LT 180 sputters when backing up

[buckbros]

I Have a JD LT180 that I bought new. It has the 17hp Kaw engine. When I go in reverse
the engine sputters as if it is running out of gas. I have by-passed the RIO that is out on the backside of the dash thinking it may be that. It still wants to miss & sputter when backing up. Is there another switch somewhere on this thing that may be the culprit?

 

[Roadworthy]

I have a Craftsman GT. If the blade is engaged (electric clutch) the engine will die if shifted into reverse. There is an override position on the ignition switch to prevent this. I'm not saying that's your problem just giving you a possibility.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I can only think to check your bypass RIO wiring. Only while backing up huh? Hope you get it figured out.

 

[tomplum]

Only happens with the deck engaged? For a test you could unplug the connector at the transaxle- by the right tire if I remember right. Sometimes a miss can be contributed to water in the carb bowl during slope and directional changes.

 

[buckbros]

Only happens with the deck engaged? For a test you could unplug the connector at the transaxle- by the right tire if I remember right. Sometimes a miss can be contributed to water in the carb bowl during slope and directional changes.

Only happens with the blades engaged. I just by-passed the switch under the seat & the switch @ the brake pedal. (I know this is a no -no). I only ran it a little and it seemed like it may be ok. I will know more when I mow with it. Are these two switches tied into the RIO??

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Only happens with the blades engaged. I just by-passed the switch under the seat & the switch @ the brake pedal. (I know this is a no -no). I only ran it a little and it seemed like it may be ok. I will know more when I mow with it. Are these two switches tied into the RIO??

Since they all will cut the spark to the engine, I would guess they are tied together somehow.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I have an LT180 with about 500 hours. It started cutting out while mowing, after it got hot, maybe 15-30 minutes. Just like you turned the key off. However, I knew it wasn't a spark problem, because I could pull the choke out when it was cutting out, and it would take off again for a bit. Ah ha, it had to be a gas problem.

I put all new fuel lines from the tank forward. I took off the fuel pickup line and used the opposite end, for a fresh connection, and I put a new fuel filter and fuel pump. This didn't cure it. I still am getting a lot of bubbles coming into the fuel filter. Maybe I need better hose clamps, or a new fuel tank pickup tube.

Cleaning the Carb: I took the carb apart the first time and cleaned it. That didn't cure it. The 2nd time, I took it apart further. There is a side brass screw on the top half of the carb that needed removed to help clean apparently. I also broke off the pilot needle's (low speed jet) limiter so I could take it out and clean it's orifice. I used Auto Zone's house carb cleaner. Don't get it on you, and wear safety glasses if you use it. It's potent. I also inspected the carbs needle valve under a microscope. It had a concentric ring, where it sealed into the mating hole. But I believe it was working OK. I also routed the fuel line with fuel filter to a more horizontal position where as, the fuel filter was almost vertical. (not sure it had anything to do with this).

Lastly, my plastic hood broke off one of the pegs that it hinges on. I went ahead and took the hood off. It ran fine yesterday, for whatever reason.

BTW, my RIO switch's rubber accordian protector shield has about had it. I don't want to disable anything, as I now have my 15 yo daughter on it, and teaching my 10 yo son to drive it.

 

[tomplum]

Only happens with the blades engaged. I just by-passed the switch under the seat & the switch @ the brake pedal. (I know this is a no -no). I only ran it a little and it seemed like it may be ok. I will know more when I mow with it. Are these two switches tied into the RIO??

I'd have to look if your brake switch is a 4 pole or 2 pole. A 2 pole is in the crank circuit and the seat switch is typically not. But anyways, it would be likely that the seat switch could be the culprit as you are likely changing your position on the seat to look rearward. You could remove it from the seat and even try flushing some contact cleaner through the switch itself. If you haven't done so already, look for the connector at the transaxle to ensure that it isn't at least loose and grounding.

 

[buckbros]

I'd have to look if your brake switch is a 4 pole or 2 pole. A 2 pole is in the crank circuit and the seat switch is typically not. But anyways, it would be likely that the seat switch could be the culprit as you are likely changing your position on the seat to look rearward. You could remove it from the seat and even try flushing some contact cleaner through the switch itself. If you haven't done so already, look for the connector at the transaxle to ensure that it isn't at least loose and grounding.

Both switches are 4 pole.

 

[buckbros]

If you haven't done so already, look for the connector at the transaxle to ensure that it isn't at least loose and grounding.

Forgot to ask. What is the purpose of the switch @ the transaxel? I forgot that switch was there. I do remember now.
I had the tranny out several different times to change the oil & the last time I actually took the tranny apart because it was not hardly moving the tractor at all and making a howling noise. I tore the tranny apart and found some grooves in the valve body & rotors. They were no more than .002 deep so I took some real fine emery cloth & put it on a surface plate and polished the surfaces until the grooves were removed. Put a new filter in & filled with 5W-50. Thing has about 50 hours on it & I actually think it is stronger now than when it was new.
Sorry, did not mean to get off course of the switch subject.