MULE 3010 GRINDING

[garci]

I have an 2006 3010 Trans 4x4. I have a hard time shifting into gear without grinding. Reverse is a little better. I think it is an idle problem. When cold it tends to slow idle and stall 50/50% of the time if you can't get back to gas quick enough. But when warm it idles to fast. Cannot get a constant idle speed. If you tap on the gas pedel enough times it slows down enough to get into gear. Iv'e been to the dealer several times with no luck. They replaced the carburator and looked everything over but could not fix. When tapping on gas and looking at carb there is slack, movement or hangup in the cable that I can see or feel. I played with the cable, carb adj, clean air filter, adjust valve, etc with no luck. Been like this since day one. Anybody else have this problem???

Thanks
Mike[/QUOTE

Mike my Kawasaki wont idle what do I do

 

[Maverill]

I had issues with the idle running high when it warmed up (didn't want to idle down when slowing down once it warmed up) and someone recommended putting in some stabil gas treatment and that fixed it. I am going to try doing that every couple tanks or so and see if it keeps things running well. Worth shot for your first try and a lot simpler than tearing into the carburetor. I like to try the simple approach first

 

[Maverill]

Also a while back I had to replace my fuel pump when it was running erratically at high temps found out the wires to the pump were heating up and melting over time so the pump would act up only when warm. Replaced the $300 Kawasaki pump with a $60 third party equivalent and has run great for about 2 years. The gas mules are finicky in my opinion I have the same year and model as yours but its all good right now just learning what works and what doesn't. I am hoping running stabil regularly takes care of things. I immediately saw my issues go away with idling after mixing it in so that's a good sign. Ethanol gas does collect moisture and the Mule doesn't seem to like that. I would do the stabil and then have someone look at the fuel pump if that doesn't fix things.

 

[franklinute]

We have an old 2310 Mule and has done the same grinding when shifting problem. When the rpms won't go down we turn the key off,
shift the selector and quickly turn the key back on. I can't stand to hear the sound of the hard shift. There is no adjustment on the carb.
We have just learned to live with it the way it is. It seems to come and go. Has to be something in the idle circiut of the carb.

 

[Maverill]

Ya mine used to do that a lot and then we had the coils replaced and fuel pump and all was well for awhile until recently. Never really found a connection to the carburetor oddly enough. In the case above I think I may have gotten water in my gas and the Stabil took care of that. Its been running great for about a week now.

 

[Maverill]

Garci,

Check the wires on your fuel pump. If they feel really warm when its hot or the rubber is melting around them that may be your issue. If that's it let me know and I can give you the part # for a good third party replace for $60 instead of the $300 Kawasaki one. The pump on mine is running strong for about 2 years now and even if I had to replace it again I could buy 5 of these for the price of one Kawasaki pump. If you notice over time your mule stops running when it gets hot them you are more than likely looking at a bad pump. Mine started out doing what yours is doing and later on it would only run for short distances and quit and the fuel pump resolved that. I agree the turn it off solution and back on has worked for me as well a few times but that drives me crazy after a while. I like things to work how they are supposed to

 

[Maverill]

desertmike345,


In regard to:

"After years of gear grinding I found someone who could fix it. The mixture screws were modified so that it could idle. There were several other things also changed. He also had a transmission apart and showed me what causes the grinding. Basically its two cogs being pushed together with the gear selector. When idleing to fast the tips of the cogs grind and wear the tips off. After to much gringing it starts jumping out of gear. Several hundred $$ which included filters, spark plugs etc the MULE runs great. Has about 4 hrs on it. Has more power than it ever had and the govenor is still on."




I had the same work done on mine. Wish I hadn't put up with the fast idle so long. I would recommend getting to the bottom of the idle issue ASAP or you will end up paying a lot more for other issues. See my 2014 posts for other things such as the fuel pump and coils that were probably related to idling issues. If you grind the gears you will end up having transmission work done I have never really found any issues with the Carb itself but my mechanic did modify the screws as well a few years back. Regular maintenance helps as well and use Stabil in the winter if storing. Water in your gas can mess with the idle a well. Well enough said on this issue I will move on to other things.

 

[motodude4]

I had the same problem With my mule 3010 4X4. When I bought it, it had been sitting for over 2 years. The previous owner was an elderly man, bought a new one and let this one sit. Anyways I replaced the front differential with a used unit from ebay for 175 dollars. The original unit had a hole in the bottom and the input bearing was gone. The shaft was just slinging around. Who knows what happened. I replaced the fluids in the front diff, rear diff, and engine. I also put a brand new carb on it.

This is when I noticed the grinding that everyone is mentioning here. After a lot of frustration, I finally figured out what the problem was. Its a quick fix and only will cost you about 10 dollars to fix it. What you have to do, is get a can of dry lubricant. Comet makes some but is like 25-30 dollars. No thanks, I went to oriellys and got a 5 dollar can of dry lube. Now, you need to take of the CVT cover, and expose the belt drive system. Simply spray the dry lube on all of the contact patches on the clutch, as well as the shaft that the clutches drive on. (mine had a tad bit of rust.) now the key to this is, don't get it on the belt, or the surface where the belt touches, only on the backside and internal parts of the clutch.

After I did this, let it sit, cranked it up and reved it a few times, then repeated 4 times, my mule switches gears without any grinding what so ever. just make sure that you let it dry before you start it, and be careful where you spray.

The problem was that the clutch would not fully disengage when you slowed the engine down to an idle. This lubrication fixed the problem, and a lot of headaches.

 

[TableRocked]

thanks for sharing....glad it all worked out