Moving a 400' hedge row

   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Watch out for big winds that might catch the row sideways and blow things over. I used to not water when big winds were expected.
The cedar is all roots in a mass and all are near the surface and not very wide. Trees will look scraggly the first year or two and seem like they are not doing well because the roots need to bulk up again to support the tree. So the tree suffers. Hence the fertilizer as well as the water when it's dry in the summer. All your top growth will be done pretty early in the season but the roots will keep growing, especially in the fall and early winter/spring when temps are in the 50ish area.

I'm still in favor of a second row of $1.70 seedlings in front of the first and spaced 4' off the row. plant with a spud bar or seedling tool and do this month. Will make things look better and quicker even if you cut the seedings down in ten years or sell to someone else.

The cedar is the perfect border tree.

Don't water when high winds are expected? Thanks for the tip! It makes sense and not sure I would have thought of that.

I appreciate the suggestion of planting seedlings, but it just won't work for me and my situation. The main reason, amongst others is it does nothing to address the current problem with the branches growing over the property line. The neighbor made a comment last year stating that the trees didn't look any different after I had just finished trimming them. Yet other could easily see the difference. This neighbor is full of himself if he thinks I'm going to cut his side back to the property line which would leave 8" growth on his side and 24"+ on my side. Especially after he was the one who said to plant them ~on~ the property line back in 96
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #22  
You know, somewhere in one of these threads is one with photos where I moved some cedars that were about the same height as yours. Did it with a backhoe, sort of ripped them out and every one lived even in the dry clay of Ohio. That's because of water and fertilizer when it mattered. Your trees are going to have one holy heck of a mass of roots near the surface. Dig that tremch deeper than you think.

Because of the trench method your trees are going to be more prone to wind and tipping till the soil packs and the roots get started. You might have to half-way tie them down. Nothing elaborate but depends on the wind you get..

I moved some cedars in Maine that were maybe 12 ft tall and I did it during the sloppy soft mud season by wrapping a 3/8" chain around the base and ripping them straight up with a bucket loader. The larger chain sort-of kinked before it hurt the tree. Got a great root ball and moved a whole row of them while my wife was out shopping. Did this with many evergreens too and 100% success.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#23  
You know, somewhere in one of these threads is one with photos where I moved some cedars that were about the same height as yours. Did it with a backhoe.

I saw that thread and at first thought that your way was a bit too aggressive. But after seeing and doing I now know these things are a lot more tolerant than meets the eye! In fact some of the ones I moved a month ago are already sprouting buds. Kinda a surprised as I didn't expect any growth this year other than the roots re-establishing.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #24  
They are going to need water so don't get woozy on us if things seem even a little dry. Sure wish I could talk you into a tree spade to move those. If it's possible, and rocks would be the reason it wouldn't be, you would be done by now and sipping a brewski on the back porch. How's the neighbor?

It's likely getting too late in the season to move them.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#25  
This project started off on a great note and the icing on the cake was getting the neighbors approval to go on his property with my tractor to aide in the moving.

However it didn't all go so good...neighbor wise anyways.

I have about a third of them moved so far with excellent results. My tree guy got me started off on the right foot, but since he has a nursery to run, I've been doing the rest solo. He has stopped by a few times to check on my progress and I got an A for excellence LOL

Like many of the projects I tackle, in my minds eye it's easily doable and well within my means. However...I always underestimate the time requirements. Someday I'll learn...I hope!!

Here's a few shots of the progress...

The first is a shot of after the first one moved
Next one is the property line versus the tree location
Then a couple of shots after some were moved
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Holy smokes are these things heavy! The root ball and tree I guesstimate to be about 500#'s give or take. I cut the ball at 18" between the trees and 24" on the outsides. A bigger machine would've been quicker/easier but you work with what you have.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#27  
We did try the tree spade, but the 3' OC placement was too narrow and would have damaged the trees more than necessary trying to maneuver it into place. That and the rocks made it a no go. I did try to locate another spade but no such luck, at least here in CT and also checked in RI. I considered purchasing one but the expense didn't make sense...for that kinda coin I could have just paid my tree guy and his crew to move them.

I'm on top of the watering sixdogs so thanks for the reminder. I have plenty of water and 400' of 3/4" hose so no worries. It's been a dry spring so far but this past few days we finally got plenty. I also water them heavily the day before to aide in moving and keep the rootball intact
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I have more pics but need to transfer and resize for posting. Mostly redundant pics as this project is about exciting as watching paint dry:p I'll get to them when I can. I will say this though...its hard work! Machine or not, cutting the rootball, moving them into place AND making sure they are aligned correctly. I did notice that as I drag them over sometimes they tend to rotate. Which could leave the bare side exposed. I'm sure in time they would fill in again, but that's something I don't want to deal with. So I set them correctly and follow the string line. This is the first weekend since I started that I got a break. The much needed rain was a blessing and it allowed me to get caught up on other things. One of which is cut the grass...speaking of which...the sun is peeking through finally and shortly I'll head out and get it done.

