Log Splitter - I beam or box beam

[Schultz]

I like the I beam. My dad and I build one a number of years ago. We welded plate to the sides of the "I" beam behind the ram and used it as the oil tank. We put top & bottom roller guides on the ram the fit around the top part of the "I" beam. It worked very well and smooth. The biggest improvment we made with the spliter was to angle the spliter down to the beam 10deg or so. That way a log hardly ever walked up & off the splitter.

 

[beenthere]

I don't care one way or another about anyone wanting the wedge stationary or on the ram, however looking at the picture reminds me of why I wouldn't want the wedge on the ram. That being the "log dislodger" in the picture that apparently is there to scrape a stuck (lodged) log off the wedge when the ram returns. Sticking a log happens fairly often, and I would rather have it stuck on the stationary wedge, and not returning with the ram.

If I have a log stuck on the wedge, I often will return the ram, and drop another unsplit piece onto the splitter, and then use it to push the stuck piece off the wedge. Also, if that doesn't work it is easier to use the maul to pound the stuck log off the wedge. Just my 2 cents (or less).

My splitter has a box beam that the pusher rides on with a surround box that keeps it straight (no I- or H-beam). On splitters that are used a lot, the slide on the I- or H-beam tend to wear a lot and need a lot of attention to the wrap-around guide holding the pusher to the flange. There is no binding on the set-up that I have, and since 1989, there are probably about 800 hours on that splitter (co-owned by 5 different people to start with, now down to 3). The total cost for each of the original owners has been less that $250 each, and the machine still runs good. It has a box beam for an axle (and oil) with the 8HP Briggs and pump bolted on the axle beam, and a ram on top of the splitting box beam (I will take some pics and measurements if any interest). Some modifications by adding a third wheel to allow easy manual movement around the woodpile, and to tow with small tractor or ATV. Also, a trailer hitch for towing on the road.

 

[rdln]

The tank/axle set up is pretty slick, My buddy used it for the one he made in high school and still going strong after 15 years. He welded a baffle inside forcing the hyd. fluid to travel along a tunnel to increase the exposure time to the outside wall.
After operating a couple of splitters I saw a need to have a mechanical device actuated by the ram's retraction that returned the valve to nuetral as the operator was busy setting another log on.
It's probably been done, I havent paid attention to whats out there now.

 

[beenthere]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( have a mechanical device actuated by the ram's retraction that returned the valve to nuetral as the operator was busy setting another log on )</font>

That is on the splitter I have. There is a detent in the control that holds the lever in return mode, and a mechanical link is bumped when the ram is in "home" position, to put the control lever into neutral.

 

[rdbrumfield]

My I beam is 61/2X81/2 and the top is 1/2" thick. As you can see by the warping of the top flange it should have been reinforced. The knife has 3/4 bolts in front and I have sheared them off, as you can see I have welded a pate behind the knife to help out. I have split some pretty ugly wood with it and it has held up to time, around 20 yrs old now. I run it with the pto and it is totally self contained, is nice to take it to the wood on the 3pt and not havint to lift the heavy ones is a bonus.
Hope these piics help, if you would like some other angles just ask.

 

[rdbrumfield]

pic 2

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue">the "log dislodger" ...reminds me of why I wouldn't want the wedge on the ram. </font> My total hours on the splitter are nothing compared to yours. However, I think the dislodger works pretty slick and haven't had any trouble by bringing the log back with the ram. The dislodger works every time. My maul just sits in the garage.

<font color="blue">If I have a log stuck on the wedge, I often will return the ram, and drop another unsplit piece onto the splitter, and then use it to push the stuck piece off the wedge. </font> Great idea!

<font color="blue"> the slide on the I- or H-beam tend to wear a lot and need a lot of attention to the wrap-around guide holding the pusher to the flange. </font> The slide on my unit has adjustable "gibs"...little pieces of metal that keep the slide aligned and are intended to wear and be replaced. Hopefully, they will work as intended. The adjusting bolts (2) for the gibs are just visible at the bottom of the picture attached to my post above.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> maybe even laminate the top with a piece of half inch flat bar to stiffen it. </font>

The manufacturers have picked up on your idea. The picture attached to my post of 02/09 shows the laminated flat bar welded to the top surface of the I/H beam. Even when groaning on the toughest log, I never see any flex in the system. The vertical "web" of the beam may have more to do with that than the lamination.

OkieG

 

[Loges1]

Last night at work I looked on my official Structural Steel Detailers guide wheel of Misinformation /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. No, I'm not a detailer, but I keep the wheel on hand out in the shop for a quick guide to size beams. For a 8"X8" you can use a W8X31, W8X35, or W8X40. With a W8X40 the flange thickness is 9/16", flange width is 8 1/8", web thickness is 3/8,and it is 8 1/4" tall. You can subtract about 1/16" on all dimensions for every size you drop. W8X28 and smaller the flange width drops to 6 1/2" and smaller.
IMHO go with the 8X40 or 8X35. Any thing smaller and it will probably end up all wadded up /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Hope this helps

 

[Anonymous Poster]

"We welded plate to the sides of the "I" beam behind the ram and used it as the oil tank."

I was always under the impression that this was a sure way to develop a leaking tank. Long term stress causing hairline cracks. But this has been suggested several times.