Muratic Acid on cylinder walls?

   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #1  

cjmmbrock

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My Yanmar 3 cylinder diesel (John Deere 750) ran hot and deposited some piston material on the cylinder wall. I've plan to get some Muratic acid next time I'm in town and see if it will remove the metal. Has anyone tried this before and is it OK on this type of cylinder? Any better ideas?

This engine doesn't have sleeves, so I'm planning to clean it up and check the end gaps on a new set of rings. If the end gaps aren't too big, I plan to hone/deglaze and install new rings and piston. Before I do anything though, I gotta get this metal off the wall :eek: .

Thanks in advance,
Chris
 

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   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #2  
I don't think it will work. I know people who put burr bits plugged with aluminum in muriatic to clean them. They let them soak for a few days. I dont see how you can do that with a cyl. I would try to scrape off all you can before trying the muriatic. Also make sure you don't get any on the crank journal. Are you sure you don't have any other engine issues. It takes a lot of heat to distort the cyl or piston bad enough to score a piston like that.
Bill
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #3  
With the pistons out try a cylinder hone.
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #5  
That looks nasty. I would pull the piston and inspect it. Thats a lot of Aluminum. Rings may have lost tension also. That thang been a cookin. :eek:
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I don't think it will work. I know people who put burr bits plugged with aluminum in muriatic to clean them. They let them soak for a few days. I dont see how you can do that with a cyl. I would try to scrape off all you can before trying the muriatic. Also make sure you don't get any on the crank journal. Are you sure you don't have any other engine issues. It takes a lot of heat to distort the cyl or piston bad enough to score a piston like that.
Bill

No, that doesn't sound like it'll work does it? The metal is pretty dense too....it's not very tall, but its dense.

As far as other engine issues, I don't have an inside mic (or whatever it's called) to mic the cylinder, so I'm going to try and use a compression ring to see if the cylinder egg shaped....hopefully it didn't. The picture of the cylinder looks scored worse that it really is....There are small lines in the cylinder, but NONE that you could even hang your fingernail on. The other 2 pistons look fine, and all 3 rod bearings are ok. No visible cracks in the head or block deck. I did a leakdown, and all the valves are sealing well.

My concern (which I don't have the tools to determine) is something got warped (cylinder, deck or head). I'm gonna remove the metal somehow, deglaze/hone all 3 cylinders, replace the bad piston, and all 3 sets of rings......and keep my fingers crossed. Would you replace the other 2 pistons also? Not to sound cheap, but they're $150.00 each. ($300.00 is alot of money right now :( )





How the heck did that happen ?


In my line of work, they say 3 errors or failures normally lead to an accident:

1 - A friend drained the antifreeze and didn't tell me (He intended on refilling it in a couple of days)
2 - I didn't check it.
3 - Temperature sending unit was bad (this tractor doesn't have gauges, only warning lights that come on if temp is too high, oil pressure too low, or alternator failure).

It ran about 10 mintues with no coolant in the engine :eek:.
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #7  
About 10 years ago I bought a Kubota powered mower that someone put gasoline in the diesel fuel tank. Severely damaged the injectors and the injector pump. The heat melted the tops on 2 of the pistons, depositing the molten aluminum on the cylinder walls and sticking the engine.
After driving the pistons down... I took a rotating sand paper drill motor attachment, (the stacked flapper type) ... If you don't apply a lot of pressure, you can gently erase the soft aluminum without damaging the hard steel cylinder wall.
That engine had a LOT more aluminum than you have... I'm still using that engine today and put around 100 hrs on it every year. Runs great. KennyV
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
That looks nasty. I would pull the piston and inspect it. Thats a lot of Aluminum. Rings may have lost tension also. That thang been a cookin. :eek:


I agree on the nasty part....can you tell which one got warm :D ?

And as far as the rings go......the oil ring is still loose, but the 2 compression rings are welded to the piston :mad: .
 

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   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
About 10 years ago I bought a Kubota powered mower that someone put gasoline in the diesel fuel tank. Severely damaged the injectors and the injector pump. The heat melted the tops on 2 of the pistons, depositing the molten aluminum on the cylinder walls and sticking the engine.
After driving the pistons down... I took a rotating sand paper drill motor attachment, (the stacked flapper type) ... If you don't apply a lot of pressure, you can gently erase the soft aluminum without damaging the hard steel cylinder wall.
That engine had a LOT more aluminum than you have... I'm still using that engine today and put around 100 hrs on it every year. Runs great. KennyV

Thanks KennyV I'll give that a try too... I'll post back my results.

Chris
 
   / Muratic Acid on cylinder walls? #10  
I seriously doubt your temp sending unit is bad. It can not conduct heat well in air as it will in water. Thats why I also like a oil temp gauge.

Here is the way a lady mechanic explained it to me. Turn you oven on 350 and open the door and stick you hand it. You can keep it there all day. Now do the same thing but put a pot of water in there and now stick your hand in the water. See what I am getting at?

Chris
 
 
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