Now for the neighbor...don't want to get too long winded so I'll keep it brief for now

At the onset, I saw the neighbor outside in his driveway working. Perfect time to ask permission as I don't ever again intend on knocking on his door...NEVER! He acted surprised that I was moving them...hmmm we just spent a full day digging a 300'trench and I saw him/them/someone watching us from their upstairs window...whatever...

Anyway he said ok just watch out for the underground utilities. OK...your utilities are buried 3' down, why do I need to worry and also the Arb's are a surface rooted tree so only digging down about a foot. I'll skip the rest for now other than to say his ignorance was obvious

Fast forward to last weekend...the week prior the neighbor decided to spruce up his side of the trees at the corner by removing the stone(mulch) bed he put yrs ago. Guess he figured it was too steep to mow? Well in doing so he buried the corner property stake again. This is the second time since the survey was re-done that he buried it. First time he raised the grade up about 4-5" and I dug it up again and left it open. I didn't say anything mainly because I didn't see him around. Then when he cleaned up the area and layed sod down, he buried the stake again. I was furious but kept my cool. Next I noticed when he mowed his lawn he nailed my stake that held the string line for the new tree line...I about blew my top but once againg kept my temper in check for the time being. If I went to see him at that moment I knew for sure it would get ugly and I wasn't about to get arrested over his childish antics.

A few days ago he was out mowing his driveway area and considering the lack of rain it was a dust bowll. I was on the inside of my trees and got a face full of dirt and stone. THAT WAS THE LAST STRAW!!! I slipped through the trees...probably scared the snot out of him when I appeared...and flagged him down. I was on the verge of losing it but again kept my self in check. I'm sure it was obvious to him that I was pissed. I then read him the riot act and told him I had enough of his shenanigans. What shocked me the most was the denial. Yep...he denied everything. said he didn't do any of what I told him. Even with him on video...yep I have proof....he denied it all. He did admit to taking and selling my fence charger because it wasn't being used anymore and it didn't work! What a maroon.

I hate to stop here but the sun is out and I have a few acres to mow. I'll continue more later...sorry guys...time is too valuable to me right now. Be patient, I'll be back
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #29  
Man, you have a real jewel of a neighbor, my condolences..
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I'm done with this neighbor for good and probably should have left him out of this thread as I don't want to turn this into a rant thread.

back on subject...

I started off on a great note with moving the trees. Had neighbors permission to go on his property, a week off, a set of forks and all the motivation I needed. However I wasted a few days...as it turns out...by taking the time to tie up all the trees. And that part was a royal pain. Had no idea how difficult it would be since the branches grow into and around each other. Figured it would speed up the process tying them first...wrong! Then I found using the forks to move them over didn't work as planned. Too much weight for my tractors hydraulics output...I forgot the actual weight, but these forks are HEAVY! What I did find useful was using a single fork to cut/dig under the rootball and work them loose. Again not enough hydraulics to actually pop them free, considering all the feeder roots that Arb's have. But combining the fork and my 16" spade shovel, I got it done. Biggest time killer was the rocks. Nothing I couldn't handle...basketball size being the largest...but still it drained me of energy at times working around them to cut the roots free. Once the rootball was cut free, I just used a strap and pulled them over with my tractor. Back-filling wasn't as bad as I expected, but still time consuming. Unfortunately, now that the trees are about to bud and only about a third moved so far, I had to untie them. Leaving them tied up won't kill them, but my tree guy said it wasn't good for them. I still have about a dozen tied up and hope to move them in the next week or so. Then production comes to a halt...sigh!!...according to him I have to wait until after the buds sprout..maybe 3-4 weeks... and then I can resume. As long as the temps remain below about 90*, he said I can can continue. Just need to water thoroughly which I have no problem doing. I hope to get at least half way by the time the heat of the summer arrives. The rest I'll finish late summer/fall.

Since the time consumption is more than I expected, I'm back searching for a smaller tree spade. So far no luck. Ideally a rental would be my first choice and I'm willing to travel a bit to get one. Maybe even a trailer model as I've seen a few that appear to be the right size. It was suggested that I contact Bobcat national and see if they can assist me any. I did get a referral to a local Bobcat dealer that rents them, but since the demand wasn't there, I was told they got rid of it last year. Tomorrow I plan to call Bobcat and see if they can give me a lead to a rental.

Tree spade or not, one way or another I'll get them all moved by the years end....or die trying ;) If anyone has any better ideas or suggestions please speak up...my back will thank you:p
 
 
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