marring motor and transmisson repairs

[jmf7112001]

I to remove the engine in my1610D. I've had the engine rebuilt and trying to go back together with it. I can get engine and
transmisson together all but about 3/4 of inch. It hangs on something. First I thought I had the clutch backward, but pulled it apart again, but I had it right. Its like about 3/4 of inch going together. I sure there is a simple procedure to fit these together. Has anyone done it. If so what am doing? Any thoughts would be appreciate.

 

[winston1]

You have got to make sure this clutch disc is lined up with the flywheel bushing. Have you done that? Yanmar Tractor Parts: CLUTCH DISC_
Also, I believe the clutch shaft/main shaft goes into a splined coupler. Is it mated good at that point?

Does the transmission to engine have line up dowels? If so, make sure you are lining them up.

 

[moship]

Perhaps the transmission input shaft is hanging up in the pilot bushing (inside the crank).

 

[kenmac]

Does anyone know of a line up shaft for these ? I know you can buy the plastic one for autos at the auto parts.I got lucky when I replaced the clutch in an old TO20 I once had

 

[California]

Just an unsubstantiated hunch - I wouldn't be surprised if the clutch disc and pressure plate is the same one used on Datsun of the same era. So if I were doing the job I would try that one - particularly if I could return it for exchange until I found the right one.

 

[284 International]

When I did my Ford 1700 last fall, the clutch shop was able to use a regular clutch alignment tool (I don't know from what, but I think it was some VW or Audi unit) and turn down the nose on their lathe so it would fit into the pilot bearing. This was free with the clutch kit, rather than requiring the $30 or so part from New Holland. As California mentioned, I'd be utterly shocked if there weren't some common alignment tool that fits the splines perfectly, that may or may not need minor turning down to work perfectly.

I concur with Winston that it is probably the splined coupler that connects to the input shaft. I found it easiest to use a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts to get the motor to turn a tiny fraction and line up correctly. I learned that pulling the steering column would have saved me significant time in the beginning, just by being able to see and access things so much more easily.

Are you able to take and post pictures of the project and process?

 

[Neat 1500]

i have even turned down/ filed up a piece of broom handle and it worked perfectly.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Here's a trick that you can use if you don't have a line up tool. Install the clutch disk and pressure plate. Center the disk the best you can and tighten the pressure plate bolts (evenly) just enough that it holds the disk in place. Take you fingers and run them along the outside edge of the clutch disk and feel for any differences between the top of the disk and the top of the plate ( there are normally only three areas around the clutch assembly that you do this).

Take a long screwdriver (I sometimes use a long 3/8 drive extension) and stick through the disk hub into the pilot bearing. Bump the end of the screwdriver with your hand to move the clutch disk around and even up the gap. Tighten up the bolts and your good to go.

If you don't trust you fingers.... take a 6" pocket scale and measure the gap.

 

[Car Doc]

On the 2620 I worked on the input shaft to the trans came apart at a splined coupler and I was able to take it apart and use it as the alignment tool.

 

[jmf7112001]

To: 284 International. Thank you, Thank you, I would have never got it back toether with out pulling the steering. Like you said it would save lots of time. After I took the steering column off, I had it back together in stort order. We get get lots of bad info sometime of these forums. But there is usually one person with the right answer. I would have never got it together if I hadn't pulled the sterring. Thank You again and again for the info.