amazing how fast they turn them things off when I 'light them up'.... Only time I use them is for idiots that don't know what their dimmer switch is or idiots with light bars that don't have any sense.....:LOL:
 
   / Lighting upgrade?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I really hate idiots that put those light bars on their trucks (and they are for off road use only) if you bother to read the label and don't dim them when coming on me. I have a set of KC Flamethrowers mounted in the bumper cut outs and I wait until they get about 100 feet from me and I 'Light them up' big time as in fry their eyeballs. Amazing how fast they turn them things off when I 'light them up'.... Only time I use them is for idiots that don't know what their dimmer switch is or idiots with light bars that don't have any sense.....:LOL:
Thanks for pointing that out. This was going on his headache rack pointing to the rear. Been moving equipment in the wee hours, so hoping this and the takedown lights give some walk around lighting.
 
   / Lighting upgrade? #13  
NiLight makes very good lights at a good price

LED lights in the winter months make a world of difference on a tractor (or any vehicle) doing snow removal. I have spent many early morning hours clearing a very long drive into the farmsite so I could get out to work and the family to school.

When LEDs came on the scene I traded out the stock lights pretty quick.

I have used NiLights on several vehicles (as you said good price and they are bright) and have notice a couple of things over time (which likely affect other brands too).

First is the body is aluminum and is painted not powder coated. The adhesion to the aluminum varies and some lights will flake pretty quick and you can see the aluminum is pitted and oxidized underneath - perhaps it was paint over oxidized aluminum to begin with ?? - don't know??

The second is waterproofing. IP67 is supposed to be dustproof and waterproof - submersion to 1m of water.

You would think this should be good for most tractor/vehicle applications, but I have had IP67 rated LED's show condensation inside the glass. I guess no manufacture process is perfect so don't be surprised if you get LED IP67 lights and you notice some issues.

Having said this, my NiLight's with some condensation inside the glass have kept working except for one - which my powerwasher overpowered the IP67 rating. If they really get wet inside LEDs do stop working. In this instance the waterproofing failed on the rear of the Nilight LED housing - which I had installed as AUX backup lights on my truck bumper. I get the sense that the back of these LEDs are more vulnerable in the rear where the wires go in. Some silicone sealant may help if they are in an area where water spray can get at them.

Pressurized water is different from submersion.

Anyways, those are my observations. Today I wonder how I managed to work at night before I installed AUX LEDS?
 
   / Lighting upgrade? #14  
LED lights in the winter months make a world of difference on a tractor (or any vehicle) doing snow removal. I have spent many early morning hours clearing a very long drive into the farmsite so I could get out to work and the family to school.

When LEDs came on the scene I traded out the stock lights pretty quick.

I have used NiLights on several vehicles (as you said good price and they are bright) and have notice a couple of things over time (which likely affect other brands too).

First is the body is aluminum and is painted not powder coated. The adhesion to the aluminum varies and some lights will flake pretty quick and you can see the aluminum is pitted and oxidized underneath - perhaps it was paint over oxidized aluminum to begin with ?? - don't know??

The second is waterproofing. IP67 is supposed to be dustproof and waterproof - submersion to 1m of water.

You would think this should be good for most tractor/vehicle applications, but I have had IP67 rated LED's show condensation inside the glass. I guess no manufacture process is perfect so don't be surprised if you get LED IP67 lights and you notice some issues.

Having said this, my NiLight's with some condensation inside the glass have kept working except for one - which my powerwasher overpowered the IP67 rating. If they really get wet inside LEDs do stop working. In this instance the waterproofing failed on the rear of the Nilight LED housing - which I had installed as AUX backup lights on my truck bumper. I get the sense that the back of these LEDs are more vulnerable in the rear where the wires go in. Some silicone sealant may help if they are in an area where water spray can get at them.

Pressurized water is different from submersion.

Anyways, those are my observations. Today I wonder how I managed to work at night before I installed AUX LEDS?
I've had the same experience with a couple of NiLights in the past, water intrusion with just a hose, not pressure washer. Had 1 light bar lose a few strips of LEDs a couple of months after the intrusion, then had a 6" that got fogged up, but all LEDs kept working.

I've had good experience with Rigid, none have fogged up and have pressurization vents, seem to be sealed much better ... but not cheap
 
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   / Lighting upgrade? #15  
Are those 880 connectors what's on the factory harness so you don't have to splice on the factory wiring?
 
   / Lighting upgrade? #16  
I've had the same experience with a couple of NiLights in the past, water intrusion with just a hose, not pressure washer. Had 1 light bar lose a few strips of LEDs a couple of months after the intrusion, then had a 6" that got fogged up, but all LEDs kept working.

I've had good experience with Rigid, none have fogged up and have pressurization vents, seem to be sealed much better ... but not cheap
Why I buy all my LED's from SuperbriteLed's One they guarantee them (I know I had a failure and they replaced it), no questions asked and two, I only purchase CREE SMD's and Superbright lists the manufacturer with each one they sell. If they list their products as IP 64 rated, they are. Never had any moisture issues with their lights, ever. The one failure I had was a single bulb and they replaced it no charge. As with everything in life, you always get what you pay for.
 
   / Lighting upgrade?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Are those 880 connectors what's on the factory harness so you don't have to splice on the factory wiring?
On the DK, yes. However, if you disassemble the light fixture, there should be 2 spades connectors on the bulb. Either end, you can make a no-splice connection.
 
 
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