Mud Mess Jobsite

   / Mud Mess Jobsite #11  
48" by? I defer completely to a local engineer; just curious.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #13  
Anything that you do now will just create more problems later. I understand that you want to get started but spring will be here before you know it.
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #14  
Alan W. said:
I think the main problem was the soil wasn’t or wouldn’t compact on the initial fill.
I haven’t done any commercial work in a few years. To get good compaction with smaller equipment you need to spread no more than a 8 to 10 inch lift of fill then with a full bucket run back and forth compacting that layer before adding the next.
I did this 40’ x 50’ pad for my neighbor this year. The fill area goes from 6” to 3’. The clay was barely damp enough to get compaction. I thought I was going to need to wet it some.
But it turned out well.


View attachment 851219
Click to expand...
Good advice except place fill max lift of six inches
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #15  
here is your choice …
-wait for it to dry
-scrape that soupe and replace with sand then gravel
-add a lot of gravel on top until it become solid

you played in it for too long while wet. first option might take a while for the other two you should still wait for things to dry up at least a little, the second option it might just keep sinking while you are digging but there is ways of doing it … lay sand and remove the mud in front of it then replace that void with sand while creeping forward and repeating this process. the second it will take a lot of material and it will push the mud to the side and mud will infiltrate the gravel but eventually you will get it … the last two options will cost ya but all three will work, but none is perfect for you at this point.
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #17  
Streetcar said:
Good advice except place fill max lift of six inches
Click to expand...
not ready to say max on the six inch lift, do you think 2 inch makes that much of a difference? on culvert replacement on the highway we did 10 to 12 inch lift with sand and 8 to 10 inch lift with gravel but that was compacted with diesel plates and plenty of water, it passed compaction tests every time...
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #18  
The depth of the lift is related to a couple of things;
  • What you are compacting
    • Rock
    • Gravel
    • Sand
    • Clay soil
    • Loam type soils
  • the force of the compaction
    • Weight of the machine
    • Area of the machine tires / roller
    • Any vibratory force
    • The type of roller; e.g. sheep's foot vs smooth vs tire
  • the cohesiveness of the material
    • Dry vs wet
    • Clay vs sand
    • Smooth vs angular
    • Size of the material
I personally would be hesitant to say X inches of lift is ok without knowing most or all of the above. Professional engineers have tons of material for specifying this, and often field check to verify the reality over the theory.

I think we would all agree that the OP @chris the wrench has an issue, and that there might be a few solutions.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite
  • Thread Starter
#19  
ponytug said:
I think we would all agree that the OP @chris the wrench has an issue, and that there might be a few solutions.
Click to expand...
Just one issue? Thanks, I appreciate the optimism! But I appreciate the feedback more.

Rockbadchild said:
-scrape that soupe and replace with sand then gravel
-add a lot of gravel on top until it become solid
Click to expand...
I was thinking something similar to what you are describing, but the price for rock/sand delivery to me is quite high(atleast for this project). That being said I was initially planning on hauling in a bunch of 3/4 minus and spreading it on the existing earth as my floor, but with this current condition, or even if it's all dried out by May, Im wondering if I will need to bring in some 3-4" minus, compact and then add my 3/4" minus topcoat.


I appreciate all the responses, I think Im going to go with the wait for it to dry out naturally method. I went out this morning and it was partially refrozen enough to walk around so I could take some more measurements. Apparently I put the majority of the cut away material further downhill then the footprint of the building will be, so where the 3 of the 4 posts will be going on the downhill side there is maybe 2" of fill ontop of the natural earth while one post will go in what was in a dip and will probably have 8-10".

Im still surprised by how much I chewed up the natural earth that I had exposed(not the fill), with ruts yesterday. :eek: argh!!
 
   / Mud Mess Jobsite #20  
3 to 4 inch minus material compaction is out of this world, very pricy as it is very heavy... but that's the best you can get in my opinion, I wouldn't put material right over the ruts it will create a uneven sub contact and it will eventually translate to the surface... at least back blade it first and put that 3/4 inch material on top, one lift of 10 inch and it might or might not be solid at that point depending how soft the ground is, its hard to tell just like that but that will be the material that will give you the best chance. The issue if if it keep raining, now you have a hole that would retain the water in that's less then ideal.

You need about 25 cubic yard of material to fill this hole as is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
 

Footer Links 1

Top