Zephrant
Silver Member
Here is the response I got from them when I asked about my Subaru Legacy sedan:
Max Brake Controller????????????
- Thread starter Diamondpilot
- Start date
OP
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,326
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Very impressive. There was some thought and research that went into this response. I credit them for trying to look up the specifics for your vehicle and trying to find a way to make it work. Heck, maybe they will give you a deal on one and let you do the R&D and report back to them. Tell them you will take pictures and document the install for them to use in the future.
I have done this on a 2 items and have actually got them for free. Both items went into production and my data was able to help them develop a kit that was something the average consumer could install.
Chris
Raspy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 1,655
- Location
- Smith Valley, Nevada
- Tractor
- NH TC29DA, F250 Tremor, Jeep Rubicon
From what I can gather, the Maxbrake works very much like the Brakesmart. In other words, it measures line pressure and adjusts the brakes accordingly.
My Brakesmart has been in for almost 200,000 miles now and works very well. Better than the Jordan or other accelerometer setup before that. The Jordan worked OK when it was finally adjusted right, but was a hassle to get right with its cables and linkage under the dash. Then the controller failed and Jordan was out of business.
The only negatives I've heard about the hydraulic units are comments from some who don't know anything about them and want to dream up a problem with the installation at the master cylinder. NO modification of any brake line is required. You simply disconnect one end of one brake line at the master cylinder and screw in a brass tee. Then re-install the brake line. A slight bit of leaking bleeds the air as you go. That's it. For that little bit of work, you get a dramatic safety improvement in trailer braking. It's not a good idea to discourage someone from performing this simple procedure, as has been done here. Especially if that person has never even seen it.
If I ever have to get another unit it will probably be the Maxbrake. For sure it will be something that measures brake pressure. But, for now, the Brakesmart is the best I've used. m
My Brakesmart has been in for almost 200,000 miles now and works very well. Better than the Jordan or other accelerometer setup before that. The Jordan worked OK when it was finally adjusted right, but was a hassle to get right with its cables and linkage under the dash. Then the controller failed and Jordan was out of business.
The only negatives I've heard about the hydraulic units are comments from some who don't know anything about them and want to dream up a problem with the installation at the master cylinder. NO modification of any brake line is required. You simply disconnect one end of one brake line at the master cylinder and screw in a brass tee. Then re-install the brake line. A slight bit of leaking bleeds the air as you go. That's it. For that little bit of work, you get a dramatic safety improvement in trailer braking. It's not a good idea to discourage someone from performing this simple procedure, as has been done here. Especially if that person has never even seen it.
If I ever have to get another unit it will probably be the Maxbrake. For sure it will be something that measures brake pressure. But, for now, the Brakesmart is the best I've used. m
RoMad
Platinum Member
I have been reading this thread with interest as I am considering setting up my small truck with a brake controller for the few times I will be using it to pull my trailer with my small tractor or hay or maybe even a cow.
During my early career in the late 70's my wife and I travelled all over the country working. We had various travel trailers from 32' to 35' that we pulled and lived in while working.
I pulled them with a few different trucks, but they all had the same brake controller. I think it was a Kelsey Hays and it came with a tee that you put in the brake line at the master cylinder. It had a handle with a knob on it and you pushed it to the right to acitvate the trailer brakes manually. It also worked when you pushed the truck brake pedal down. You turned the knob to adjust the amount of power (electric) that went to the trailer brakes.
Most of the time I would just use the controller manually and let the trailer slow me down.
I thought they were all still made that way until reading this thread.
During my early career in the late 70's my wife and I travelled all over the country working. We had various travel trailers from 32' to 35' that we pulled and lived in while working.
I pulled them with a few different trucks, but they all had the same brake controller. I think it was a Kelsey Hays and it came with a tee that you put in the brake line at the master cylinder. It had a handle with a knob on it and you pushed it to the right to acitvate the trailer brakes manually. It also worked when you pushed the truck brake pedal down. You turned the knob to adjust the amount of power (electric) that went to the trailer brakes.
