Loader Loader controls not working on 2310

[archerynut]

2007 2310 with about 350 hours on it. Last year the float position was difficult to get into and now the loader will not go down. The curl works fine, in and out, and up still working fine. Took the plastic cover off and inspected the linkages and all were fine. Kind of stumped now, any ideas? All the connections were tight also, no hydraulic hose was loose.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

2007 2310 with about 350 hours on it. Last year the float position was difficult to get into and now the loader will not go down. The curl works fine, in and out, and up still working fine. Took the plastic cover off and inspected the linkages and all were fine. Kind of stumped now, any ideas? All the connections were tight also, no hydraulic hose was loose.

Internal leak in valve bank...sounds as if it is a minor one, though. Remove the spool cap (2 allen head screws on outboard cap) on the front of the valve bank (toward loader) and drain the oil out of it (if you see an accumulation of oil in the cap, you know you've found your problem as there should be no oil in the cap), wipe it out well, and re-install. That will also restore your float function. If you would like to properly repair it, so that it doesn't occur again, do this; remove the joystick gimbal linkage and the above mentioned spool cap...push or pull the spool out (not all the way) until you see the o-ring on either end (there's one on each side). Replace the o-rings with the appropriate size. Don't bother with ordering the MF parts for this repair, hardware store o-rings work fine.

 

[massey driver]

The hydralic control valves on these when made have a sort of fiber washer on the end of the spool or [valve] the end where the caps are.They seem to leak after a short while and oil builds up in the caps sort of creating a pressure when you try to push the lever forward to lower the bucket.The best thing you can do is pull the cap off[the longer end cap is the one that's for the loader up and down and detent.Take that one off and check to see if it's got a build up of oil,rust etc: take it apart and clean it up.Inside the cap you'll find a small split ring this is what holds the valve in the detent position.If you find that your detent or float wants to jump out what you have to do is squeeze the ring together a bit tighter this will keep it from jumping out.Now back to changing the fiber seal on the same end of the control valve.You'll have to take the nut off the end of the valve rod and take the spring and washer's off as well.Make a mental note of how you take them off{a digital camera works wonders as well] Once you have the washers off right in the end of the control valve you'll see a packing stuffed into the valve body,you'll have to use a small pick or screw driver to pick all of it out[it's going to be very brittle]once you have it all cleaned out go to your local hardware store and buy a couple o-rings to fit into that spot and over the spools rod.{measure the dia of the rod before going} anyway put it all together and it should be good to go.The top end is a bit more complicated to do but unless you have a oil leak comming from the top end don't worry about that.If you need more advice on this just ask.Oh yeah do a search in here under Nimco Valve Repair there's lots of advice in here already posted.Make sure that your quick couplers are installed properly.Larry

 

[samw]

hello what if you have oil leaking out of the top where the joy stick mounts

 

[LarryS]

Hi Sam

I just did this repair this past weekend. I also had leakage in the top of the loader valve. Did my research here on the forum and knew there were O rings to be replaced. Bought a kit of O rings, tore it apart and.....couldn't find the darn O rings.

Long story shortened: I had white plastic "wipers" that lie on top of the O rings themselves, the OEM O rings were clear/white--not the black that I was expecting, the darn linkage was difficult to figure out how to disassemble even after getting the roll pin out as one of the "balls" was press fit into the socket, the O rings were at the ends of the valve rods and none were in the middle, the online Agco repair book showed a completely different valve than what I had.

Even so, I could do it again in 20 to 30 minutes. The O rings I put in there were a bit smaller "thickness" than the originals but still kept the fluid in the valve. Just in case I put two good white wipers on top of the O rings. No problems, put in the new picket fence with the post holer this past weekend.