Oil & Fuel Massey 7475 starting issues.

[Hugh Rea]

Hi everyone, I have a 2008 MF 7475 (Perkins engine) and one of the plastic fuel line clips wore out and due to delivery times it was replaced with a rubber fuel line.

However now it doesn't want to start, turns over but doesn't want to start, cannot get any error codes on the Dot display but there is a CI.70 or C1.70 displays on the other screen which I have not noticed before.

Any help appreciated, thank you.

 

[Phillip w]

Boy I'm in over my, cause your tractor is new compared to what I'm used to. I'd start with the rubber fuel line. All the old tractors had steel lines to handle the pressure and to keep the fuel system sealed to prevent it from trying to suck air. The old 4440 John Deere had these little plastic "T" type deals in their fuel system. If you blew a "T" while it was running it would spray fuel everywhere and if you shut it down you where done. No start til you fixed it. So you limped to the house before shutting it down. And John Deere pretty much had a monopoly on the fix.
How about bleeding the the system after making the repair. Some tractors are easier to bleed and little more forgiving than others for a rookie mechanic. My allis Chalmers is a piece of cake. If you got a manual, it may tell you how to bleed the fuel system. Some tractors have a "little fuel shutoff valve" so you can shut the fuel off to say change the fuel filter.
The root of you problem is probably relatively simple, it is getting to the root of it. I've seen guys pull injectors, pumps etc when it was not necessary. Might change the fuel filter. What ever you do, I think I'd be really hesitant to try and pop it off with ether. As new as your tractor is, ether might train wreck you engine. Hope this helps someway

 

[Hugh Rea]

Boy I'm in over my, cause your tractor is new compared to what I'm used to. I'd start with the rubber fuel line. All the old tractors had steel lines to handle the pressure and to keep the fuel system sealed to prevent it from trying to suck air. The old 4440 John Deere had these little plastic "T" type deals in their fuel system. If you blew a "T" while it was running it would spray fuel everywhere and if you shut it down you where done. No start til you fixed it. So you limped to the house before shutting it down. And John Deere pretty much had a monopoly on the fix.
How about bleeding the the system after making the repair. Some tractors are easier to bleed and little more forgiving than others for a rookie mechanic. My allis Chalmers is a piece of cake. If you got a manual, it may tell you how to bleed the fuel system. Some tractors have a "little fuel shutoff valve" so you can shut the fuel off to say change the fuel filter.
The root of you problem is probably relatively simple, it is getting to the root of it. I've seen guys pull injectors, pumps etc when it was not necessary. Might change the fuel filter. What ever you do, I think I'd be really hesitant to try and pop it off with ether. As new as your tractor is, ether might train wreck you engine. Hope this helps someway

Thanks Phillip, sorry I didn't make it clear but after I installed the new line between the filter and pump I bled it to the pump, wound over and started in reasonable time however it is now that when the tractor is turned off that it doesn't want to start and it is every time it is turned off despite doing at least 50 hours of work.

I cracked the fuel line out of the pump this morning and the easy to get to one where the common rail starts to split and although fuel was there immediately (no indications of air) it did seem to start soon after but then shut it down and try to start straight away and no go

 

[Phillip w]

It almost sounds like you looking your losing your prime. Don't know about that rubber line, but I'd be getting real suspicious of that rubber line. Maybe as it sits that rubber line is leaking off and pulling in a little air some how.it would take much to loose your prime I don't think. Hopefully some of the guys that know a whole lot more about this new stuff than I do will chime in here.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I don't know where the" easy to get to line" is, but you have to check for air intrusion AT the inlet line that goes directly into the Hi Pressure pump.
AND.. if possible, run a clear line to it, to SEE any bubbles..

 

[Hugh Rea]

I don't know where the" easy to get to line" is, but you have to check for air intrusion AT the inlet line that goes directly into the Hi Pressure pump.
AND.. if possible, run a clear line to it, to SEE any bubbles..

Hi Pumpguy, I have cracked the inlet line to the fuel pump(the one that was replaced) and pumped fuel through with the primer/hand pump, bled the pump through the bled screw with the primer/hand pump, cracked the outlet line from the pump (steel line) and cranked the engine, then the easy to get to line I opened is where the common rail splits to go to the different cylinders and is the line going to the front cylinder and cranked the engine with fuel present at both those steel lines.

I could get to the lines going into the engine but having done close to 50 hours work surely any air would be gone and when it starts it runs fine, not rough/missing like I thought it would be if air is the problem?

 

[Hugh Rea]

So now that the silly season is over and have access to mechanics again it appears that the problem is the injectors.

There is an unacceptable amount of bypass fuel returning to the fuel pump and the thinking is that dirt must have gotten in the line when it blew off which is now affecting the injectors.