Atlanta Panther
Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2013
- Messages
- 45
- Location
- Madison, Ga
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200HST with LA524 Loader, Quick Connect; Loaded R4 Tires
I'm new to tractoring but I think I picked a good one last year (with a lot of people's guidance) in a new Kubota L3200 HST 4WD for my 20 acre horse farm that is supposed to be our retirement abode. 
Early this year it came time for the first 50 hour maintenance. I've done routine maintenance on cars and motorcycles but this is my first experience with a tractor. I've been trying to learn as much as I can from the manuals and from great web sites like this one where everyone is really helpful. I thought I'd return the favor so I created a series of postings for novices like me to show them the results of what I've learned to make it easier for them when it comes their time to do their own maintenance. I'm sure this is old hat to many of you, but comments and suggestions from the tractor veterans here are welcome!
Let's start with the basics - an engine oil change. First, look at the following video on YouTube. This guy does a great job! He is working on a L3400HST 4WD but it is very close to the L3200/L3800 series.
You will need the following parts and tools:
Warm up the engine so your oil will flow better and you can get a more complete and faster drain of the old oil. Remove the right bottom black cowling (it covers the oil filler cap) which is held in place by two 12mm bolts and set it aside. Your oil drain pan does not have to be too large - you should only get about 6 quarts. Uncover the rubber oil filler cap (it just pulls off - no threads) as well as pull the dipstick so you don't have an airlock. Put your Drain Pan underneath the drain plugs and use a 19mm wrench to take them off. Yes that's right, there are two drain plugs, one on each side of the center shaft. Drain the oil into your pan.
While the oil is draining you can remove the filter. As the video shows, there will be some oil leakage when you take off the filter. If you don't want a mess on your engine you can make a little pseudo-funnel from aluminum foil. Place it directly underneath the filter where it meets the filter boss mount (I taped mine) so when you unscrew the filter the oil being drained will fall onto the aluminum foil and be directed into your oil drain pan. Unscrew the oil filter with your oil filter wrench. Once the oil quits draining from the filter boss mount, you are ready to put the new filter on. Put a little fresh oil on the rubber gasket on the filter to make the next filter change uncomplicated. Tighten the filter until it contacts the mount and then give it another half turn. One last thing with your filter; take a permanent marker and write on the bottom of the new filter the date and the number of hours on your tractor so you can see it easily. That way you never forget when you changed the filter last.
It is personal preference, but I always like to replace the oil plug gaskets when I change the oil. That way I can be assured I will not have a leak from the oil plugs. These replacement 13/16" x 1/2" copper gaskets are about a buck each at Autozone but I suspect you could find them at any NAPA or other well stocked auto parts store. Here's a picture:
The dark stuff on the edge of one of them is the original grey paint. Replace the oil plugs once the oil quits dripping.
Time to fill it with oil. Assuming you gave it a pretty good drain it should take right at six quarts. Oil is a personal preference. Lengthy postings can be found that have argued over the best oil. While I'm not sure there is that much difference in brands, you do need to use an oil designed for diesel engines! I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 since its good quality, cheap, readily available at any Walmart and I also have it on hand for my Ford Powerstroke. I suggest you use a funnel with a long neck. This will allow you fill it while standing if you angle the spout into the filler tube from up top between your Loader arms and the engine. You probably have one lying around but if not I can recommend the FloTool Super Multi-Purpose Funnel (Walmart SKU 007997610712) - $3.47.
Once you have your six quarts of oil in the engine replace the cap and the dipstick and start it up. Let the engine run for a few minutes to let the oil circulate and fill up the filter. While its running check for leaks. Turn off the engine. Let the oil settle into the pan and check the dip stick to make sure your at or near the top mark on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
If everything is good, put the cowling back on. Note that the right side of the cowling sits on a pin sticking out from the mount. Put your two 12mm bolts in and your ready to go!
You should change the oil at 50 hours, 200 hours, and every 200 hours afterward.
