N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[fred saas]

Fred, I don't think so on that one. You can probably just add a switch for lock-up. Did you use the torque converter lock-up much? (Switch on the end of the shuttle lever).

Thankyou much for this comeback. It took a load off my mind. The warning light and the button did not work. I didn't think much of it, but I thought now I should fix it. Basically, I am just using the 445C to deepen and expand my ponds. The wildlife around here is prolific, and the ponds are on the edge of my swamp. We have about 13 kinds of frogs and toads alone and my doggy is not sure of the swamp. My wife and I feel we are in paradise. It is only 12 acres. We propagate native plants, including insect eating varieties.

 

[eKretz]

Oh, and as far as how to wire the switch for the converter lock-up, I would just use a toggle switch to run 12V to the solenoid when you want the converter locked. You might want to use a relay in that circuit since there's no soft start. Most of the wear to a switch's contacts is from when it's switching high current. That shouldn't be a problem for the shuttle switch FWD/REV with the soft start controllers, since they switch at very low current, then gradually ramp it up. I think the original lock-up switch is a momentary push button, right? If that's correct, you can't use that without a special circuit, since there's no easy way to switch on/off with the momentary switch without one.

 

[eKretz]

Usually no problem loosing parts just hard to get that inside bolt in/out.

Yeah, I'm not particularly looking forward to getting it back in. It will probably cost me a few choice words, I think...

 

[TractorTech]

Yeah, I'm not particularly looking forward to getting it back in. It will probably cost me a few choice words, I think...

And bruised or busted knuckles?

 

[fred saas]

The only panel on my machine that needs to come off is the flat panel under the steering wheel up under which the module was bolted in. And yes Fred, the red wire is extraneous in this application. You can just leave it taped or capped with heat shrink.

On that note, I finally received my correct order and got the other controllers I ordered. I made up a small extension harness tonight and tested the controllers, everything is working perfectly via shuttle switch. I used the same color wires on my harness that the original harness uses. I'll include a photo of the wired connections. I just ran a jumper across from "Power -" on one controller and connected it to the same terminal on the other with a black wire. On the overload setting I set it at 3.0 amps, and I think I'm settled on a 3.0 second soft start. I left the under-voltage protection setting at 10.0 V. I left my displays set for amperage so I can monitor the current the solenoid coils are pulling.:

View attachment 842460

View attachment 842461

eKretz have you got it going? I ran 1 power from the key jumping to both controllers. Now I want to set both controllers and try it out. (gulp) I haven't tried settingthe controllers and could you please explain:

Oh, and the "soft stop" timer I set to 0.2 second so that it's almost instant off.

 

[fred saas]

TractorTech Ted I'm noy going to remove any panels. Y'all convinced me not to and you were right!

 

[eKretz]

Fred, yes, mine is working. Drove perfectly using the shuttle shift lever for shifting - until the starter went out. I'm still waiting on my starter to ship.I may just yank the old one apart and see if I can't fix it.

The soft stop function is just a timer that drops voltage over a set time period instead of instantly. You can adjust that to whatever you like within the available range. I just set mine to 0.2 second, to keep it nice and short. I think the lowest is 0.1 second.

Be extremely careful running the controllers like that from the key. You absolutely do NOT want to engage both clutch solenoids at once or you may destroy something in the transmission. Make absolutely sure you are mindful of that.

 

[TractorTech]

Fred, yes, mine is working. Drove perfectly using the shuttle shift lever for shifting - until the starter went out. I'm still waiting on my starter to ship.I may just yank the old one apart and see if I can't fix it.

The soft stop function is just a timer that drops voltage over a set time period instead of instantly. You can adjust that to whatever you like within the available range. I just set mine to 0.2 second, to keep it nice and short. I think the lowest is 0.1 second.

Be extremely careful running the controllers like that from the key. You absolutely do NOT want to engage both clutch solenoids at once or you may destroy something in the transmission. Make absolutely sure you are mindful of that.

You have the controllers wired through the shifter, yes?
Shouldn't be any voltage going to a solenoid until shifter is put F/R.

 

[fred saas]

Oh, and as far as how to wire the switch for the converter lock-up, I would just use a toggle switch to run 12V to the solenoid when you want the converter locked. You might want to use a relay in that circuit since there's no soft start. Most of the wear to a switch's contacts is from when it's switching high current. That shouldn't be a problem for the shuttle switch FWD/REV with the soft start controllers, since they switch at very low current, then gradually ramp it up. I think the original lock-up switch is a momentary push button, right? If that's correct, you can't use that without a special circuit, since there's no easy way to switch on/off with the momentary switch without one.

I think the original lock-up switch is a momentary push button, right? If that's correct, you can't use that without a special circuit, since there's no easy way to switch on/off with the momentary switch without one.
eKretz, Do I need to use the lovkup? Can I just forget it?If I do require it, what is a special circuit? what does that mean? Thanks, Fred

 

[eKretz]

You have the controllers wired through the shifter, yes?
Shouldn't be any voltage going to a solenoid until shifter is put F/R.

*I* do, yes. But Fred said that he had just powered the controllers from key switch voltage. I think that's not a great idea. I'd just connect them to the harness, then there's no danger of that. Fred, remember that the controllers immediately switch on and would try to power the outputs right away when they're powered up, so it would be very easy to make a mistake hooking them up like that.