lk3054xs Replaced fuel filter and can't start tractor

[JoelD]

Hi all,
Turned petcock to off, removed bowl, filter and spring. Cleaned the bowl, replaced filter and spring. Put bowl back on tractor.
Turned petcock to air, started tractor, let run for 20-30 seconds, fuel was filling bowl very slowly. Tractor stalled before fuel bowl filled.
Let tractor sit, bowl filled (petcock still to air setting), tried to start the tractor, will not start.
Not sure what to do next.
Tractor ran fine before filter change.
Not sure how to prime or what to do next other than trying to start with petcock in "air" position.
I've cranked a bunch of times and nothing, including very little if any smoke,
I think clearly no fuel delivery.
Thanks,
joel

 

[YLee Kioti]

Try disconnecting fuel line before the fuel pump.
See if fuel flow is trickling or full head pressure from what's in the tank.
If flow is ok, then maybe debris clogged up intake side of fuel pump.

Another thought is to disconnect after the fuel pump and have someone turn ignition key and see if you have full flow. Hard to tell w/o a pressure gauge but maybe you can get a seat of the pants feel for it.

Sure sounds like fuel starvation.

on edit: does it have a manual prime pump? The news one do but not familiar with your model.

Anyways heck of a way to spend a day off but even so enjoy the day and hope you get it running.
Regards...

 

[ritcheyvs]

Sounds like you got air into the injection pump and injector lines. Now that the filter is full, put a battery charger on the battery (so you don't run it down) and crank the engine to purge air from your fuel system. Don't crank too long at a time (maybe no more than 30 sec); then give it a rest for 5 min or so (to cool the starter) before the next cranking. There are ways to bleed fuel from the injection pump and injector lines but I think just cranking will work for you.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Sounds like you got air into the injection pump and injector lines. Now that the filter is full, put a battery charger on the battery (so you don't run it down) and crank the engine to purge air from your fuel system. Don't crank too long at a time (maybe no more than 30 sec); then give it a rest for 5 min or so (to cool the starter) before the next cranking. There are ways to bleed fuel from the injection pump and injector lines but I think just cranking will work for you.

IS it possible to crack a fuel line at the injectors to purge air?

That way the pintle doesn't slam shut w/o fuel.
just asking it worked on our duece and halves....and read others here performing similar processes.

 

[ritcheyvs]

IS it possible to crack a fuel line at the injectors to purge air?

That way the pintle doesn't slam shut w/o fuel.
just asking it worked on our duece and halves....and read others here performing similar processes.

Yes. That is the main DIY way to refill the injector hard lines, as far as I know, if cranking doesn't work.

Most folks I know will fill a new filter with clean fuel or Diesel Purge before installing it to minimize air getting into the lines. On my DK, the fuel tank is high enough (if half full or so) that the filter will fill by gravity if you open the vent and wait for it to fill before first cranking.

I recently rebuilt my IP and and it restarted without much cranking. But I did crank it before installing the hard lines to ensure I was getting fuel spurts from the delivery valves on all cylinders (which purged air from the IP).

 

[JoelD]

Yes. That is the main DIY way to refill the injector hard lines, as far as I know, if cranking doesn't work.

Most folks I know will fill a new filter with clean fuel or Diesel Purge before installing it to minimize air getting into the lines. On my DK, the fuel tank is high enough (if half full or so) that the filter will fill by gravity if you open the vent and wait for it to fill before first cranking.

I recently rebuilt my IP and and it restarted without much cranking. But I did crank it before installing the hard lines to ensure I was getting fuel spurts from the delivery valves on all cylinders.

My mistake was not letting the bowl fill with diesel first

I’ll know better next time

2004 machine with 400 hours and the filter was a mess. I’m glad I changed

I’ve let it sit at the air setting on petcock and the tank is over 1/2 full so hoping fuel fills bowl completely and then some.

I’ll try cranking a bit more then will start checking the lines as instructed

Interesting how easy it is to botch something that should be fairly easy

Thanks
Joel

 

[marchanna]

I usually fill up the bowl with fresh fuel before I put it back on so it’s already full.

Sometimes I use the fuel that came out it, and run it through a coffee filter, that way I have almost exactly the right amount and don’t spill over when I put it back on.

 

[VictorW]

The first time I changed the filter on my CK30hst, I just changed the filter, put the valve to the air setting, and started the engine. It fired up, the fuel bowl filled to about half, and then it stopped running. I did the cranking as ritcheyvs mentioned and after about four times, I was back to running without having to manually bleed any air from the lines. Now I pre-fill the bowl as mentioned, valve to the air setting, and it purges any air from the first start. This is something that Kioti should put in the operators manual unless they figure new owners have had a diesel before.

 

[JoelD]

Thanks all, looks like I have a bunch of cranking in my future, will put jump pack on and crank at the 30 second or so intervals.
I've learned my lesson.
Now to get her running again.
Was first filter change and it totally needed it.
Thanks,
Joel

 

[JoelD]

Cranking and still no fire.

Can you tell me what this valve does?