Well, when the starter (key) is actuated, one safety switch terminal should get 12 volts. If the safety switch is OK and then the clutch is depressed (I assume that is necessary to allow the power to continue on towards the solenoid) then both terminals should have 12 volts. When you let go of the key, power ceases to flow towards the starter solenoid and neither terminal will be hot.
Another temporary fix is to unplug the sensor and jump the two harness wires with a short piece of wire, like half of a paper clip. That action will bypass the safety switch and deliver power towards the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the start position, assuming all other interrupters (fuse) (PTO safety switch) (wire connections) are closed.
There can also be an open somewhere on that route which precludes power from completing its journey to the solenoid. Might be a wire unplugged somewhere, corroded, rubbed thru, broken, etc.
Can be tough to find, but if the key switch delivers power when actuated and the solenoid isnt getting it, there is an open somewhere in between.
Again, be wary of using a voltmeter, as it may indicate 12 volts even if there is a poor connection. You need a load to truly see if the circuit can deliver adequate power to its destination. A voltmeter is not a load.
And when using a test light, always “test the test light” first.
Don’t lose heart. Keep searching. The problem is there, just waiting for you to discover it. And you will feel really good when you do. Good Luck!