MF 1140 Broken Frame
- Thread starter Nick79
- Start date
JerryG
Super Member
The best method would be to obtain a new frame.
If it is to be repaired, I would get a piece of flat steel the width of the frame and then v the frame and re-weld. Place the new steel over the weld, weld all around, then drill through the new steel. Install it using longer bolts in the repaired area.
BTW, I have never seen a frame broken like yours. I really believe that your frame had a problem before it was ever used on your tractor.
If it is to be repaired, I would get a piece of flat steel the width of the frame and then v the frame and re-weld. Place the new steel over the weld, weld all around, then drill through the new steel. Install it using longer bolts in the repaired area.
BTW, I have never seen a frame broken like yours. I really believe that your frame had a problem before it was ever used on your tractor.
PineRidge
Super Member
Looking at the frame and where it broke I don't think there is any other way to repair it correctly other than the proceeder that Jerry laid out for you. The new steel will beef up the existing frame and drilling through the new stock will take the majority of the load off the old stress point. Good luck with the repair.
5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
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- 24,685
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- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Jerry:
I have repaired broken truck frames as well as extended them before. Around here, we always "fish plate" the frame.
What you do is cut a piece of steel the same Gage (thickness) of the original frame, bevel the ends and then after veeing the original frame and welding it and then grinding the weld flush, you overlay the fish plate on the frame and weld it around the perimeter. After that, you take a rosebud and heat the frame as well as the fish plate cherry red and then allow it to cool naturally.
Problem with welding a frame like the one in the picture is if you don't stress relieve it after welding, the internal stress produced by the localized heat of the weld will cause the frame to fail at the weld again.
I have repaired broken truck frames as well as extended them before. Around here, we always "fish plate" the frame.
What you do is cut a piece of steel the same Gage (thickness) of the original frame, bevel the ends and then after veeing the original frame and welding it and then grinding the weld flush, you overlay the fish plate on the frame and weld it around the perimeter. After that, you take a rosebud and heat the frame as well as the fish plate cherry red and then allow it to cool naturally.
Problem with welding a frame like the one in the picture is if you don't stress relieve it after welding, the internal stress produced by the localized heat of the weld will cause the frame to fail at the weld again.
Deerlope
Veteran Member
Jerry has a good idea but that frame is probably made, drilled, and then heat treated to a special hardness or flexablity. Doing a lot of welding will certanly change that. How ever the frame is no good like it is. might just be something that you will want to checkout. My guess is that when it was made that the heat treating process went a-miss and it got out of the fractory by mistake. I would be willing to bet that you are not the only one that is having frame problems.
JerryG
Super Member
Yes Daryl,
On a truck frame that would be the correct procedure. What I don't know for sure is what type of steel that the tractor frame is. I doubt that this tractor frame is the same grade of steel that a truck frame is. That is why I suggested the procedure that I did here.
On a truck frame that would be the correct procedure. What I don't know for sure is what type of steel that the tractor frame is. I doubt that this tractor frame is the same grade of steel that a truck frame is. That is why I suggested the procedure that I did here.
PineRidge
Super Member
For at least 50 years, old time welders have advised new welders to reheat metal after the structure has been completely welded. They tell us that the purpose of reheating the welded cluster to dull red is to stress relieve the weld area.
The truth is that open air, manual application of oxyacetylene flame to a weld cluster is likely to do more damage to the structure than to simply leave it alone after welding.
This information was supplied by The Welders Handbook. A complete guide to MIG, TIG, Arc & Oxyacetylene welding.
The truth is that open air, manual application of oxyacetylene flame to a weld cluster is likely to do more damage to the structure than to simply leave it alone after welding.
This information was supplied by The Welders Handbook. A complete guide to MIG, TIG, Arc & Oxyacetylene welding.
mrcaptainbob
Platinum Member
Since both side members cracked at the same locations....across the rear-most bolts, it appears that there's not enough 'meat' between bolthole edge and edge of metal. That piece apparently is under a tremendous tension load at that point. I would suggest you V that break, weld it nicely, grind smooth the mounting surface, and add a flange to the top and bottom. In effect, you'd be building an I-beam type piece. Laying the flange to the inside or outside would also work. If that flange was maybe 1/2 or 3/4 inch would be perfect for it. Top and bottom. Make sure of clearance to engine block, steering....And I'd also recommend you make a flange long enough to span across all those bolt holes and would be a good two inches past...
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mrcaptainbob
Platinum Member
Incidentally, by 1/2 or 3/4 inch..I meant wide. Would be good if you could use the same gage (minimum) as the side member.
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