Massey Ferguson 231 won't move

[dsp1]

Hi,
I have a 99' Massey Ferguson 231 that just broke in a big way. I was moving some big pine logs that we had taken down in the front yard and was pushing one to be better able to pick it up when all of a sudden it stopped dead(I didn't see the large boulder it had jammed against. Before I could get the clutch in there was a noticeable POP sound and she was dead in the water. Won't move forward or backward in any gear or high or low range. Motor still runs beautifully, no strange noises or new leaks, but she's stuck where she's at unless I hook up a tow strap to the 560. Is there any kind of shaft or pin on these tractors that may be designed to shear in order to prevent any more serious damage? Any help or advice you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated. I just finished working on the 560 and not really looking forward to tearing something else completely apart.

Dan

 

[jimmyhouser]

Hi,
I have a 99' Massey Ferguson 231 that just broke in a big way. I was moving some big pine logs that we had taken down in the front yard and was pushing one to be better able to pick it up when all of a sudden it stopped dead(I didn't see the large boulder it had jammed against. Before I could get the clutch in there was a noticeable POP sound and she was dead in the water. Won't move forward or backward in any gear or high or low range. Motor still runs beautifully, no strange noises or new leaks, but she's stuck where she's at unless I hook up a tow strap to the 560. Is there any kind of shaft or pin on these tractors that may be designed to shear in order to prevent any more serious damage? Any help or advice you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated. I just finished working on the 560 and not really looking forward to tearing something else completely apart.

Dan

The shear coupler in the transmission is broken or you rung the clutch hub. Most likely the shear coupler.

Removing and replacing the shear coupler goes like this:

Put the position control lever all the way down and make sure your hitch is as low as it can go.

Remove everything from around the lift cover including the seat and 3ph lift arms.

Remove the two bolts holding a small metal cover that has a plug in it. Sitting in the seat, it's on the right and has a plug in it facing the left. There should be a stand pipe that comes out with it, or it needs to be pulled out.

Remove the bolts from around the top of the lift cover.

Do NOT remove the 4 big nuts!!!

Get a hook that goes in place of the seat bolts and remove the cover with an appropriate hoist.

You will see the coupler with a cotter pin in it. Remove the cotter pin. Mark the hole. Slide the coupler back onto the removable shaft.

Shift the transmission in high range, slide the removable shaft forward and remove it.

Remove the coupler and replace it with a new one.

Reverse procedure going back up, but, first put the draft and position control levers all the way back.

Be slow when putting the cover back on and do a "nose dive" with the lift cover as It get close to being mated back.

 

[dsp1]

Thank you for the detailed reply Jimmy, I appreciate it. I pulled off the hydraulic fill cap with the tractor running and looking at the gears it looks like the clutch is still engaging and disengaging perfectly fine so probably is the shear coupler you mention. Is it possible to access and replace the coupler through one of the cover plates on either side? Where I'm going to be working on the thing it would work out better if possible than pulling the top cover.

 

[jimmyhouser]

Thank you for the detailed reply Jimmy, I appreciate it. I pulled off the hydraulic fill cap with the tractor running and looking at the gears it looks like the clutch is still engaging and disengaging perfectly fine so probably is the shear coupler you mention. Is it possible to access and replace the coupler through one of the cover plates on either side? Where I'm going to be working on the thing it would work out better if possible than pulling the top cover.

If you don't pull the top cover, you can split it between the transmission and rear end housing. That requires a concrete floor and some jacks. Don't forget to wedge the front axle pivot. It takes me longer to do it this way. Also, you'll need to drain all the oil.

 

[dsp1]

I was able to go in through the PTO lever side plate and confirm that the coupler was sheared in half right in the middle of groove machined into it. It wasn't exactly easy, but I was able to get it out as well. I need to order some parts tomorrow and then I should be back in business fairly soon.

 

[jimmyhouser]

I was able to go in through the PTO lever side plate and confirm that the coupler was sheared in half right in the middle of groove machined into it. It wasn't exactly easy, but I was able to get it out as well. I need to order some parts tomorrow and then I should be back in business fairly soon.

Sweet! I'm glad you are going to be back up and running again. I'm surprised you got it out through that tiny hole. My method takes me 2 to 2&1/2 hours.

I reckon it was possible because you don't have that auxiliary pump in there. I'll try that on the next one I fix like yours.

Don't forget to silicone those bolt holes when you go back up!