Mowing Mahindra tractor over heating, Please Help

[sammie]

gimmodog Thank you for your reply

 

[sammie]

sd455dan Thank you for your reply. When I first start my tractor cold, everything is fine with the temp gauge even with turning on my AC. This over heating problem takes about 1/2 hour of cutting my grass which is only about 6 inches tall considering I cut my grass every week. once my tractor over heats my cutting is done for the day. This is a new problem I have had since the first week in July when my fan blade broke cutting the belt also. My dealer changed the fan and belt and from that point my AC would start Squealing and I would have to turn the AC on and off 3 or 4 times before the Squealing would stop. My dealer has checked the belt tension 2 times and said that is good.

 

[sammie]

aczlan Thank you for your reply. We always clean the radiator and screens often.

 

[sammie]

searcyfarms Thank you again sir for all your help. Right now this is the second A/C condenser that I am on in 4 years and this condenser is less that 1 year old. I personally believe this AC condenser is dragging after I get it from squealing by turning the ac on and off 3 or 4 times. You might have a point on the thermostat being part of the problem. I told my dealer along with the ac condenser might being bad that I also thought my thermostat might not be 100%. grill/airflow restriction I don't think is a issue because my tractor is cleaned along with the radiator and screens every time I use the tractor. searcyfarms my tractor has 60 HP. and has not had this over heating problem in the past 4 years till the fan broke in July of this year. I am in Mississippi and the grass I cut in front of my home is about 6 inches tall. In the past I been able to cut my deer food plots that are 3 ft tall and never had a over heating problem even in my medium and number 1 gear that I have used for the past 4 years.

 

[searcyfarms]

hey sammie - ok so usually a thermostat is easily accessible, not sure on your unit BUT - no more expensive than they are and the cost of a seal and antifreeze they are a easy/inexpensive repair and again I say usually........some can be a booger to get to - if I suspect heating/cooling issues I usually change them by default and I boil the replacement in the kitchen with my wifes cooking thermometer before installing and also boil the old one and usually u can see why you are having issues if that is the problem - if not its been eliminated of suspicion. IF the AC is loading the motor you should be able to tell to some degree by reduction of engine rpm especially when idling - its also possible that the compressor is causing more friction at higher RPMs. You tractor is 60hp max but only 48 on pto to the mower so that is where I came up with that number - big difference but if you have not experienced problems in the past I would say you should be good.

Someone already mentioned the possibility of contamination of the system from the first failure due to filings still being in the A/C system causing the second AC compressor to fail. Its not entirely impossible to have that happen OR to just get a bad AC compressor - it does happen......usually they fail quicker if they are a marginal one and it sounds like your climate warrants regular use.

When running does the AC seem to be cool like always or take longer to get cool - any variances there?

Whatever increased load/reduced air/water that has changed in the tractor is small enough that it takes time to get things heated up - as temps cool I bet you find it will take longer to heat up as well.

It could be a SMALL reduction in Fan Blade rotation that is causing less air to be pulled because of a slipping belt, due to glazing ( already mentioned ) or the ac load causing the belt to heat up/stretch and slip causing the fan to pull less air - again its a small issue that is taking time to show its face - makes logical sense at idle because its slipping enough to cause reduction in airflow due to less rotation and at higher speeds there is more momentum that will keep it spinning faster however it also makes sense that at reduced rotation speed the water pump is going slower/slipping/moving less water AND a poorly functioning thermostat that is limiting water flow could also be contributing.

does the engine water pump get turned by this same belt?

 

[sammie]

searcyfarms Thank you so very much sir for all your help. My dealer talked about changing the thermostat this week. I will post if that has solved my problem. Now searcyfarms like I said in my first post, I put the tractor back in medium and number 1 in the gears, and I had to open all the windows like I have had to do many times before, but with the ac off I was able to completely cut all 6 acres of grass around my house with the temperature now just below 1/2 and no over heating. As for the 48 HP-PTO my dealer sold me the 12 ft. bush hog and it has worked great for the past 4 years without any problems in over heating or anything else. You asked about contamination of the system, My dealer takes care of my tractor for me, because I have Polio and its everything I can do just to pull myself up into my tractor with the help of a 2 step ladder. The AC does cool good right from the start.

Whatever increased load/reduced air/water that has changed in the tractor is small enough that it takes time to get things heated up - as temps cool I bet you find it will take longer to heat up as well.

Answer, once my tractor gets hot, even after I get the temp down to 1/2, it will heat right up quickly if the ac is turned back on while cutting my grass.

searcyfarms I am not sure about the water pump. I did ask my dealer about that. As far as the belt, in July my tractor got a new belt when the fan was replaced, and that is when all this over heating problem started. Again I thank you searcyfarms for all your patience with me and for all your help.

 

[searcyfarms]

ok so I found a video of a 6110, it was a 2013/cab so presuming they are the same as yours? there are two belts - which could or could not contribute to the issues, lets say they both run against the fan blade and water pump or one/other, the AC compressor could be loading the belt with drag thus causing slippage of either or both - since you are not able to do a lot of troubleshooting I am glad you have a great shop that is trying to help you - sounds like they are trying to eliminate things - I do see the water pump indeed runs off the belt and also runs the fan - I saw on a non A/C 6110 the single belt runs around the crank pulley/water pump/alternator/fan which is direct drive off the water pump - so if one is slowing down they all are - thus creating your issues - if that belt has EVER squealed to any extent, the belt is like glazed/stretched/worn so I would call it suspect especially since things are only showing up after a bit of time and things start loosening up and getting hot etc.......I can tell the alternator bracket takes up tension in the one belt but cant tell how the AC belt functions for tension.

if everything is clean which I suspect it is since the guys at the shop have been all over it more than once - I would be heading as you are down the road of thermostat function, ac compressor defective causing issues due to drag then heat then slippage - or any of the combination to the fan/water pump performance due to that slippage - hopefully they get you fixed up in short order at least its cooling off some here so maybe for you too soon!!!!

 

[sammie]

searcyfarms Thank you so very much for all your help. Have a great week Sammie

 

[searcyfarms]

hope you get it going.........let us know how it goes

 

[sammie]

searcyfarms I will Sir, Thank you so very much for all your help. Have a great week Sammie