LTX 1040 wont run

[rcbe]

moto - trying to interpret what you wrote, suggest you do a simple electrical chk at the carb afterfire solenoid electrical connection with a voltmeter or continuity tester to confirm you are getting 12vdc to the solenoid when you turn on the ign sw. You may well have a problem in that circuit or a failing ign sw, particularly if you are still getting good fuel flow at the carb...
just saw your latest post - yeah, would still chk/fix above first; then try start. If no start, put a cuppla shots of rattlecan carb cleaner right down carb throat while cranking. If still no effort to start, then pull carb, tear down, soak in liquid carb cleaner overnite, probe EVERY orifice/passageway with a small dia brass wire and magnifying glass, blowing out same with compressed air to dislodge crap; rebuild with new carb rebuild kit using only new needles/seats and gaskets.

 

[motoracerx]

And now, if i throw some fuel into the carburetor to where it's getting into the cylinder, I'll get one big backfire, and that's it.???

 

[motoracerx]

moto - trying to interpret what you wrote, suggest you do a simple electrical chk at the carb afterfire solenoid electrical connection with a voltmeter or continuity tester to confirm you are getting 12vdc to the solenoid when you turn on the ign sw. You may well have a problem in that circuit or a failing ign sw, particularly if you are still getting good fuel flow at the carb...

Before I attached the new solenoid to the carb, I made all electrical connections, turned the key on, and the plunger on the solenoid would engage and disengage when I turned the key off and on. I can clearly hear it click when I turn the key off and on with everything together.

Prior to the new carb solenoid, there was no clicking or sound from the old carb solenoid and the plunger on the old solenoid had some drag to it...it wasn't nearly as 'springy' as the new solenoid plunger. Thouught I had this sucker fixed for sure with the new solenoid.

 

[rcbe]

about spooked to respond... is there more info coming? :confused2: try the above reply first and then post back.

 

[rcbe]

Before I attached the new solenoid to the carb, I made all electrical connections, turned the key on, and the plunger on the solenoid would engage and disengage when I turned the key off and on. I can clearly hear it click when I turn the key off and on with everything together.

Prior to the new carb solenoid, there was no clicking or sound from the old carb solenoid and the plunger on the old solenoid had some drag to it...it wasn't nearly as 'springy' as the new solenoid plunger. Thouught I had this sucker fixed for sure with the new solenoid.

OK - I.m clear on the solenoid saga

 

[rcbe]

duplicate

 

[motoracerx]

I have 12.05 volts going to the electrical connector that plugs into the new carb solenoid.

 

[motoracerx]

Sprayed carb cleaner into carb, one big backfire....just like when I tossed some gas into the carb.

 

[Dave M7040]

From Kohler engine web site, description of two possible loctions of fuel pump and operational sequence:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/20_690_01_EN.pdf
See page 21 of 76

Some engines are equipped with one of two optional
pulse fuel pumps. One is mounted to speed control
bracket, and other is mounted to air cleaner base.
Fuel pump has two internal chambers separated by
a diaphragm. Air chamber is connected to engine
crankcase by a rubber hose. Fuel chamber has an inlet
from fuel tank, and an outlet to carburetor. Inlet and
outlet each have an internal, one-way check valve.
Alternating negative and positive pressures in crankcase
activate pump. When piston moves upward in cylinder,
negative pressure (vacuum) is created in crankcase
and in air chamber of pump. Diaphragm
flexes toward
negative pressure, and suction draws fuel past inlet
check valve, into fuel chamber. Downward movement
of piston causes a positive pressure in crankcase and
air chamber, pushing diaphragm in opposite direction,
putting pressure on fuel. Inlet check valve has now
closed, so fuel is forced past outlet check valve, to
carburetor.

As suggested earlier, remove fuel line at carb and crank engine to see if fuel pulses out. Test at filter is no good as gravity brings fuel that far.
Dave M7040

 

[motoracerx]

Took carb off. Remove float. Noticed that the needle is not completely vertical, it is leaning to one side.....it is off center at the bottom of the carb.

Here's a pic from looking from the bottom of the carb. The needle feels like it is in a bind and not wanting to move at all.