Massey Ferguson 135 Rebuild Journey (diesel)

[DaButcher]

I took my injectors to the local MF shop and had them pop tested and reset for 1/2 hr of shop labor, they also checked the one new one I needed because the mechanic there said sometimes out of the box the pressure can be set wrong.

Perfect. The picture you posted was just what I needed. I got them all out and the cyl. head is OFF!

 

[Rivendale]

I took my injectors to the local MF shop and had them pop tested and reset for 1/2 hr of shop labor, they also checked the one new one I needed because the mechanic there said sometimes out of the box the pressure can be set wrong.

Good tip. Where did you buy the new injector? I'd like to know in case I have to go that route.

I am going to take them in and get them worked. I know nothing about injectors and they had plenty of crud on them. That's all I know.

 

[DaButcher]

Got the injector from the same MF dealer that tested the injectors, they source from several places including Sparex and Agco. Everything I have bought for the tractor so for including the salvage crank has come from the same dealer and it's the same parts they use in there own shop. The main parts guy is very helpful and prices are close to what I could order them for.

Good tip. Where did you buy the new injector? I'd like to know in case I have to go that route.

I am going to take them in and get them worked. I know nothing about injectors and they had plenty of crud on them. That's all I know.

 

[DaButcher]

Another thing to be aware of is the upper gasket set I used was TISCO brand and was not complete. The soft washers for the injector return lines and washers for the oil line that goes from the head to the block were not included. Think there was more not in the kit, but that all I can think of right now. I also bought separately new rubber seals that go around the top of the injector to help keep crud out and new rubber inserts for the fuel lines in the filter base and incoming and out going lines of the injection pump.

 

[Rivendale]

If I drop the oil pan, can I change the connecting rods and pistons withOUT removing the crankshaft and having to re-time the engine?

I was really wanting to avoid even removing the oil pan, since it is part of the support structure, because of the working conditions that I stated in earlier posts. But the more I think about it, I just hate to be this far into it without at least knowing the condition of things...... I guess I will wait for an answer to this question and then I will decide.

 

[MasseyWV]

If I drop the oil pan, can I change the connecting rods and pistons withOUT removing the crankshaft and having to re-time the engine?

I was really wanting to avoid even removing the oil pan, since it is part of the support structure, because of the working conditions that I stated in earlier posts. But the more I think about it, I just hate to be this far into it without at least knowing the condition of things...... I guess I will wait for an answer to this question and then I will decide.

Absolutely, the pistons and connecting rods may be removed and reinstalled without removing the crankshaft. After all, it would be a shame to get the top end done, only to discover that the bottom end has problems.

Regarding your working conditions, I my youth, I've rebuilt 350 4 bolt main Chevy engines without even so much as a roof over my head. In your case, you can mitigate the problems posed by having a dirt floor by using 6 mil rolled plastic sheet and/or a sheet of 4x8 plywood to work on.

My suggestion would be to do it right, the first time.

 

[Rivendale]

You da man! That's my inspiration. I'm gonna do it.

If my thinking is correct, as long as I dont remove the crankshaft from this engine, I wont have to re-time it coorect?


Also, if I pull the pistons, I should probably just do a whole rebuild kit. Re sleeve the cylinders and replace the pistons. Or would I be okay with just new rings?

 

[bucktaker]

At this point just support the center of the tractor and drop the front end, remove the motor, set up a semi clean work bench /floor and do the whole thing.. A machine shop can resize the rods, check the crank and even reassemble it. Then you just put her back together.... Finished my mf35 last fall

 

[MasseyWV]

You da man! That's my inspiration. I'm gonna do it.

If my thinking is correct, as long as I dont remove the crankshaft from this engine, I wont have to re-time it coorect?


Also, if I pull the pistons, I should probably just do a whole rebuild kit. Re sleeve the cylinders and replace the pistons. Or would I be okay with just new rings?

No, if you don't remove the crankshaft the engine wouldn't need to be re-timed. Regardless, even if it needed done, re-timing the engine is a snap so it's really nothing to worry about. If the cylinders measured within specs, they could be lightly honed to break the glaze, then new rings installed. Assuming everything else is okay.

Honestly, if it were me I'd simply remove the engine and do a complete rebuild. One simply needs to remove the front end assembly, which is not difficult. Then you'd only need an engine hoist or some means of lifting the engine and pulling it away from the tractor.

 

[DaButcher]

Timing of my AD4.203, big brother to your engine