tekavec
New member
I recently bought a used B7510hst with 64 hours on it. It hadn't had the 50 hour service done yet. So, after putting 4 more hours on it mowing fields, I figured it was time to put some fresh oil in it. Since I didn't get an owners manual, I ordered one online to help guide me through this process. I went and picked up all the filters, motor oil and UDT today and got started. First thing I had to do was disconnect the MMM which involves jacking up the front end to get enough clearance to pull it out from under the tractor. The engine oil was a snap except for getting the filter off...it was very tight so I used a band type filter wrench which slipped on the first try and ended up knocking off the radiator drain hose. It took me a second of confused bewilderment to realize that that green fluid coming out wasn't old motor oil
I noticed that a little more oil came out of the drain plug if I pushed in on the little ball bearing (check valve?) that's visible once you remove the oil filter. I'm a firm believer in getting as much of the old oil out as possible so I always open the filler cap to help vent and let it drain for at least 10 minutes. When replacing the oil filter be extra careful not to cross thread it as it's a little difficult to tell how it's screwing on with the radiator hose rubbing up against it.
After filling it up with 3 liters of rotella 15w40 (this brought the oil level to about halfway between the hash marks on the dipstick), I started on the hydro fluid change. Even though I don't have a garage (yet) and had to do this on my gravel drive it sure looked like it would be a lot easier to access the hydro filters, drain plugs, and screen if I removed the rear wheels. One thing I hadn't counted on was the fact the r4 tires had been filled by the previous owner They were very heavy!! But I'm still glad I took them off because it made access to the filters and filter screen much, much easier. Also while the wheels were off I checked the wheel positioning clamp bolt and both were pretty loose. I removed the drain plug on the left side first and this drained about three fourths of the oil. I then removed the plug on the opposite side and then the one under the mid PTO. I also checked the suction screen...one note on the filter screen bolt: I'm sure it's a metric size, but the biggest wrench I had was 22mm so I tried a 1" open end wrench and by very diligently working it on the bolt head it fit very, very tightly (some of the paint on the bolt head came off in the process). The screen was really very clean with only a very small shard or two of metal and what looked to be like a small amount of fibrous lint type material. All I had to do was wipe the screen with a clean rag and put it back in. I used a 5 gallon sheetrock bucket to catch all of the old oil and it fit nicely under the tractor (while jacked up to remove the wheels.) The hydro filters were easier to get off...maybe because they were easer to get a wrench on than the motor oil filter. Another thing I checked while the wheels were off were the bolts holding the ROPS to the frame...they weren't all that tight either! All in all not a very difficult procedure even with all the jacking and heavy wheels. Now I'm good to go for a while with the added peace of mind of fresh oil and filters.
Regards, Scott in WV
I noticed that a little more oil came out of the drain plug if I pushed in on the little ball bearing (check valve?) that's visible once you remove the oil filter. I'm a firm believer in getting as much of the old oil out as possible so I always open the filler cap to help vent and let it drain for at least 10 minutes. When replacing the oil filter be extra careful not to cross thread it as it's a little difficult to tell how it's screwing on with the radiator hose rubbing up against it. After filling it up with 3 liters of rotella 15w40 (this brought the oil level to about halfway between the hash marks on the dipstick), I started on the hydro fluid change. Even though I don't have a garage (yet) and had to do this on my gravel drive it sure looked like it would be a lot easier to access the hydro filters, drain plugs, and screen if I removed the rear wheels. One thing I hadn't counted on was the fact the r4 tires had been filled by the previous owner
They were very heavy!! But I'm still glad I took them off because it made access to the filters and filter screen much, much easier. Also while the wheels were off I checked the wheel positioning clamp bolt and both were pretty loose. I removed the drain plug on the left side first and this drained about three fourths of the oil. I then removed the plug on the opposite side and then the one under the mid PTO. I also checked the suction screen...one note on the filter screen bolt: I'm sure it's a metric size, but the biggest wrench I had was 22mm so I tried a 1" open end wrench and by very diligently working it on the bolt head it fit very, very tightly (some of the paint on the bolt head came off in the process). The screen was really very clean with only a very small shard or two of metal and what looked to be like a small amount of fibrous lint type material. All I had to do was wipe the screen with a clean rag and put it back in. I used a 5 gallon sheetrock bucket to catch all of the old oil and it fit nicely under the tractor (while jacked up to remove the wheels.) The hydro filters were easier to get off...maybe because they were easer to get a wrench on than the motor oil filter. Another thing I checked while the wheels were off were the bolts holding the ROPS to the frame...they weren't all that tight either! All in all not a very difficult procedure even with all the jacking and heavy wheels. Now I'm good to go for a while with the added peace of mind of fresh oil and filters. Regards, Scott in WV
