Sickle Bar MF 31 sickle bar mower (need wobble crank)

[flusher]

Thx GW I've been digging thru the MF31 parts books on Agco. It's good help.

I'd sure like to know if a MF 41 crank fits the MF 31.







Hey Flusher, thanks very much for the dimensions.
If you can chase that thing down again, can you measure the shaft length from the flange? (ooops see EDIT below) I'm pretty sure I will have to weld a keyed shaft onto the stub, need to know how long it is. KiotiTom, I'd be interested if you find your 41 to be same as Flusher's 31.

*************
EDIT ---- With regard to Barry1's info (below) can you get me the distance from the flange to the belt center?

Here are a few more photos:



The shaft length from the cast iron housing to the end of the shaft is about 2-3/8 inches. Hope this helps.

 

[Barry 1]

Here are a couple of pictures of the crank out of my MF31. The keyway cracked,and the threads stripped.

 

[Sodo]

Flusher thanks for the dimension. Since I don't think I can re-create the tapered shaft and the nut, maybe rather than shaft length I need the dimension from the flange to the center of the belt. I don't know yet how I can do this, as a standard keyway won't survive bi-directional cyclic loading. Maybe I can weld on a tapered shaft end and the flange from a flywheel. And bolt a sheave to the flange. Anyway it's getting to be a lot more work to use this thing.

Barry your photo shows it all, that a keyway alone is not strong enough for this, it needs the taper (and tight too). Welding a "simple keyway" stub onto the crank can't possibly work, unless I just run it slow and easy, but that's no way to 'fix' an implement. I need to find a replacement crank & sheave (and I suppose you do too?).

 

[flusher]

Flusher thanks for the dimension. Since I don't think I can re-create the tapered shaft and the nut, maybe rather than shaft length I need the dimension from the flange to the center of the belt. I don't know yet how I can do this, as a standard keyway won't survive bi-directional cyclic loading. Maybe I can weld on a tapered shaft end and the flange from a flywheel. And bolt a sheave to the flange. Anyway it's getting to be a lot more work to use this thing.

Barry your photo shows it all, that a keyway alone is not strong enough for this, it needs the taper (and tight too). Welding a "simple keyway" stub onto the crank can't possibly work, unless I just run it slow and easy, but that's no way to 'fix' an implement. I need to find a replacement crank & sheave (and I suppose you do too?).

0.25" + 0.625/2 = 0.56" (flange to center of belt).

 

[Sodo]

Ok belt edge is 1/4" from the flange. thx!!