N H Ford 445C TCM no. FONN7Z319AAR.

[fred saas]

Do you mean on the controller minimum voltage protection setting? That minimum voltage is just the voltage at the battery below which the controllers won't activate the solenoids. Not really likely to ever even come into play for our application, so I just left it where it was at default. If your battery drops to 10V, your machine will not even be likely to crank, I'm guessing.

Hmmm, makes sense, I'm with you. Thanks. OK, eKoretz, I've got another question. Working my way toward the source of yellow (+) and the blue (-) on the reverse module, I found close to the block both wires cut, reversed soldered and shrink tubed. It looked old not recent. Are the solenoids pos./neg. sensitive? I haven't got any power going to the (+) motors. Tomorrow an experienced tractor guy is coming over with his test tools. I'll let you both know the results.


TractorTech

 

[eKretz]

The solenoids are not polarity sensitive. Either wire can go to positive or negative.

 

[eKretz]

Fred, are your controllers wired in to the harness now? Are you saying that you have power in to the controllers but not out to the solenoids?

 

[fred saas]

Fred, are your controllers wired in to the harness now? Are you saying that you have power in to the controllers but not out to the solenoids?

Yes, turn on the key and put it in fwd and the battery status comes on. I tried every which way, with the engine on, shifting gears and running a test between (+) and yellow (+), nothing, the controller is set ok. I'll find out today from this pro coming with his test equipment. (?????????)

 

[eKretz]

When you put your meter leads on "Motor +" and "Motor -" on the controller (you can just touch the screws with the leads, red lead to +, black lead to -) is there any voltage while the controller is powered up?

 

[fred saas]

When you put your meter leads on "Motor +" and "Motor -" on the controller (you can just touch the screws with the leads, red lead to +, black lead to -) is

When you put your meter leads on "Motor +" and "Motor -" on the controller (you can just touch the screws with the leads, red lead to +, black lead to -) is there any voltage while the controller is powered up?

nothing! I'd rather I ruined the new controllers for $50, than have a problem elsewhere. I rescheduled the tractor person with test experience until tomorrow or so. I was just too tired. Do you have any ideas? I'm more concerned knowing what might be wrong, whatever, than being in the dark. I haven't put voltage to the motor (+). I'm not sure about it.

 

[eKretz]

You're going to have to start at the beginning again. What exactly have you hooked up and where, first of all. Are both controllers fully wired into the harness and connected? Also, are the controllers powering up when you shift the shuttle lever into Forward & Reverse?

I could probably have this straightened out for you in 5 minutes, being there. It's a little more difficult at distance over the Internet...

 

[fred saas]

You're going to have to start at the beginning again. What exactly have you hooked up and where, first of all. Are both controllers fully wired into the harness and connected? Also, are the controllers powering up when you shift the shuttle lever into Forward & Reverse?

I could probably have this straightened out for you in 5 minutes, being there. It's a little more difficult at distance over the Internet...

It's Very beautiful down here along the Coast. I sailed from Palo Alto South of SF in 1983 and never looked back. Attached is a video of the boat I designed self-built. I sold her 20 years ago...
Attached is a video of my boat and the area. just 30 miles or so of pure white Coastal granite sand from the Appalachians.
Now back to business: both controllers are properly hooked for the grey and black connectors. I've checked them and read Ted's and your good instructions many times. All gears are in neutral. I push the shuttle forward and the battery status comes on and below that shows numeral (3) (??). Same with reverse. I did the startup 1 (3.0), 2 (.2), then zeros up to 5 which is at (10), I didn't do it. It's just there. 6 (10v). 7 (V), I will change 7 to (A). I've cleaned up many wires that were loose or frayed. The instruments work including the alternator and the engine starts at a touch.. The implements work fine and there are no leaks. I'm almost fortunate!

 

[eKretz]

Very nice boat. She's a beauty.

You will have a problem with setting 4 if it's at zero. That one needs to be at 100. That's the default value, and means that the controller can output 100% pulse width, or full DC voltage. If you have it at zero it can't output any power at all.

 

[fred saas]

Very nice boat. She's a beauty.

You will have a problem with setting 4 if it's at zero. That one needs to be at 100. That's the default value, and means that the controller can output 100% pulse width, or full DC voltage. If you have it at zero it can't output any power at all.

I'll be a monkey's uncle! It's 4am, can't wait til daylight!