MF-135 oil pressure fluctuations

[Farmwithjunk]

I thought there was something goofy about that IT procedure. Don't know where IT gets the stuff it prints. I wonder if IT just cuts and pastes stuff out of service manuals without considering if it's the most logical/economical procedure.

I guess the moral here is go with the experienced voice and don't believe everything you read. Your method is far simpler and gives me confidence that I can giterdone. Thanks again.

One of the main selling points on the 100 series Massey's is their ease of maintenance and repair. Various components can be worked on without totally dismantling the tractor. Most of the Massey Ferguson manuals have been updated and supliments issued over the years that show ways of initiating repairs without complicated and lengthy dis-assembly. What info is contained in the I&T manuals on 100 series MF's is "old news" for the most part. Their manuals have been left unchanged since the very first ones I've ever had my hands on.

I&T Manuals get the lions share of their info from manufacturers tech manuals. But SOMEHOW along the way, the manage to muddy up the process just about every time. In just about every conceivable repair process listed, I&T calls for more steps and USUALLY they list the same work time. Not sure how that can be.

I&T also has an alarming habit of mis-stating technical specifications from time to time. EBAY has allowed me to collect technical service manuals from Massey Ferguson and Perkins Diesel. They ALWAYS give the same specs. I've found contradictory information in the I&T manuals often enough that I just don't trust them any longer. I've got a few "inspirational ideas" from I&T, but I never look there as a singular source of information.

Since I've decided that my MF150 is a "lifer", I searched EBAY until I found Massey's 150 OWNERS MANUAL's, both ORIGINAL and updated versions, Parts manuals w/updated supliments, Service manual, TECH service manual (dealer copy), A MF tech manual strictly on Perkins diesels, A Perkins tech service manual, and a tech manual on the CAV injector pump. (Perkins was once a division of Massey Ferguson) Also I have MF flat rate labor manual. ALL the information contained in these manuals jive with each other. They were all published by the folks who designed and built the tractor and/or its components. I trust them before I trust an outside source.

 

[flusher]

Since I've decided that my MF150 is a "lifer", I searched EBAY until I found Massey's 150 OWNERS MANUAL's, both ORIGINAL and updated versions, Parts manuals w/updated supliments, Service manual, TECH service manual (dealer copy), A MF tech manual strictly on Perkins diesels, A Perkins tech service manual, and a tech manual on the CAV injector pump. (Perkins was once a division of Massey Ferguson) Also I have MF flat rate labor manual. ALL the information contained in these manuals jive with each other. They were all published by the folks who designed and built the tractor and/or its components. I trust them before I trust an outside source.

FWJ: In addition to that 135 I&T manual, I have the MF-135/150 service manual and parts manual from Jensales. Both are about an inch thick and both are unauthorized manuals (not authorized by MF or MH). You'd think that with all those pages there would be a section on servicing the oil pump. Wrong. Nothing, nada, on the oil system.

Looks like I'll have to get better manuals like you have.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

FWJ: In addition to that 135 I&T manual, I have the MF-135/150 service manual and parts manual from Jensales. Both are about an inch thick and both are unauthorized manuals (not authorized by MF or MH). You'd think that with all those pages there would be a section on servicing the oil pump. Wrong. Nothing, nada, on the oil system.

Looks like I'll have to get better manuals like you have.

Even in my 2" thick MF service manual, the "service recomendation" for Perkins oil pump is "replace entire assembly" if and when there's issues. The Perkins tech manual has a more detailed explaination, but still says to leave relief alone. They urge staying with factory pre-set preload.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks SG. Do you mean that the two front bolts are on the oil pan and are hard to get to because of the front axle and related parts?

Yes.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. On the I&T for ford N's ( fo-4 ) and the NAA ( fo-19 ) there are at least 2 places that have incorrect info on points gap, and some hyd pump info.

also the R&R for the steering gear and hydro pump on the 8n is.. well.. overly drawn out.. you can skip about 1/4 of it and run into no extra problems..

soundguy

I&T Manuals get the lions share of their info from manufacturers tech manuals. But SOMEHOW along the way, the manage to muddy up the process just about every time. In just about every conceivable repair process listed, I&T calls for more steps and USUALLY they list the same work time. Not sure how that can be.

