Massey 165 Gas..rebuild issues :O

[Brakeman]

Hey guys just throwing in a couple of cents, the domes do look a little extreme for a kit that is suppose to be similar. They may work but it will bring in some other issues, as what will the compession be afterwards and rejetting to equalize the difference. Higher compression I was told means more power but more fuel. The timing may have to be change to prevent detonation. Tell me if I'm wrong but my friends with old Mopars were big into the upgrades.

 

[Brakeman]

With the rear bearing cap could there be a centering pin of some sort behind the flywheel. Never had a Massey apart but will have to split a 135 to change the clutch. It did move so there might be something else holding it.

 

[Mike476]

Can't believe in today's electronic age that no one has posted their experiences with a rebuild of that motor, has been a grammar lesson if nothing else trying to find a combination of words that might lead to something when using the google search engine.

You said originally it had moved and then stopped, could you tell if it was a positive stop like it was contacting something or more of a friction fit issue?

 

[MBMassey]

Can't believe in today's electronic age that no one has posted their experiences with a rebuild of that motor, has been a grammar lesson if nothing else trying to find a combination of words that might lead to something when using the google search engine.

You said originally it had moved and then stopped, could you tell if it was a positive stop like it was contacting something or more of a friction fit issue?

I wish I could say....I just gave it a few whacks with the slide hammer and I noticed it moved maybe .o16...I mean I can't even get a screwdriver tip in the space it moved...but now it doesn't budge at all, and according to the manual there isn't anything else to hold it up.....I'm thinking it's whatever they used in place of the packing strips that were original...some sorn of gasket maker, but it's somehow permanent

 

[Mike476]

Faced with either having to split the tractor (which I know you're not interested in doing) to change the bearing as part of the overhaul or possibly having to split it after worrying that I may have scored something......... I think I know how much more hammering I'd be looking at doing.

Tough call MBM.

 

[MBMassey]

Not tough for me at all....no way will I split the tractor. It ran good before this happened, and actually after wasn't that bad when I limped it to the shop, they have all been changed once, and even if I had the block apart, nothing is to say that end cap will come out any easier....not worth it...not even a bit

 

[Mike476]

I'm with you on that one for sure, I wouldn't risk causing damage, if it works, don't fix it.......

 

[Brakeman]

There seems to be alot of the black silicone sealant around the bearing cap. If the worst comes to the worst the old blue flame adjustable (torch) to heat it up, may help break it loose. It's a thought, may be not a good one but as they say "what's the worst that could happen?" And go from there.

 

[MBMassey]

The worst that could happen with heat is it would possibly melt the rear seal and then I would be pooched and have to split the tractor...I tried some heat from a heat gun on high...but that didn't make any difference....I'm thinking they used something that was meant for a permanent application...and now that might be the case.

 

[MBMassey]

Well....I managed to get the cap off...I did find that after I scraped a bunch of gasket gunk off there were packing strips, but so hard I had to drill them out to get the cap loose, but it came off and today we did the whole engine....seems to run pretty good and no issues with those pistons, but I wouldn't want to over rev this thing too much...I think 1 floating valve and you might hear some bad noises again.

Thanks for the help guys...now who wants to change my clutch for me?