Most of the time I would just use the controller manually and let the trailer slow me down.
I thought they were all still made that way until reading this thread.
Raspy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 1,655
- Location
- Smith Valley, Nevada
- Tractor
- NH TC29DA, F250 Tremor, Jeep Rubicon
RoMad,
I'm with you on letting the trailer slow the truck.
With the units that are tied into the brake system, you can set the "initial brake constant" which sends a pre-determined current to the brakes when the brake lights go on. Then ramps up with more pedal pressure. I use this feature on mine to hold back on grades as needed. It's a great way to control speed and retain stability.
There is a 26% grade on one road I travel frequently. Sometimes towing my tractor, sometimes my Samurai, or other loaded trailers. It's always a bit un-nerving and can lead to smoking brakes. I love the mountains. Always an adventure.
I'm with you on letting the trailer slow the truck.
With the units that are tied into the brake system, you can set the "initial brake constant" which sends a pre-determined current to the brakes when the brake lights go on. Then ramps up with more pedal pressure. I use this feature on mine to hold back on grades as needed. It's a great way to control speed and retain stability.
There is a 26% grade on one road I travel frequently. Sometimes towing my tractor, sometimes my Samurai, or other loaded trailers. It's always a bit un-nerving and can lead to smoking brakes. I love the mountains. Always an adventure.
Zephrant
Silver Member
Well I got it installed last month, and it works great. I was unable to install the Tee right next to the master cylinder, but there was plenty of room at the other end of the tubes by the ABS controller. I snaked the sensor wire though the firewall and mounted the controller under the dash.
As far as I can tell, it works great. My only complaint is that the LCD screen is polarized such that it is not readable with my polarized sunglasses on.
Turns out that the 7" drum brakes I put on the trailer are not very strong. I'm not sure if I made any mistakes, but I can't get them to lock up on the gravel driveway, even when they are so tight they drag noticeably. I'm wondering if the pads need to seat in a little, as I didn't do anything to them other than mount them up. The brakes definitely work, and the controller says they are pulling 4-5A. I can feel them pull a little, but they don't pull hard.
As far as I can tell, it works great. My only complaint is that the LCD screen is polarized such that it is not readable with my polarized sunglasses on.
Turns out that the 7" drum brakes I put on the trailer are not very strong. I'm not sure if I made any mistakes, but I can't get them to lock up on the gravel driveway, even when they are so tight they drag noticeably. I'm wondering if the pads need to seat in a little, as I didn't do anything to them other than mount them up. The brakes definitely work, and the controller says they are pulling 4-5A. I can feel them pull a little, but they don't pull hard.
OP
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,326
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
7" brakes are way small but should be effective enough for your little trailer. What size tires are you running? Reason I ask is I once put larger tires on a customers trailer. He had 205/75/15 and I put 225/75/15 on per his request. The brakes lost aprox 30% of the power by going up just 2 sizes on the tires. It makes a big difference.
Also I see weak brakes all the time when I am working on trailers. If its a single axle you should have no smaller than 12 GA running from the pigtail to the brakes itself for both the Pos/Neg wires. If its a tandem you should have 12 GA. I have seen as small as 18 GA and it will again cut the braking by 30% or more. Same rules apply to the tow vehicle. Do not overlook or undersize the wiring.
Chris
Also I see weak brakes all the time when I am working on trailers. If its a single axle you should have no smaller than 12 GA running from the pigtail to the brakes itself for both the Pos/Neg wires. If its a tandem you should have 12 GA. I have seen as small as 18 GA and it will again cut the braking by 30% or more. Same rules apply to the tow vehicle. Do not overlook or undersize the wiring.
Chris
ModMech
Platinum Member
Diamond is correct, wire gauge plays a BIG role in electric brake effectiveness, LARGER IS BETTER!!!!!!!!
You want 14Ga for the brake feed for a single (12 is better), and 12Ga MIN for a tandem, 10Ga is prefered. If you have a tridem, then 10 or even 8Ga depending on the specific brakes.
