MF TEA low compression
- Thread starter MikeyMonster
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OP
MikeyMonster
New member
I found this link which is good
http://www.gralleklubben.se/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/GrålleManual.pdf
Interestingly they make mention on the rebuild section of the diesel engine that the pistons cant be removed with the engine in place as the piston head wont fit past the "crankshaft web" and the big end wont fit up the sleeve and out the top so to remove them you must lower the whole crankshaft out. They dont mention this point for the petrol version so im hoping that just isnt an omission by them, in case i do need to remove No2 Piston
http://www.gralleklubben.se/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/GrålleManual.pdf
Interestingly they make mention on the rebuild section of the diesel engine that the pistons cant be removed with the engine in place as the piston head wont fit past the "crankshaft web" and the big end wont fit up the sleeve and out the top so to remove them you must lower the whole crankshaft out. They dont mention this point for the petrol version so im hoping that just isnt an omission by them, in case i do need to remove No2 Piston
OP
MikeyMonster
New member
Thanks for that, ive just seen it, im still learning my way around this site
Jerry/MT
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
To the OP: It's a Harry Ferguson tractor not a Massey Ferguson and it should have a Standard Motors engine as it is a TEA model.
Worn valve guides will cause smoking at high manifold vacuum (idle and low rpm) but do not have any effect of compression pressure. The OP's problem appears to be a burned or misadjusted valve.
A blown head gasket would most likely have two adjacent cylinders with low pressure.
OP
MikeyMonster
New member
Harry Ferguson, right got it (i think), thats before they merged with Massey. Thanks i wont forget that from now on.
I couldnt resist and ive taken the head off. A couple of tips for anyone doing this in the future including myself. Remove the bonnet and undo the fan belt and water pump and govenor clip, its all very easy just a few bolts. The push-rods can come out before or after lifting the head. Ive just left mine in. It looks as though they work by sitting in a cup that rides up and down from the crankshaft.
I lifted the head off by myself, heavy but not excessively- approximately 40kg i would guess.
Seems like you folks suspected diagnosis could be right. The headgasket looks fine, no cracking in the liners, the bores look fine with no scratches and all the piston domes have hard carbon on them, not excessive and not that soft stuff which indicates issues.
There is a tiny graze on top of the number one piston, maybe something went through the air intake, i cant even feel it with my fingers and its only piston number 2 with low compression and that looks fine. Im suspecting it will be something to do with the cylinder two valves now as well. Ive filled the cylinders up with diesel so i can give them a polish and all of them are holding the diesel levels constant so if piston 2 had bad rings i would expect that cylinders level to drop.
The engine is very dirty so im going to do my best to clean that all up, gunk in lots of places.
The way to tell which cylinder is what in those photos of the block is to look at the alternator which is near the front.
The head is now on the table at home and when i get back early next week i will update on what i find. Any tips about how to inspect a cylinder head, valves would be appreciated as this is my first one (as ive clearly displayed!)
I couldnt resist and ive taken the head off. A couple of tips for anyone doing this in the future including myself. Remove the bonnet and undo the fan belt and water pump and govenor clip, its all very easy just a few bolts. The push-rods can come out before or after lifting the head. Ive just left mine in. It looks as though they work by sitting in a cup that rides up and down from the crankshaft.
I lifted the head off by myself, heavy but not excessively- approximately 40kg i would guess.
Seems like you folks suspected diagnosis could be right. The headgasket looks fine, no cracking in the liners, the bores look fine with no scratches and all the piston domes have hard carbon on them, not excessive and not that soft stuff which indicates issues.
There is a tiny graze on top of the number one piston, maybe something went through the air intake, i cant even feel it with my fingers and its only piston number 2 with low compression and that looks fine. Im suspecting it will be something to do with the cylinder two valves now as well. Ive filled the cylinders up with diesel so i can give them a polish and all of them are holding the diesel levels constant so if piston 2 had bad rings i would expect that cylinders level to drop.
The engine is very dirty so im going to do my best to clean that all up, gunk in lots of places.
The way to tell which cylinder is what in those photos of the block is to look at the alternator which is near the front.
The head is now on the table at home and when i get back early next week i will update on what i find. Any tips about how to inspect a cylinder head, valves would be appreciated as this is my first one (as ive clearly displayed!)
OP
MikeyMonster
New member
Thanks yes im thinking they probably do come up too as its only the diesel they wrote up that issue about and they were quite pointedly about it.
Heres the pushrod chamber where they sit in the cups(which are removable) for anyone who hasnt seem them, heaps of gunk around this area.
Quebecguy
Gold Member
A simple way to check valve seating, now that you have the head off, is to turn it upside down (with the spark plugs in place) and fill the combustion chambers with gasoline. If you get anything more than a seepage (i.e. a dribble) past any valve you know you have a problem.
banjodunn
Veteran Member
G'day Mikey first a note of caution DO NOT turn the engine over without something holding the liners down I normally have a large washer with a short bolt down into the head bolt hole I say this because it is easy for the liners to lift up and destroy the gaskets on the bottom of the liner and you will get water leaking into the sump, secondly as quebecguy said use some petrol and I pour it carefully in the intake and exh port with the head sitting on it's side and look for leakage past the valves. Seeing you have the head off any way I would give it a valve grind and check for straightness. Good luck with it and plenty of help here don't be afraid to ask a question.
Jon
Jon