Loader Settling

   / Loader Settling #11  
I use a $50 non-contact infrared thermometer to troubleshoot bad hydraulic cylinder piston seals. If the area where the piston is sitting shows me as little as 5 degrees more than the rest of the cylinder, it's leaking by. This method has been 100% effective for me over probably a dozen repairs.
Good tip!
larry
 
   / Loader Settling
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Great stuff, guys. Thanks for all of your suggestions. Here are some more tidbits.

The lever centers fine and everything works great. One thing I have noticed is that the bucket creeps down, as well. Both a little at a time while I use the tractor with engine running a 2000 RPM (mowing).

Yes, the bypass works fine after both lift and full down.

It's been doing this a while, now, but when I tip the bucket down (so the bottom is perpendicular to grade) and lower the loader to spread dirt while backing up (lightly), the bucket doesn't stay in position and curls back up. Like it's pretty loose. I have to reposition (tilt up) the bucket a smidge to get it to stay. I thought it just sucked some air past the seals last winter and was needing to work itself out. I have taken the loader and bucket through cycles to bypass.

Bucket holds and lifts fine, it's just the creep.

Kubo
 
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   / Loader Settling
  • Thread Starter
#13  
JJ,

I'm sorry, I don't know what a port relief is. From the schematic of the parts list, I see a "load, check" for each valve. Obviously, the valve has a bypass valve. I don't "hear" any oil flow while the bucket is being held.

The valve assembly is a Danfoss 1625 AN, made in the USA.

Just got back from the shop. When going to full dump, I have to hold the lever over about three seconds after maxing the cylinders out in order to hear the bypass engage and the motor lugs. After that, the bucket has no "free play" and holds its position.

With the bucket dumped all the way, I can lower the loader and lift the wheels off the ground. You can then watch the cylinders slowly settle and the wheels return to the ground.

After taking the loader and bucket cylinders to bypass and holding for 10 to 15 seconds, I notice no heat buildup in any cylinders.

Kubo
 
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   / Loader Settling
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Guys,

I can't tell if that relief valve is functioning. It sounds like the relief on the tractor is functioning (internally), and the valve body is getting warm and I can feel noticeable heat from hot oil at the relief valve.

It's the quietest BPV I've been around. I'm confused. I'd run it to the dealer, but it's 70 miles away.

Kubo
 
   / Loader Settling #15  
Some valves have work port reliefs, and some don't.
 
   / Loader Settling #16  
JJ,


After taking the loader and bucket cylinders to bypass and holding for 10 to 15 seconds, I notice no heat buildup in any cylinders.

Kubo

Are you measuring cylinder temperature definitively, or by 'feel'?
10 to 15 seconds probably isn't enough to build measurable heat in the piston & barrel. 75%/25% on/off cycles for a minute or more are required.
 
   / Loader Settling #17  
I use a $50 non-contact infrared thermometer to troubleshoot bad hydraulic cylinder piston seals. If the area where the piston is sitting shows me as little as 5 degrees more than the rest of the cylinder, it's leaking by. This method has been 100% effective for me over probably a dozen repairs.

Just a friendly note that you can not measure chrome or cad plated items with an IR gun, unless you can adjust the emissivity factor, which most cheap ones can't. The plating essentially reflects some of the IR energy back into the item giving you false lower temperature readings. Rubber and non-metallic paint are good. You can get around this problem by spraying a little paint on it or putting a piece of masking tape on it. (just give the tape a little time to warm up)

I am an engineer and ran into this problem on a production line. My friend calls IR guns "random number generators" :)

ISZ
 
   / Loader Settling #18  
Just a friendly note that you can not measure chrome or cad plated items with an IR gun, unless you can adjust the emissivity factor, which most cheap ones can't. The plating essentially reflects some of the IR energy back into the item giving you false lower temperature readings. Rubber and non-metallic paint are good. You can get around this problem by spraying a little paint on it or putting a piece of masking tape on it. (just give the tape a little time to warm up)

I am an engineer and ran into this problem on a production line. My friend calls IR guns "random number generators" :)

ISZ

It would take an engineer to discredit a troubleshooting technique used successfully in the field by many of us lowly service techs.

I'm not checking plated items, just the painted barrel which is consistent in color & texture. There is no need to take temps from the rod, and not too many cylinder barrels are plated on the outside. Values are compared, not taken as absolutes. My results using this methodology speak for themselves. Whether anyone else chooses to follow, I couldn't care less. The probability of the OP having a bad piston seal is considerably higher than that of a valve problem, IMHO.
 
   / Loader Settling #19  
The probability of the OP having a bad piston seal is considerably higher than that of a valve problem, IMHO.

While I've never used this IR method to determine a piston seal leak, I tend to agree with RickB about piston rather than valve....But then that's me....;)
 
   / Loader Settling #20  
If one has a manual hyd pump, with gage, and connected it to a cyl, he could pump up the pressure to the tractor psi, and determine if the cyl was leaking. If the pressure bleeds down, then the fluid is bypassing. Then check the other cyl port to see if bypassing in the other direction.
 
 
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