Your GROUND WIRE, the white one, MUST BE LARGER than the next largest wire!
If your lights are all 16 Ga (common), but you have a 12Ga brake wire, you NEED nothing smaller than a 10Ga (one Ga larger than 12) and a ground with good clean contact on both the towing vehicle and trailer.
The worst wiring you are ever likely to find is in trailer wiring and lighting systems. Please, NEVER EVER use "scotch-lock" type connectors, they will cut the wire strands, effectively reducing the wire area. If you MUST make a temporary repair, use wire nuts filled with dielectric grease until you make it home and can properly butt-splice and seal the connection.
Your brakes may need to be adjusted and burnished in. Adjust the star wheel until you feel the slightest drag at some point while turning the wheel. If there are fingerprints, grease or oil on the drum faces (not friction surface) the magnet won't grip correctly, EVERYTHING needs to be clean in the drum with electric brakes!
You want 14Ga for the brake feed for a single (12 is better), and 12Ga MIN for a tandem, 10Ga is prefered. If you have a tridem, then 10 or even 8Ga depending on the specific brakes.
Your GROUND WIRE, the white one, MUST BE LARGER than the next largest wire!
If your lights are all 16 Ga (common), but you have a 12Ga brake wire, you NEED nothing smaller than a 10Ga (one Ga larger than 12) and a ground with good clean contact on both the towing vehicle and trailer.
The worst wiring you are ever likely to find is in trailer wiring and lighting systems. Please, NEVER EVER use "scotch-lock" type connectors, they will cut the wire strands, effectively reducing the wire area. If you MUST make a temporary repair, use wire nuts filled with dielectric grease until you make it home and can properly butt-splice and seal the connection.
Your brakes may need to be adjusted and burnished in. Adjust the star wheel until you feel the slightest drag at some point while turning the wheel. If there are fingerprints, grease or oil on the drum faces (not friction surface) the magnet won't grip correctly, EVERYTHING needs to be clean in the drum with electric brakes!
Last edited:
hosspuller
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2008
- Messages
- 1,784
- Location
- Piedmont Triad, NC
- Tractor
- Didn't intend to have a Deere fleet - it just happened 310C, F915,102, 5200 & 5065E
Zephrant: Did you have to round off the tee to install the Tee on the ABS unit? Looks like there wasn't enough clearance to turn the it...
Zephrant
Silver Member
If I was doing the trailer over, I'd do bigger brakes and buy new rims and tires. I was trying to save money, so sand-blasted the wheels and repainted them and used the existing tires. The 8" drums were the biggest I could use on 4 hole 12" wheels.
Not sure on the tire size, they look small though.
I did use 12 ga though the car, 10ga in the pigtail to the plug (ran out of 12ga), and 12ga from the tongue back to each wheel independently. My ground wire is probably 12 ga in the pigtail on the trailer. I've not taken it apart yet.
Lol- Yep, I am removing the scotch-lock connectors as I get to them. The entire trailer is held together with them. I solder/heat-shrink all my connections. Takes longer, but I know they are never going to corrode and go intermittent on me. I've got a little butane iron that I run around with, works great.
I did not have to round off the Tee on the ABS unit- It just barely fit, and snugged up at just the right angle to put the short tube on.
Not sure on the tire size, they look small though.
I did use 12 ga though the car, 10ga in the pigtail to the plug (ran out of 12ga), and 12ga from the tongue back to each wheel independently. My ground wire is probably 12 ga in the pigtail on the trailer. I've not taken it apart yet.
Lol- Yep, I am removing the scotch-lock connectors as I get to them. The entire trailer is held together with them. I solder/heat-shrink all my connections. Takes longer, but I know they are never going to corrode and go intermittent on me. I've got a little butane iron that I run around with, works great.
I did not have to round off the Tee on the ABS unit- It just barely fit, and snugged up at just the right angle to put the short tube on.