Loader Mounting a 210 loader on a John Deere 2210

[jbeall]

I did not realise loader was not at a JD dealer. Looks like you found a great deal on the extra parts.
Where did you get the freight quote? If you are not in a hurry, you might be able to do better. You could ask for bids from Uship.com Or many Forums have a hauling section where you can post your needs or find posts from someone with an empty trailer looking for gas money that's already passing near point A (where the loader is) and point B (your location) Pirate4x4.com is one.
From the pictures you posted, I see no worries.

I didn't see this post until just now--after I've made payment for everything. So it's too late to save money on the shipping. But thanks for the tips! I will keep those in mind.

I decided I had to let this one go because I couldn't afford the loader, the freight, and the mounting hardware. I let the seller know that it would be a great deal for anybody who could pick it up, but it wasn't for me unless the price was dropped all the way down to $1550 for the loader. I could then pick up the freight and I would store it in my barn until I could afford the extra $450 in mounting hardware (probably February).

I didn't think he would let it go for that price. But, guess what? He went for it.

How could I say no to that? Freight will cost me about $300. So that's $1850 for the loader. Where else are you going to get a front end loader for $1850? Once I add in another $450 for the mounting hardware, I'll have $2300 in the deal. As a reminder, the cheapest I was able to find for a new 200CX loader, once you added in sales tax, was $3600. So this is a $1300 savings.

I think I did alright on the price, what do you think?

Of course, it's not shipped yet, so we'll see if we get any hangups at the shipping stage. I've already paid for it, and paid for the freight, though.

-Josh

 

[jbeall]

Well, I finally got the mounting hardware and put it on. And JD raised the price on the hardware by $160 over the last two months. What a disappointment that discovery was!

There was some confusion about the number of bolts needed--the dealer said that the JD specs say 7 bolts total, but I pointed out that there are 7 bolt holes on each side, for a total of 14 bolts. Unfortunately, they only had 12 bolts available.

I made a trip to another local dealer that afternoon, got the remaining two bolts, and the next day (today) I put the loader on. I used a torque wrench to make sure the mounting frame bolts were tightened to specs (105 ft-lbs).

As far as I can tell it works great! I haven't actually used it for anything yet, however.

The sight glass for the hydro fluid still is still completely filled, just as it was before I put the loader on. I guess the loader was already charged with fluid?

One frustration: I picked up this hood guard kit, and it doesn't work with the 210 loader. The parking stand on the loader can't lock into place when the hood guard is on. I had to take the hood guard off. :-( The best I can do is return it and get 70% of what I paid for it back. Maybe I'll try and sell it on MTF.

I've thought about cutting it and welding on some plates to make it taller--if I did that, I think I could make it work with the 210 loader. I don't have the tools or the welding experience to do it, but I might be able to find a local welder who could help me out.

So, there's my update I'll try and get some pictures to post shortly.

-Josh

 

[jbeall]

Hi All,

Here's an update on this: I got the loader, it seemed in fine shape, and in February I was able to get the mounting brackets to attach it.

It seems to be working fine, but one thing makes me wonder if there is a problem with the hydraulics: I can't lift the back end off the ground. If I'm trying to lift a big rock or pull out a fence post that's concreted in, the loader will just quit moving if there is too much resistance.

The rear tires are filled, but there is no rear ballast.

Does this sound right, or should I suspect a hydraulic issue?

-Josh

 

[RoyJackson]

Hi All,

Here's an update on this: I got the loader, it seemed in fine shape, and in February I was able to get the mounting brackets to attach it.

It seems to be working fine, but one thing makes me wonder if there is a problem with the hydraulics: I can't lift the back end off the ground. If I'm trying to lift a big rock or pull out a fence post that's concreted in, the loader will just quit moving if there is too much resistance.

The rear tires are filled, but there is no rear ballast.

Does this sound right, or should I suspect a hydraulic issue?

-Josh

I don't think you have any problem...sounds like the pressure relief valve is doing it's job keeping you out of trouble.
Your loader should be able to lift the front end of the tractor though.
With the bucket level on the ground, try using the dump function. You may need to increase RPM a bit (say 1500-2000 RPM or a bit more).
If the loader lifts the front end, you're fine...

 

[jbeall]

I seem to only be able to lift the front of the tractor by uncurling the bucket, not if I just push the bucket arms down. Is that what the "dump function" is?

 

[RoyJackson]

I seem to only be able to lift the front of the tractor by uncurling the bucket, not if I just push the bucket arms down. Is that what the "dump function" is?

Curl is when you fill and rotate the bucket back toward the tractor, dump is just the opposite...
Your loader arms won't travel down far enough to lift the tractor...not without using the bucket dump too.

So, I really don't think you have a problem. I don't recommend trying to lift the rear of the tractor again though.

 

[GGB]

I would bet that you may be trying to do more than the lift capacity of the tractor and loader. I've got the same 2210/210, and while I'm amazed at what it can do, it does have it's limits like any machine.

As Roy Jackson suggested, I think the pressure relief valve will keep that from occuring.IIRC, I can't lift the rear wheels off the ground on mine, which is a good thing in my opinion.

I was able to move a huge rock to a different location (which was already loose) that I'm sure was well above the lift limits of the the machine by getting the bucket under it and then dragging the bucket in reverse to get the rock to the new location. I would have used the skid loader, but had it at the farm. Using this method worked okay for that purpose, but again, the rock was not buried.

For concreted fence posts, you may be able to use the curl function to work them loose, but be careful not to bend the bucket. Go slow, and maybe use some water to loosen the ground around the post to help.

Good luck with your new loader. I think you'll be very glad to have it, but again it does have it's limits.

 

[jbeall]

Sounds good.

The reason I was suspicious is because I've heard that you should put rear weights (e.g., Heavy Hitch + suitcase weights) on the back for loader work, to have adequate counter balance.

But, if the rear of the tractor is staying firmly on the ground without rear weights, then is there any reason to get rear weights?

-Josh

 

[RoyJackson]

Sounds good.

The reason I was suspicious is because I've heard that you should put rear weights (e.g., Heavy Hitch + suitcase weights) on the back for loader work, to have adequate counter balance.

But, if the rear of the tractor is staying firmly on the ground without rear weights, then is there any reason to get rear weights?

-Josh

Rear wheel ballast (weights or liquid) increase traction and aids in stability. Rear ballast on the 3PH increases traction and takes some weight off the front axle. I strongly suggest you use something on the 3PH for ballast during loader work.

 

[jbeall]

I've got a 400 pound 6' rear scraper blade. That wouldn't cost me anything to use as rear ballast. I would just need to watch out and make sure I don't bump into anything when backing up