Good Luck
:cool2:
Early this year it came time for the first 50 hour maintenance. I've done routine maintenance on cars and motorcycles but this is my first experience with a tractor. I've been trying to learn as much as I can from the manuals and from great web sites like this one where everyone is really helpful. I thought I'd return the favor so I created a series of postings for novices like me to show them the results of what I've learned to make it easier for them when it comes their time to do their own maintenance. I'm sure this is old hat to many of you, but comments and suggestions from the tractor veterans here are welcome!
Let's start with the basics - an engine oil change. First, look at the following video on YouTube. This guy does a great job! He is working on a L3400HST 4WD but it is very close to the L3200/L3800 series.
You will need the following parts and tools:
- Oil Filter (Kubota Part # HH164-32430) $10.80
- 6 Qts Rotella 15W40 (WalMart $12.97/gallon)
- 2 13/16" x 1/2" Copper Gaskets (Autozone Dorman) $1 each
- Oil Drain Pan
- Oil Filter Wrench
- Funnel
- 12mm socket wrench with an extension and 19mm socket or wrench
Warm up the engine so your oil will flow better and you can get a more complete and faster drain of the old oil. Remove the right bottom black cowling (it covers the oil filler cap) which is held in place by two 12mm bolts and set it aside. Your oil drain pan does not have to be too large - you should only get about 6 quarts. Uncover the rubber oil filler cap (it just pulls off - no threads) as well as pull the dipstick so you don't have an airlock. Put your Drain Pan underneath the drain plugs and use a 19mm wrench to take them off. Yes that's right, there are two drain plugs, one on each side of the center shaft. Drain the oil into your pan.
While the oil is draining you can remove the filter. As the video shows, there will be some oil leakage when you take off the filter. If you don't want a mess on your engine you can make a little pseudo-funnel from aluminum foil. Place it directly underneath the filter where it meets the filter boss mount (I taped mine) so when you unscrew the filter the oil being drained will fall onto the aluminum foil and be directed into your oil drain pan. Unscrew the oil filter with your oil filter wrench. Once the oil quits draining from the filter boss mount, you are ready to put the new filter on. Put a little fresh oil on the rubber gasket on the filter to make the next filter change uncomplicated. Tighten the filter until it contacts the mount and then give it another half turn. One last thing with your filter; take a permanent marker and write on the bottom of the new filter the date and the number of hours on your tractor so you can see it easily. That way you never forget when you changed the filter last.
It is personal preference, but I always like to replace the oil plug gaskets when I change the oil. That way I can be assured I will not have a leak from the oil plugs. These replacement 13/16" x 1/2" copper gaskets are about a buck each at Autozone but I suspect you could find them at any NAPA or other well stocked auto parts store. Here's a picture:
The dark stuff on the edge of one of them is the original grey paint. Replace the oil plugs once the oil quits dripping.
Time to fill it with oil. Assuming you gave it a pretty good drain it should take right at six quarts. Oil is a personal preference. Lengthy postings can be found that have argued over the best oil. While I'm not sure there is that much difference in brands, you do need to use an oil designed for diesel engines! I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 since its good quality, cheap, readily available at any Walmart and I also have it on hand for my Ford Powerstroke. I suggest you use a funnel with a long neck. This will allow you fill it while standing if you angle the spout into the filler tube from up top between your Loader arms and the engine. You probably have one lying around but if not I can recommend the FloTool Super Multi-Purpose Funnel (Walmart SKU 007997610712) - $3.47.
Once you have your six quarts of oil in the engine replace the cap and the dipstick and start it up. Let the engine run for a few minutes to let the oil circulate and fill up the filter. While its running check for leaks. Turn off the engine. Let the oil settle into the pan and check the dip stick to make sure your at or near the top mark on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
If everything is good, put the cowling back on. Note that the right side of the cowling sits on a pin sticking out from the mount. Put your two 12mm bolts in and your ready to go!
You should change the oil at 50 hours, 200 hours, and every 200 hours afterward.
Good Luck
:cool2:
