N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[TractorTech]

Fred, what are you talking about on the body panel removal? You removed the panel under the tank...easy. The tank shroud requires removing the steering wheel and the throttle rod in addition to removing the shroud bolts, but that shouldn't be necessary to add to module replacement.

Ted

 

[eKretz]

The only panel on my machine that needs to come off is the flat panel under the steering wheel up under which the module was bolted in. And yes Fred, the red wire is extraneous in this application. You can just leave it taped or capped with heat shrink.

On that note, I finally received my correct order and got the other controllers I ordered. I made up a small extension harness tonight and tested the controllers, everything is working perfectly via shuttle switch. I used the same color wires on my harness that the original harness uses. I'll include a photo of the wired connections. I just ran a jumper across from "Power -" on one controller and connected it to the same terminal on the other with a black wire. On the overload setting I set it at 3.0 amps, and I think I'm settled on a 3.0 second soft start. I left the under-voltage protection setting at 10.0 V. I left my displays set for amperage so I can monitor the current the solenoid coils are pulling. Oh, and the "soft stop" timer I set to 0.2 second so that it's almost instant off.

 

[TractorTech]

Yeah, the backhoe sheet metal is different.

 

[fred saas]

Fred, what are you talking about on the body panel removal? You removed the panel under the tank...easy. The tank shroud requires removing the steering wheel and the throttle rod in addition to removing the shroud bolts, but that shouldn't be necessary to add to module replacement.

Ted

Ted, I suspected the side panel to the left was able to be separated from the top panel which accommodates the instrument panel and steering column. I don't want to disturb that top panel. I wanted to expose the wiring on the side panel. The concealed wiring seems to be a DIY mess. Can I simply remove the side panel?

 

[fred saas]

The only panel on my machine that needs to come off is the flat panel under the steering wheel up under which the module was bolted in. And yes Fred, the red wire is extraneous in this application. You can just leave it taped or capped with heat shrink.

On that note, I finally received my correct order and got the other controllers I ordered. I made up a small extension harness tonight and tested the controllers, everything is working perfectly via shuttle switch. I used the same color wires on my harness that the original harness uses. I'll include a photo of the wired connections. I just ran a jumper across from "Power -" on one controller and connected it to the same terminal on the other with a black wire. On the overload setting I set it at 3.0 amps, and I think I'm settled on a 3.0 second soft start. I left the under-voltage protection setting at 10.0 V. I left my displays set for amperage so I can monitor the current the solenoid coils are pulling. Oh, and the "soft stop" timer I set to 0.2 second so that it's almost instant off.

View attachment 842460

View attachment 842461

Leonardo Da Vinci could not do that work of art and engineering!

 

[TractorTech]

Ted, I suspected the side panel to the left was able to be separated from the top panel which accommodates the instrument panel and steering column. I don't want to disturb that top panel. I wanted to expose the wiring on the side panel. The concealed wiring seems to be a DIY mess. Can I simply remove the side panel?

Yes, just remove the LH panel. The controller is bolted to it.

 

[fred saas]

Yes, just remove the LH panel. The controller is bolted to it.

Ted, I appreciate the comeback. The small panel with the controller was easy to remove. I'm thinking the large panel on the left above the controller panel. My wires are concealed behind it and difficult to sort out. How do I remove that panel, or should I forget it and make do?

 

[TractorTech]

Ted, I appreciate the comeback. The small panel with the controller was easy to remove. I'm thinking the large panel on the left above the controller panel. My wires are concealed behind it and difficult to sort out. How do I remove that panel, or should I forget it and make do?

I guess I'm not following. The left and right shroud under the steering wheel and tank are the only "panels". The fuel tank cowling is one piece over them. Do you have picture of what you are talking about?

 

[eKretz]

I think he's wanting to confirm the wire colors on the other side of the harness plugs. I think you might be fine just to run the wiring as I did, Fred. I would be surprised if the other end was different than we are expecting it to be. I know there were several updates to the controller and wiring, to the point that there were even changes made mid-model, but I think your output from the module side should go to the right places post-connector.

And BTW I had a setback today, but nothing to do with the controllers. I cranked the starter a little too long while it was below 30° out today and I'm pretty sure I finished off my starter. (It was already on the way out, cranking really slowly, despite having cleaned all the connection points in the starting system train). Ordered one from Broken Tractor a few minutes ago. Checked the power to the solenoid and was getting 12V to the trigger wire there. Also getting 12V to the starter and no crank. Even tried jumping the solenoid terminals out of desperation. Nada. What'cha gonna do...

 

[TractorTech]

I think he's wanting to confirm the wire colors on the other side of the harness plugs. I think you might be fine just to run the wiring as I did, Fred. I would be surprised if the other end was different than we are expecting it to be. I know there were several updates to the controller and wiring, to the point that there were even changes made mid-model, but I think your output from the module side should go to the right places post-connector.

Agree. There have been updates, but unless someone spliced into the harness, all should be fine.