MF135 clutch adjustment or replace?

[Nevermore Farms]

Good morning! I’ve got a mf135 diesel that had a very hard to actuate clutch on day one but I lived through it for the last 7 years always planning on eventually replacing it. The clutch actuates properly but requires about all of my body weight to the pedal to operate. It also makes it hard to stop the pto and engage machinery without shutting the tractor down. Before I split the tractor I had a thought that perhaps there was an internal adjustment I might be unaware of that could ease this pressure and give me a few more years of service-thanks for any help.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

You need to check if you have a way to grease a throw out bearing. Some tractors had a grease fitting on it. Some had a grease gun hose with a fitting in the end of it, hanging down to bottom of bell housing. Also, the snout that sticks out of front of transmission, the throw out bearing rides on that snout. It needs oil or lube on it. If that gets dry and crusty, makes a clutch hard to push. I have seen that break the fork that works the throw out bearing.

 

[Nevermore Farms]

I’ll take a look, don’t recall that hanging out there!

 

[murphy1244]

I had the same problem. Yes, you need a new clutch maybe more.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I’ll take a look, don’t recall that hanging out there!

They don't hang out. It's up inside a little bit.

 

[redman135]

If you split the tractor, a tip to put it back togather (3 and 4 sp g/box NOT multipower) egage the pto and rotate the pto by spanner to help line up the clutch. Saves a lot of blue air.
Good Luck.

 

[Nevermore Farms]

Thanks!

 

[Bentrim]

The clutch may have the wrong springs or too many springs. The same clutch is used on various models and some of them use stronger springs and/or more springs.
Unless the bottom plate was left of and the housing got dirt, grass, or rodents in it usually they don't get stiff to operate.
The straight down lever to operate the clutch was harder to operate than a push forward style.

The belleville spring should have a red paint mark on it. Larger tractors 165 used a blue paint mark.
Coil springs should be Yellow with 11 1/2 coils 80-88 pounds @ 1 2/2, 165 uses Lavender with 10 coils 111-123 pounds @1 1/2.

Using a web ordered "general, fits all" clutch may get you the wrong one.

 

[ScipioUSA]

Good morning! I’ve got a mf135 diesel that had a very hard to actuate clutch on day one but I lived through it for the last 7 years always planning on eventually replacing it. The clutch actuates properly but requires about all of my body weight to the pedal to operate. It also makes it hard to stop the pto and engage machinery without shutting the tractor down. Before I split the tractor I had a thought that perhaps there was an internal adjustment I might be unaware of that could ease this pressure and give me a few more years of service-thanks for any help.

Have you adjusted your clutch pedal?

There should be a procedure in your owners manual if you have one. But there should be a bit of free play (3/4"?) when you push the pedal down. Thats the travel before your throwout bearing hits the fingers. I would see if you have the right adjustment there first.

You can also crawl under your tractor, and take the four bolts off the inspection plate (I think they are 15/16") and look at your clutch there. You can take a look to see what color and how many springs you have like Bentrim mentioned.

 

[Sportsman762]

Bentram and scipiousa are spot on. I know that the 9 spring clutch on my Massey is a real sob to depress. A medium duty 6 spring will be much easier to depress.