Looking at a Case 580CK for my new rural home (total newb to tractors)

[Sonny580]

I got my 1968 580-Diesel from township sealed bid auction for $ 2,000 and it was a good machine.---now it need injection pump repair and later a clutch, ( township operators rough on equipment) ---Unit has cab and heater and wiper, good glass and good paint.--even has good working beacon on it! thanks; sonny580

 

[maxfior]

Concerning your brakes, what's up with them. Does it stop at all? Have you looked at adjustment? I'd do that first. I think your price is fair, but man.... That's a lot of cash to spend on something so old. I hope it serves you well however!

 

[rScotty]

That's good to hear... I mean, I'm not looking to make money or re-sell anytime soon. It's just nice to know it's not too bad a deal.

I do plan to rub some elbow grease, and make'er look a little prettier. Once I go through and do a service on all needed items (I just added 5gal of hydraulic fluid as it was low - and it sure made a difference on how well it all worked)... I don't know it's maintenance schedule, so I'll start a new one and keep up on it.

... I guess I'm back to my question, and I can post it in another thread if needed. But I'd like to know best way to start troubleshooting the brakes. First thought is to pull wheels, and check the shoes/etc. But, wasn't sure if there's a more simple FIRST step. Anyone with ideas, I'm all ears!

I'm glad to hear there are other old mechanics out there who appreciate how well those old gassers were built. Our JD310 is pushing 7000 hours on the meter and still works good as a new one. Our 1958 JD530 Ag tractor was retired and then used as a stationary water pump in a corn field for a decade. To our surprise when we unhooked the water lines it worked just fine and we drove it to its new home. Even the power steering works!

As for brakes, check the exploded diagrams to see where they are. The brakes may or may not be behind the rear wheels. Lots of those old machines put their brakes on the countershaft instead of the rear axle. On a heavy low-geared machine you get better braking that way.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[KWentling]

So I've been doing a little research on these and may go look at one today. I've read that the park brake locks the right side only unless the pedals are linked together. It probably had the brake set without the pedals connected and was operated with the park brake on, wearing that brake. It's supposedly a drum or band, don't remember which and the axle has to be pulled to repair. Could also be an oil soaked lining problem. Looks like terrain that I would want good brakes!

 

[LarJea]

First thing I would do is pull the top cover off the rear differential and check the ring/pinion and bearings, not fun splitting that tractor in two.

 

[LarJea]

As far as your brakes are concerned if they are like the ones that were on my 580B you do NOT pull the wheels off. There is a housing on each side of the transaxle that needs to come off to get to the brakes. Besides replacing the bands check that the ball bearings are perfectly round.

 

[KWentling]

As far as your brakes are concerned if they are like the ones that were on my 580B you do NOT pull the wheels off. There is a housing on each side of the transaxle that needs to come off to get to the brakes. Besides replacing the bands check that the ball bearings are perfectly round.

That's good to know. Still thinking on the one we looked at. Needs injection pump work so didn't get to try it out much.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

... I guess I'm back to my question, and I can post it in another thread if needed. But I'd like to know best way to start troubleshooting the brakes. First thought is to pull wheels, and check the shoes/etc. But, wasn't sure if there's a more simple FIRST step. Anyone with ideas, I'm all ears!

Thought I'd post an update...

Never pulled the rear apart, and after some use... the right rear will now skid the wheel. Not sure what changed, but now the cutting brakes (split pedal) work great and I can slow the tractor. Not as scary as it was when I first got it.

Other then severe leaking from a few cylinders (of the backhoe attachment, one cylinder pours a stream of fluid now - I'll have to work on new seals or getting them checked by someone)... and a recent P/S hose leak, it's been a great rig.

I broke a handle off the gannon levers, and one was already missing. I'll weld up a new set here soon... plan to make them different lengths to differentiate the controls. I don't use the rippers, so they'll get a short handle... and, it'll progress taller from side-to-side tilt to the dig tilt to the up/down of the gannon. It'll be nice to have them in that order, and not my current "vice-grip" handles. Haha.

... I'm only using it for maintenance on the property now. Moved hundreds of yards of material with it over the time we've had it. Now it's just road maintenance, and maybe one more trench if I decide to use 'ground mount' solar panels.

Cheers!

 

[LarJea]

Providing your CK is like my old 580B when the brake assembly ball bearings get out of round they will lock up the wheel when applied. When I did mine I bought the whole brake kit, if on a budget you might get by with just the bearings.
If I remember right it was not a hard job to do.

 

[LarJea]

Should also mention if the steel balls look ok you might get by cleaning out all the rust and dirt and check the seals.