Thanks for the clarification. Guess will have to check those "covers" and hope for the best. By the way and I'm, not certain if that was put together or asked for before: Is there possibly a listing of TYM "problems/issues/break down items" owner's have experienced (by model?) and which other owners or prospective owners should be aware of or do preventive maintenance to avoid?
Loader Loader valve control handle
- Thread starter Gregster613
- Start date
There are definately a handful of threads that list specific issues and then others call out other known issues for the K2 Series. Mastering search by specific TYM forum would be a must.
Some things I can think of for T233 T273 T293
Frame bolts loosing
drive shaft busting
fuel pump bracket breaking
muffler bracket breaking
wiring harness shorting
hood latch not holding
front drive train rubber boots tearing
HI-LO lever sticking and bending lower bracket
Trans oil sight glass leaking
trans shaft oil seal leaking
ALKY
Silver Member
my 233 is stuck in 4x4
OP
Gregster613
Platinum Member
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- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Bump.. I thought I'd reply back about my sluggish valve handle/control. I took the actual valve end caps back off again; but this time I was more experienced at it and actually moved the lever to extend/retract the valve spools ... lo and behold there was a complete area and spring that I had missed the first time doing this!
I missed it because I was afraid of the whole thing shooting out or lots of fluid loss so I never moved the actual spools at all 1st time. Duh on me! I completely slathered grease over everything and my loader handle/control is back working just like new. No more sluggishness or stiffness in the handle.
It still doesn't answer my initial question about actually removing the handle and exposing the complete control assembly and I cannot find any schematic for that area in the service or parts manual...but since it's back to working fine I no longer need to.
/pine and others who suggested I look again at the valve spool - were right and I thank you all. Greg
I missed it because I was afraid of the whole thing shooting out or lots of fluid loss so I never moved the actual spools at all 1st time. Duh on me! I completely slathered grease over everything and my loader handle/control is back working just like new. No more sluggishness or stiffness in the handle.
It still doesn't answer my initial question about actually removing the handle and exposing the complete control assembly and I cannot find any schematic for that area in the service or parts manual...but since it's back to working fine I no longer need to.
/pine and others who suggested I look again at the valve spool - were right and I thank you all. Greg
joeyd
Platinum Member
Gregster,
This winter I lost the curl function on my loader, it ended up being a broken cable due to rust. Here are a couple of pictures of the assembly under the joystick on my 353. I do not know if your 273 is the same.
This winter I lost the curl function on my loader, it ended up being a broken cable due to rust. Here are a couple of pictures of the assembly under the joystick on my 353. I do not know if your 273 is the same.
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Gregster613
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- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi Joeyd, I saw your thread and that's the area I was trying to uncover to grease/re-grease and check the balls to see if they were plastic or steel. But...I got stuck at trying to remove the black plastic cover just on top of the joystick lock? How did you get it removed?? I just couldn't seem to find an appropriate way to get it to come up and off. Sure didn't want to break it either! My joystick looks practically identical to your pictures.
As far as the cables connecting to the valve spool, I assume one can remove the cap/cover on the valve at that end also? You said that you - adjusted - the cables by screwing/unscrewing the ends? I didn't quite see where the adjustment function was located? I sure would like to get some type of motorcycle chain lube sprayed into the cables to assist them in remaining flexible - slide-able also. Even if it isn't needed, I don't see how it could hurt any? Any further advice/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg
As far as the cables connecting to the valve spool, I assume one can remove the cap/cover on the valve at that end also? You said that you - adjusted - the cables by screwing/unscrewing the ends? I didn't quite see where the adjustment function was located? I sure would like to get some type of motorcycle chain lube sprayed into the cables to assist them in remaining flexible - slide-able also. Even if it isn't needed, I don't see how it could hurt any? Any further advice/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg
joeyd
Platinum Member
Gregster,
I removed the three bolts on the plastic cover, (there is another on the seat side), that exposes the rubber boot. The boot was partially held in place by pressure from the two bolts that holds the joystick control. As I remember the cables can be adjusted under the joystick control, there is a lock nut that holds the adjustment.
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Gregster613
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- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi Joeyd, Thanks for responding. My stick must be slightly different then?
I understand how to expose/remove the rubber boot, but - unlike your 1st picture in post #15 - my lever lock comes out "through" that little slit in the hard plastic portion that the rubber boot sits upon. My rubber boot just grasps in the plastic groove and easily slides up the stick but the hard plastic still encapsulates the loader lever lock and remains covering up the balls and such.
I don't need to remove it now after all anyhow - but I sure am curious as to how it does come apart? I had hoped to find a solution in case I ever did need to remove it and thought you might have found the way; but yours must be slightly different or I just am not seeing things correctly!
Thanks for the help anyhow and I'm sure glad you got yours fixed. I hope my last re-grease of the valve has completely cured my problems. It has for the current while at least. Thanks for the interest and suggestions. Greg
I understand how to expose/remove the rubber boot, but - unlike your 1st picture in post #15 - my lever lock comes out "through" that little slit in the hard plastic portion that the rubber boot sits upon. My rubber boot just grasps in the plastic groove and easily slides up the stick but the hard plastic still encapsulates the loader lever lock and remains covering up the balls and such.
I don't need to remove it now after all anyhow - but I sure am curious as to how it does come apart? I had hoped to find a solution in case I ever did need to remove it and thought you might have found the way; but yours must be slightly different or I just am not seeing things correctly!
Thanks for the help anyhow and I'm sure glad you got yours fixed. I hope my last re-grease of the valve has completely cured my problems. It has for the current while at least. Thanks for the interest and suggestions. Greg