MF35 brake linings 'how-to"

[jclaudii]

I am new here to the forums, but I have searched hi and low on the internet for some "how-to" info on this tractor and have come up short on a few things. At the moment I have no brakes on this tractor, I am fortunate to have level land, but for safety for others how may use it I need to get these fixed. I have a brake lining repair kit along with inner seals for the tractor, but I can not find instructions on how to do this.

I am guessing I will drill out the rivets of the old linings, clean everything up, and put the new linings and copper/brass rivets on and use a punch and anvil/vise as a backstop to spread the rivets. My question is, is this the correct way to redo the linings on my tractor?

Another question is, will my 2.5 ton floor jack be enough to lift one tire off the ground so I can block it up? NO weights on tire, but it has water it in.

I'll get over to the introduction board soon, but thanks for the info!

 

[Jerry/MT]

I am new here to the forums, but I have searched hi and low on the internet for some "how-to" info on this tractor and have come up short on a few things. At the moment I have no brakes on this tractor, I am fortunate to have level land, but for safety for others how may use it I need to get these fixed. I have a brake lining repair kit along with inner seals for the tractor, but I can not find instructions on how to do this.

I am guessing I will drill out the rivets of the old linings, clean everything up, and put the new linings and copper/brass rivets on and use a punch and anvil/vise as a backstop to spread the rivets. My question is, is this the correct way to redo the linings on my tractor?

Another question is, will my 2.5 ton floor jack be enough to lift one tire off the ground so I can block it up? NO weights on tire, but it has water it in.

I'll get over to the introduction board soon, but thanks for the info!

Go to yesterday's tractors website. You can probably get bonded brake lining that you just change out from their parts people. there are peopleon the assey ferguson forum who can help you out.

 

[MasseyWV]

If it were me, I wouldn't drive it at all until the brakes are fixed, for safety's sake.

As for your question about the jack, it depends. If you have a jack that is truly capable of lifting 2.5 tons (5000 pounds) it should be fine. However, many China-made jacks may state 2.5 tons but can only lift a fraction of that amount. Also, after jacking the tractor up, ensure that you either use heavy-duty jack stands, or wood cribbing, and not just the jack to support the tractor while you have the wheel off.

Remember that loaded tractor tires are extremely heavy, so it's a good idea to either have help, or use something like a chain or engine hoist to help remove them from the tractor.

 

[Loudo]

I am new here to the forums, but I have searched hi and low on the internet for some "how-to" info on this tractor and have come up short on a few things. At the moment I have no brakes on this tractor, I am fortunate to have level land, but for safety for others how may use it I need to get these fixed. I have a brake lining repair kit along with inner seals for the tractor, but I can not find instructions on how to do this.

I am guessing I will drill out the rivets of the old linings, clean everything up, and put the new linings and copper/brass rivets on and use a punch and anvil/vise as a backstop to spread the rivets. My question is, is this the correct way to redo the linings on my tractor?

Another question is, will my 2.5 ton floor jack be enough to lift one tire off the ground so I can block it up? NO weights on tire, but it has water it in.

I'll get over to the introduction board soon, but thanks for the info!

Sir, I would not use the tractor until you fix the brakes either. Firstly, as jerry said make sure you use heavy duty jack stands,or timber cribbing to support the tractor.Remember safety first. re the lining kit, when i was an apprentice with MF that was how we were taught to replace the brake linings but we had a brake riveting tool that clamped in the vise. If you can get bonded brake shoes so much the better and a lot easier,but as you have the kit why not use it? It will take you more time to do. Also make sure you check the brake adjuster is working properly,take it apart clean and lubricate with never seize or some other product like that.Do not over lube the adjuster though. Check the brake shoe retaining springs also. The inner seals you refer to, are they axle seals? I hope this helps you out .Kerry.

 

[jclaudii]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, i really appreciate it.

This was my dads tractor before he passed away and I just want to fix it up and use it for field mowing and other small farm things. Family got a new Kubota7040 to do farm work with but now the old tractors can come out of service for a while and get some repairs and tlc.

yesterdaytractor did have both linings for 32 and complete shoes for 65..i already have the lining kit so i hate to spend twice as much and be stuck with the lining kit as my dad bought it before he passed away.

Looks like i need to find one of these tools to do rivets...hope i can find one to borrow.
Massey Brakes RIVET_TOOL Brake Rivet Tool or
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool-Supply-Relining-Impact/dp/B005VR9SV4/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1334935656&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: Aircraft Tool Supply Brake Relining Tool (Impact): Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

Lastly, does anyone have a blowup diagram of this rear axle area of the tractor? I'm sure my dad has a manual somewhere, but it is like trying to find a needle in a 60x40 shop.

 

[Loudo]

Sir, here is a link for the 35 rear brakes, hope this helps K . http://www.sparexusa.com/Catalogs/MF/Brakes.pdfs

 

[banjodunn]

G'day you do not need to buy a riveting tool if you are only going to do one set of shoes, find a bolt or bit of round stock that fits the head of the rivet and weld it onto something nice and heavy ( bit of rail line if you have it ), then insert ALL of your rivets into the shoe and run some masking/packing tape over the heads of the rivets so they can't fall out and starting at the middle sit the rivet head on the bolt/pin and peen over with a ball pein hammer.
Please remember when removing/cleaning the old linings/shoes that they will contain asbestos so please use a mask so as not to inhale any dust.
Hope this helps and good luck


Jon

 

[jclaudii]

Thanks a ton about the tip for the Asbestos...I would have totally forgot! I Was planning on doing something similar to what you described, but a ball pein hammer should do the trick, not need for a shallow tapered punch or anything?

 

[banjodunn]

G'day no need for a tapered punch you can get to all the rivets with a med size hammer and the peen up nice just don't overdo it or you may crack the lining.


Jon

 

[flusher]

I am new here to the forums, but I have searched hi and low on the internet for some "how-to" info on this tractor and have come up short on a few things. At the moment I have no brakes on this tractor, I am fortunate to have level land, but for safety for others how may use it I need to get these fixed. I have a brake lining repair kit along with inner seals for the tractor, but I can not find instructions on how to do this.

I am guessing I will drill out the rivets of the old linings, clean everything up, and put the new linings and copper/brass rivets on and use a punch and anvil/vise as a backstop to spread the rivets. My question is, is this the correct way to redo the linings on my tractor?

Another question is, will my 2.5 ton floor jack be enough to lift one tire off the ground so I can block it up? NO weights on tire, but it has water it in.

I'll get over to the introduction board soon, but thanks for the info!

I recently relined the brakes (band type) on my 1945 Oliver 60 row crop tractor. Used brake rivets and lining material from McMaster Carr. Got a flat bottom counterbore to drill the linings for the rivets and used a centering punch to flatten the rivets.

I use a 2-ton floor jack to lift the rear of my 1964 MF135 diesel that has super wide filled rear tires one tire at a time. Even with the rears filled, the 135 weighs less than 6000 lb so assuming roughly equal load on the 4 wheels, the jack only has to handle about 1500 lb.