Need a welder for a novice

[Turfman]

Well I need to buy a welder and need some advice on what to get to start out. I would love a mig, but it doesn't fit in the budget (too many children that need shoes). So, I think it will have to be an arc welder. I have 220 available in the new shop. What should I get and what about accessories, helmet, etc.

This setup will be for simple repairs and projects. I have a friend who welds for anything extensive, he's just 20 miles away and having one in the shop would be handy.

I've never welded before so I'm starting from scratch and want to learn. Classes at the local trade school would be great, but with the full-time job, the after-hours and weekend landscaping business, and the family commitments, it doesn't look possible.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Turfman
Just something to ponder. it is very easy to weld with a mig compared to stick particularly for the novice (almost like a glue gun) . for a back yarder you can buy some cheap mig welders today. SIP make quite a range at very reasonably priced welders. Others out there may like to mention some other brands.

I know what i would do, you will have it for many years

 

[EdKing]

You can get the Hobart Stickmate LX 225 AC at TSC for right around $200. If you plan learning on your own, I would highly recomend an autodarkening helmet if you can swing the bucks. It will make starting your arc in the right place 300% easier. A simple wire feed weldor is about the easiest to learn on your own, especially with a regular welding helmet.

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>I've never welded before so I'm starting from scratch and want to learn.</font color=blue>

These other guys know a lot more about welding than I do, so I think they're right about the wire feed, but I've only used one once and didn't particularly like it. For a picture of the first welder I ever used (and still my personal favorite), try <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p000013.htm>this link</A>. I learned strictly from the trial and error method after reading the instructions that came with it. I know that ain't the best way to learn, but it got all the jobs done that I needed to do.

 

[BB_TX]

I am also a novice. I bought a Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC stick welder at HD. I read the manual that came with the welder, read several post here on TBN, got some scrap angle iron, and started playing with it with different rods. Some of the results would have made my mama ashamed. Now after only a little experience, they are actually starting to look pretty good. I have completed several projects including forks for my tractor. A good welding book probably would have helped even more.
I got a regular (non-auto darkening) helmet with the larger view glass to make it easier to see. You will need a slag chipping hammer and wire brush. Wire brush on a cordless drill is even better. A pair of good welding gloves are nice, but I usually forget and end up welding with my leather work gloves on until I pick up a piece of hot steel /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif.

 

[BB_TX]

Oops!! One other thing. Whatever you buy, check the weld cable length. The Lincoln only had about 10' of cable and 5' power cord. That doesn't let you move around very much. HD had extra weld cable (box of 50' for about $60). I got lucky. There was a roll of cable laying loose (no box) that appeared to be less than a full box. I asked the guy how much he would sell me that piece for. He said it had no value as less than a full roll so I could have it for free. When I got home and measured it, it was the full 50'. Sometimes you are just in the right place at the right time. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

In spite of the cost, I would definitely recommend getting the auto darkening helmet first. I bought one before I started my welding class and just love it. It cost almost as much as a cheap welder but I can't place a dollar value on my sight so I spent the money. Unless you have a bunch of old cotten shirts you don't want anymore, spend another $25 for a welding shirt or $50 for the leather jacket. Whatever you do, ONLY wear cotten. Polyester melts and can become part of your skin. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

I realize with these two things I've spent about the same as you might on a small welder. As a novice (or soon to be novice) I'm just trying to pass on some of the things I've learned in the past couple months learning to weld.

Some guys here have found welding classes at their local community colleges or adult education facilities that were really inexpensive. The one I'm taking cost $140 and totals sixty hours of class time. Personally, I'd recommend going that route rather than trying to teach yourself. Just the safety portion alone is worth it. I know I'm spending a lot more of your money than you'd like, but I think these are truly wise investments. The better helmet can help save your sight. The class can teach you things that will save you even more. I hope this helps.

 

[gerard]

I'm a novice too but did take a boces class before I bought so got to use both stick and mig. I bought a lincoln stick 235 AC because of price and I wanted the option of welding heavy stuff. So far I haven't had the amp setting above 120 so I'm probably way overcapacity. If you have someone to do the heavy stuff I'd consider one of the 110 volt migs. With the flux core wire you don't need any gas and it does a great job up to about 3/16. (You can make multiple passes if doing heavier stuff) Mig is much easier than stick and for doing mild steel (which is what most home farm type jobs are) you don't have to worry about changing rod type. Awful tough to beat the price of a stick though - as you've seen they are pretty inexpensive and last forever. OH, yeah - get the self darkening helmut. Well worth it.

 

[Turfman]

Thanks for the tips. Any name brands and vendors of preferance on the helmet? Once again I'm flying blind as to what is the best and where are the best deals.

The helmet would fit well in my Christmas stocking.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I've got two migs, both of them two twenty volt. One of them I have set up for flux core and the other with argon CO2 mix. For every inch of pass I weld with either of those I weld a couple of feet with stick.

I would go with the stick. If you can get an AC-DC machine I'd pay the extra bucks and consider yourself lucky.

The advantages of stick is the flexibility. You can buy rod to weld stainless. To weld stainless with mig you need to change not only wire but gas. You can weld aluminum with stick now. Welding aluminum with mig involves a lot more than just changing wire and gas.

As for the bit about easy versus hard. I see so many bad mig welds. Not just rookies, but folks who should know what they're doing. Now a well done mig weld is as good as a stick weld under most situations. But doing a mig weld right takes at least as much skill as doing a stick weld.

Another thing to consider is you can make an extension cord for your stick from some three-eight romex or power cord. With the stick you can weld outside in the wind comfortably. Mig and gas you're out of luck.

As for the hoods. If you wear glasses go for the biggest lense on your hood you can afford. The Jackson is the probably the best name brand. But I use an older Phantom. I don't know who makes it. I bought it at a welding supply that I rarely to never use. It's been a workhorse. I have three Jacksons sitting there getting old because of it. One of them is the latest greatest three hundred plus model. It sits while the Phantom works because the headgear would do much better in the pond drainage business. It sucks big time.

The only feedback I've got about the Hobart new line of hoods is from a professional that has two Phantoms. He bought one and took it back a week later cause he thought it could give the Jackson competition in pond drainage work.