The house 38 by 46 with 2 ft overhangs. About a 3.5x12 pitch.
Metal roofing over aging shingles - Correct way to install?
- Thread starter beppington
- Start date
The house 38 by 46 with 2 ft overhangs. About a 3.5x12 pitch.
OP
beppington
Elite Member
Update: I got the same company that did the roof across the street to give me a firm quote, with 4 options:
1) Lay 30# felt (tar paper) directly on my old shingles & screw the new metal right to that: $11,199
1a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $13,065
2) Lay a bubble wrap layer on the old shingles, then 1x4 purlins, then screw the new metal to that: $13,865 (the bubble wrap has a thin foil layer on both sides, & he claims that this wrap in combination with my existing shingles & felt provides an additional R30 insulation barrier - Not sure I buy that, but ...)
2a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $15,731
All prices include new eave drip, rake trim & transition metal, 26 gauge roofing metal, new pipe flashings, new ridge cap, permit/ inspection(s), 40-year manufacturer's warranty, 5-year warranty on workmanship.
He did say that installing new metal over older, curling shingles will result in wavy metal, but ...
... Since my shingles aren't curling, just loss of gravel & becoming brittle with corners starting the break off, I'm thinking about proceeding with the cheapest quote: Keep old shingles & lay the felt & metal right on the shingles.
A galvanize metal roof on my house will finally make the house match my barn, which I've looked forward to since building the barn about 8 years ago
What do you think? Will I be sorry??
Crud, just remembered rtimgray said the old shingles/ felt will deteriorate the new screws ... Hmmmm.
Crud, so the surest thing would appear to be the most expensive, of course: Remove old shingles, new felt, install purlins, & screw the new metal to those. Figures
1) Lay 30# felt (tar paper) directly on my old shingles & screw the new metal right to that: $11,199
1a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $13,065
2) Lay a bubble wrap layer on the old shingles, then 1x4 purlins, then screw the new metal to that: $13,865 (the bubble wrap has a thin foil layer on both sides, & he claims that this wrap in combination with my existing shingles & felt provides an additional R30 insulation barrier - Not sure I buy that, but ...)
2a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $15,731
All prices include new eave drip, rake trim & transition metal, 26 gauge roofing metal, new pipe flashings, new ridge cap, permit/ inspection(s), 40-year manufacturer's warranty, 5-year warranty on workmanship.
He did say that installing new metal over older, curling shingles will result in wavy metal, but ...
... Since my shingles aren't curling, just loss of gravel & becoming brittle with corners starting the break off, I'm thinking about proceeding with the cheapest quote: Keep old shingles & lay the felt & metal right on the shingles.
A galvanize metal roof on my house will finally make the house match my barn, which I've looked forward to since building the barn about 8 years ago
What do you think? Will I be sorry??
Crud, just remembered rtimgray said the old shingles/ felt will deteriorate the new screws ... Hmmmm.
Crud, so the surest thing would appear to be the most expensive, of course: Remove old shingles, new felt, install purlins, & screw the new metal to those. Figures
tcreeley
Elite Member
I have had good luck with putting down 2x4 vertically and across with the metal roofing on that - all on top of old shingles. I did it to provide breathing to get rid of an ice dam I had every year with shingles. It works. I provide air entry and escape top, bottom and sides.
Good idea to raise the metal roof up it bit- decreases it sweating.
Good idea to raise the metal roof up it bit- decreases it sweating.
Update: I got the same company that did the roof across the street to give me a firm quote, with 4 options:
1) Lay 30# felt (tar paper) directly on my old shingles & screw the new metal right to that: $11,199
1a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $13,065
2) Lay a bubble wrap layer on the old shingles, then 1x4 purlins, then screw the new metal to that: $13,865 (the bubble wrap has a thin foil layer on both sides, & he claims that this wrap in combination with my existing shingles & felt provides an additional R30 insulation barrier - Not sure I buy that, but ...)
2a) Add $1,866 to the above to remove old shingles/ felt: $15,731
All prices include new eave drip, rake trim & transition metal, 26 gauge roofing metal, new pipe flashings, new ridge cap, permit/ inspection(s), 40-year manufacturer's warranty, 5-year warranty on workmanship.
He did say that installing new metal over older, curling shingles will result in wavy metal, but ...
... Since my shingles aren't curling, just loss of gravel & becoming brittle with corners starting the break off, I'm thinking about proceeding with the cheapest quote: Keep old shingles & lay the felt & metal right on the shingles.
A galvanize metal roof on my house will finally make the house match my barn, which I've looked forward to since building the barn about 8 years ago
What do you think? Will I be sorry??
Crud, just remembered rtimgray said the old shingles/ felt will deteriorate the new screws ... Hmmmm.
Crud, so the surest thing would appear to be the most expensive, of course: Remove old shingles, new felt, install purlins, & screw the new metal to those. Figures
I'm sure you could use stainless or ceramic coated fasteners that would resist corrosion better. I'm just relating the experience that I had. In the end, it's your place and your roof - I would just hate to have to do it again in 10 years.
We had a windstorm during the summer and I had to replace half of my roof, which was only 7 years old (shingles). As much as I hated to, i tore the whole thing off and replaced it. It was a good thing, because I found a few places where the plywood decking was bowing (nails were pulling out of rafters). Nothing severe, but it was super easy to fix since I was already there.
Good luck with whatever you choose. Take care.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Did you not have insurance? They should have paid for this and not you, after all thats what you have it for, to protect your investment from things nature related.
brin
Super Member
You might consider asking someone you trust , other than the Co. that gave you the quote, if the old shingles will curl under the metal roof from heat and then cause your roof to be wavy but also to leak....I hate to say...I still say for that much money...and a little extra to strip the old and have all new..I would go for the start from scratch...but that's just me...Good Luck.
Is that what I pay insurance premiums for? I thought it was just so that my agent could have a new boat!
Yes, I had/have insurance; yes, they paid for a portion of it: the lowest estimate from a contractor minus my deductable. I chose to purchase the materials and perform the work myself to minimize the cost. The end result was that basically the insurance payment covered the materials; I covered the labor. It was a wash monetarily, but I worked on it for the better portion of 5 days.
I spent 15 years in construction management and never would I approve putting a roof over a roof...rather loose the job then do it wrong. Shingles curl from drying out, which means they dry out if they are covered or not... on your roof or in the back of your truck, they will dry out and curl over time from heat cycles. Metal over an existing roof will also breed moisture/mold/rot...your pitch is not that bad, get yourself a gator shovel and park your bucket in the right spot, with a buddy to run buckets and a few family members to rake the strays you should be able to strip it in an afternoon. Just keep several tarps handy in case the weather acts up.
Bubble wrap and an existing roof is not R-30
Spring for stainless fasteners.
Bubble wrap and an existing roof is not R-30
Spring for stainless fasteners.
Smallplot
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2011
- Messages
- 337
- Location
- Pike County Illinois
- Tractor
- 1974 IH 1066, 1969 IH 756/FEL, and 2011 TYM T603 Cab/FEL
Have any of you with metal roof's checked with your local fire dept and asked there opinions of metal roofing materials? I know I am thinking about the worst but if there were a fire the roofing material can make several differences. Just a thought.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Just had my roof replaced. One of the larger roofing businesses in my town did the job and the end bill will cost me nothing out of pocket. These guys have it figured out so that the estimate minus your deductable ends up being the estimated price. So insurance said roof would cost 9k minust 1K deductable left me 8K which is what job cost. They were $0.40 some cents apart actually on what he quoted vs what i got paid.