Comparison MAHINDRA,KIOTI AND KUBOTA,HOW DO THEY COMPARE?

[Bob_Skurka]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That's the problem. Kubota's are too light. Meaning their frame isn't heavy enough. They break easy.
Buy a heavy tractor, like a John Deere /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

What a great answer. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I'm guessing that this post was done in jest?

Yes, it is true that the "B" series Kubotas are "lightweight" machines, they are designed that way. But the "L" series and "M" series Kubotas could not be called lightweights.

Now last time I checked the weights, the John Deere tractors were not the heavy tractors in their class either. The Korean and Chinese tractors are heavier than the Japanese and American tractors. So referring to John Deere as heavy tractors is as misleading as saying that Kubotas break. And from the dealers in my area, and the dealers who post here on the forum it seems pretty clear that Kubotas are probably among the most reliable tractors.

So I go back to what I wrote the first time. But I'd like to add one more thing, and that is if the truck doing the trailering is not a large one, then a lightweight B series Kubota like a B7800, would allow for the truck to pull a trailer loaded up with the tractor and a full compliment of implements without undue stress on the truck. Just one more thing to consider.

 

[Builder]

It may have been done in jest, but the guy is right for most JD tracors are heavier than Kubota competitors. Stronger? We don't know.

My L-39 weighs ~7,000lbs. The competitive JD110 weighs 8,000lbs. That's a lot more steel.

A Kubota M6800 weighs 6,175 lbs, the competitive JD6420 weighs 6,590.

Most of the time Deeres weigh more than Kubota. Now whether or not that equates to being any stronger would take a lot of testing to prove.

I know that most people would agree that in most cases heavier built equipment is usually stronger.

This is coming from a Kubota owner.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Is one better than another? I think no. Does one have more of something than another, yes. Do some of the brands include things that another brand charges extra for, yes.
I searched for year before deciding on my Kioti CK20HST. I tried JD, NH, and Kubota among others, including looking at Mahindra.
There isn't one of those brands that doesn't have SOMEONE who's had troubles. There isn't one of them that someone hasn't posted about having a hard time getting parts, even Deere at times.
There isn't one of them that wouldn't be a pretty good choice, so the choice is yours. Find the one that fits your needs, and that includes how long will it take to get parts if your break down.
In that respect, you may find Kubota to be the choice as most of their dealers are long-established and may keep many more parts on hand, but even they often have to order something that is not commonly a problem.
In the case of many Kioti dealers, if you have a part they don't have, they will take it off a tractor on the lot and get you going quickly and then wait for the part for their stock machine.
There's no guarantee that your dealer would do that, it's a question one should ask in advance.
Kubotas light weight metal frames are just that, light, not cheap and easily breakable.
Kioti offers loader valves and joystick as standard equipment, and I think Mahindra may also, Kubota charges extra.
So you see, it's really up to you to decide which will work best for YOU. They're all 3 very good machines.
John

 

[BASIC]

Thankyou all for your help.I do agree that just because something is heavier that alone dosen't make it stronger.Northern NJ isn't the hotbed of tractor dealers,the only one close is a Kubota dealer thats also a rental center,I think their prices might be high.

 

[LarryRB]

if it is the rental dealer in Sussex county, they are actually cheaper than most and quite reasonably priced

 

[BASIC]

LarryRB,sir,yes it is.In their deffense I just asked for an approx. price,I'm going to try to stop in next week when I have time and sit down and get some fir prices.

 

[ddivinia]

I think all the tractors these days are pretty good.

What features do you need in a tractor? I suspect a front end loader and a backhoe are absolute minimums. Not all the tractors will take a backhoe.

You cite reliability as important. All equipment will break, so you need to find a good dealer that has parts. Some dealers give peopel that bought their tractor their front of the line in the service department. Some dealers have loaner programs too.

D.