I&T also has an alarming habit of mis-stating technical specifications from time to time. EBAY has allowed me to collect technical service manuals from Massey Ferguson and Perkins Diesel. They ALWAYS give the same specs. I've found contradictory information in the I&T manuals often enough that I just don't trust them any longer. I've got a few "inspirational ideas" from I&T, but I never look there as a singular source of information..

 

[flusher]

I've pulled several oil pans on 135's and 150's to replace oil pan gaskets. I did my own 150, 2 summers past. (Those pesky old "rope" pan gaskets) It's not as complicated as it looks.

Un-bolt (screws) the hood assembly from the dash on 150's. Drive wooden wedges between front axle and axle bolster to eliminate front axle pivot. Put a jack under the bellhousing to support the weight of the tractor ever-so-slightly lift the front end so weight is taken off the front wheels. Unbolt the oil pan from front axle bolster, from the bellhousing, then from the engine block. Drop pan. Reverse proceedure to re-install.

Like this(on both sides)?

Does that bolt just behind/below the fan belt in the photo have to be removed to drop the oil pan? It looks like that bolt and another one on the other side are holding the front axle/radiator assembly to the engine block.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Does that bolt just behind/below the fan belt in the photo have to be removed to drop the oil pan? It looks like that bolt and another one on the other side are holding the front axle/radiator assembly to the engine block.

That's the way to wedge the axle on a 135. On the 150, it works better to wedge on TOP of the axle. (Different bolster) Make sure they're in tight.

Both bolts on each side need to come out. (One through front of pan, other through front of block) I suppose the one through the BLOCK could stay if loosened enough, but I always remove it. Leave it tight and the pan is still "clamped" by the bolster. I always remove those bolts and pry the axle/bolster away from the block/pan far enough to insert a small piece of 3/4" plywood between the block and the bolster as a spacer. You'll need that space to help position the pan when it's time to re-install.

Also, don't miss 2 bolts that go straight UP through the front pan and into the block. They're hidden real well in a pair of recessed holes. I always remove them FIRST so I don't need to get underneath the pan once all the remaining bolts are out. About the only way to see them is to get flat on your back under the front of the engine and look straight up.

When you finally unbolt the pan, make certain you have a floor jack securely under it. IT IS H.E.A.V.Y.

 

[flusher]

That's the way to wedge the axle on a 135. On the 150, it works better to wedge on TOP of the axle. (Different bolster) Make sure they're in tight.

Both bolts on each side need to come out. (One through front of pan, other through front of block) I suppose the one through the BLOCK could stay if loosened enough, but I always remove it. Leave it tight and the pan is still "clamped" by the bolster. I always remove those bolts and pry the axle/bolster away from the block/pan far enough to insert a small piece of 3/4" plywood between the block and the bolster as a spacer. You'll need that space to help position the pan when it's time to re-install.

Also, don't miss 2 bolts that go straight UP through the front pan and into the block. They're hidden real well in a pair of recessed holes. I always remove them FIRST so I don't need to get underneath the pan once all the remaining bolts are out. About the only way to see them is to get flat on your back under the front of the engine and look straight up.

When you finally unbolt the pan, make certain you have a floor jack securely under it. IT IS H.E.A.V.Y.

FWJ: thanks for the tips.

I suppose it's a good idea to rig up some sort of cradle that attaches to the pad on the floor jack so the oil pan doesn't fall off the jack when moving it away from the tractor.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Yep. The BEST way to handle that big ol' heavy cast iron oil pan is with a transmission jack. Short of that, a floor jack and two pairs of hands is good. I've done a few by my lonesome. They weren't a lot of fun, especially when you try to carefully guide it back into the exact spot it goes on re-installing. Rear gaskets are a booger to get straight and keep 'em that way.

 

[flusher]

Yep. The BEST way to handle that big ol' heavy cast iron oil pan is with a transmission jack. Short of that, a floor jack and two pairs of hands is good. I've done a few by my lonesome. They weren't a lot of fun, especially when you try to carefully guide it back into the exact spot it goes on re-installing. Rear gaskets are a booger to get straight and keep 'em that way.

Yep, the gaskets are a concern.

I need to locate that recent TBN thread in which you recommended using the modern oil pan gaskets on the 135 in place of the older style.