It appears that plow parts are like chicken lips - none to be found. Had no idea that parts as simple as these would be so difficult to come up with. Got a Feguson "TYPE 16-A" single bottom plow that has a worn landside and rear furrow wheel has a tear in the edge. Read somewhere that someone removed their whole rear wheel assembly and replaced landside with a longer landside and it actually worked better. Not wanting to sink incredible amounts of time and money into a plow that will always have future part-getting concerns, I was wondering about using a heavy piece of angle iron, I happen to have a piece 22" long with 4" tall side on one side that I could drill mounting holes in to match old landside (which is approx. 15 1/2" long), so the only cost would be time and bolts. Does anyone see why this would not work? I do realize there would be the other side of the angle iron riding under the plow on the ground - but unless that affects the plow operation - would that be a problem? Would bolt heads not being countersunk be a problem other than looks? If this would work it would be a cheaper repair, so even if it were to wear out quicker it would not be a huge deal to fix again (not sure how angle iron metal quality compares to landside metal). Also, if anyone needs rear wheel assy I am probably going to sell that part of the plow if my repair works. Thanks in advance for any help.
Making a Plow Landside
- Thread starter kubob
- Start date
Not an expert here, but I've seen plenty of plows with make-shift repairs similar to yours. The wheel is called a rolling landside. They also made sliding landsides for some/most plows that were available when new, that were just as you described. I haven't seen an angle used though. Most of the repairs were 1/2" steel slabs welded to the original landside. The bolt heads would definitely cause more drag as they gouged into the side of the furrow, since that's where the landside rides. Carriage bolts would be better, and if you can countersink the holes then you could use regular plot bolts available at tractor dealers and TSC. You might have to tack weld the plow bolts in place because they are made to fit a square shouldered hole.
It doesn't hurt to try your repair. Few of us will put enough hours on a plow to make that much of a difference compared to the original intent of real farming.
It doesn't hurt to try your repair. Few of us will put enough hours on a plow to make that much of a difference compared to the original intent of real farming.
massey driver
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I'am no expert on this either but I can tell you that I've rebuilt the plow shear on my single bottom plough by cutting and fitting a old brush mower's broken blade in where the original one was worn and welded the blade into it's place making it look good.I did the same with the landslide used a old brush mower balde and made it fit where the landslide was worn.I just used regular head bolts to bolt the landslide on as the drag that they create isn't really that much.The problem is that they will wear down over time and you lose the piece you bolted on.Thats why the original ones are counter sunk the heads can't wear off.I don't use my plough for to much work so it works for me.Larry
I didn't think the bolt heads would create too much drag, and if I used carriage bolts would be better, even thought of countersinking for plow bolts and use a file to square the holes but, no more than I would use this plow and as cheap as bolts are, I could just repalce bolts before they get too far worn. The reason for the angle iron was because I happen to have a piece that would fit and seems it would be more supportive than just a flat bar anyway, plus if it were to wear off the bottom side, no big deal because none there originally anyway. Could be wrong. Somebody else told me "just try it, you can just unbolt it and take it off if it doesn't work" - sounds like a plan. Oh, reason I am not welding onto existing landside is I do not have a welder but I do have drills and bits and metal cutting blade for circular saw and a grinder and a free piece of angle iron. And thanks for the replies, nice to hear other's remedies.
massey driver
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- massey 175,1655 BX 2370-1
What can I say other then nothing ventured nothing gained???? Larry
sweettractors
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I have welded a piece of 1/2 X 4 steel on the side of what was left of existing landslide and let it go out the back maybe another 6-8 inches more than the original and remove the broken or lost rolling wheel completely--Worked fine--I have never tried angle iron. Ken Sweet
I have seen some new plows that have a small piece of metal on underside at the end of the landside - maybe for support - so, the only difference being mine would be the whole length, which may offer a little more protection to the parts the landside bolts too since there would be another piece of metal between them and the ground. Just not sure if the metal would cause more drag, oh well, guess I can always "unbolt it".
"I have welded a piece of 1/2 X 4 steel on the side of what was left of existing landslide and let it go out the back maybe another 6-8 inches more than the original and remove the broken or lost rolling wheel completely--Worked fine--I have never tried angle iron. Ken Sweet"
Ken, Did you countersink your bolts? If not - any problems?
Ken, Did you countersink your bolts? If not - any problems?