 

[jeromet]

I HAVE BEEN CLEARING LAND AS A SIDE JOB ON THE WEEKENDS WITH MY L3400DT. DONT TRY TO TELL ME THEY BREAK...... THATS UNEDUCATED

 

[mrtractor]

meet mrtractor and find out what happens when you lack experience with a loader and buy an inferior brand to save money. The heavier the load on the FEL was, the touchier the stick. I eventually snapped this powerful cheap tractor in half just like everybody said I would. I am still looking for a replacement tractor. I could care less about the MANufacturere (the brand name) importer dealer company parts person. I want what I want. I like some of this thread, it speaks to me. In fact I might even be from jersey myself (notice the small j) but I know one thing we have in common, whether we use a TLB for proffessional or personal use shouldnt matter. The TLB i bought at a REAL GOOD price was rated for Residential use only. This term still has me caught in a spin. So Get on it and try to break it before you buy it is my new motto. I am not sure what that rating means but if they are implying that a homeowner isnt as important to them as a jobber, then a home owner should NOT be able to buy something that will break and cause possible injury or even death. When mine flew apart I was lucky schrapnel didnt hit me. Can you people come over to my house to help me with my tractor job after you read this, I have a new tractor I would like to try out. This time I need more people standing near to make better the law suit. Hopefully none of you will be injured seriously or killed.
So, I find this guy selling me on my next prospect. He explains a few things. Kub, is made in japan along with several other models(makes) that are similiar. These other companies (brands, manufs) produce a more competitively priced TLB then the leading brand co. so these are popular over there( japan) and leased to ricers every 5,6 years when they sell and repurchase the fleet. Then after being refurbished are shipped here to be sold to people like us.
They are still priced right. I want one, and I cant even pronounce the name of the brand (man,co).
I shopped from the numbers I guess to me max break out force while staying under my weight limit was important. Although I do lack focus and sometimes cross the lines I have drawn for my self. Back and forth I go from changing towing rig and job prospectus to getting what i require.
ie, do I want to fit threw a fence gate with it and tare up a yard or drive trough the fence and dig a foundation and rip big stumps. Anyway, look for me I may need some advice on my next few prospects.
BTW what would a 1985 Ford 655A 2wd weigh...( this is probly out of my towing but I could afford to have it..) This is why my wife hooks up the electrodes when I am HUNTING for the right machine.. Also I learned what an auction is. zzzap My wife has to use the computer now. besides, the electrodes are starting to fall off. Maybe they were cheap ones. zzzzap.

 

[tcsmpsi1]

I have just been wrestling the quite similar dilemma. Though today I am not intending to put my tractor right off into commercial application, 20 yrs ago I had a 17hp Kubota that I did things with that were all but 'magical'....and perhaps, some were.

I was in building/remodeling/landscaping business for many years. I had special 16" auger built for digging piling holes. When a 16" takes a bite in blackland/roots, it takes a BITE! (had specially built quick-change shearpins for just such applications)

Especially in small, lightweight, "breakable" tractors. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Then, moving and setting 24' freshly double treated special ordered 8X8's, is not normally considered for "breakable" tractors either.

One thing I did not do, however, is any finish mowing. Did a LOT of brush/small tree cutting with it, though. Moved a lot of rock and dirt, dug a couple small ponds (yep, it can be done with a small, lightweight, "breakable" tractor and FEL)

It would not, however, quite climb the grade on a large tree.

Never had an HST. And, the new one coming is B7510DT.

Going up or down inclines/declines should be a strategically careful maneuver, regardless of transmission. I never had any problems associated simply to manual transmission.

In "quickly" moving dirt/rock/brush/material perhaps with a HST transmission, well, one can all too easily do things TOO quickly on a tractor/loader rig.

The small, light, 17hp Kubota rig never gave me any trouble, other than my own doing a thing or two TOO quickly.

I, too, looked at others, including the ones you mention. There was no significant difference in the money, and I had to stick with what I knew.

One of the first things I will do, is build my own 'pallet fork' set up for replacing the bucket. Moving lumber, logs and taking out stumps. Heavy duty forks on the FEL can get under and break roots quite well.

Even with the poor, lightweight, breakable tractor(s).