Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy.

   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #271  
Here is something to think about when choosing a "LARGER" saw,,

I just purchased a saw with a smaller HP,, but,,
the smaller saw has a .325 chain, compared to a slightly larger saw with a 3/8 chain.

From what I read, the .325 chain is pulling out narrower groove of wood,
THAT should take less power.

So, it is possible that a lower HP saw can cut identically to a higher HP,,
if the chain makes the saw work less hard,,
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #272  
Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #273  
Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."
Interesting info! Thanks!
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #274  
The 562xp has gone through several updates. It's pretty bulletproof at this point. It's a fantastic saw. Very smooth. Great power delivery.
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #275  
Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."
I run an 18" bar with the .325 chain on my 550xp. I run a 24" bar and 3/8 chain on my 572xp.

Years ago I ordered the second generation 346xp when they first came out. They were very hard to get so my dealer's rep got me a Euro model with a small mount 24" bar that used .325 chain. That was a sweet setup. Really a back saver for limbing. I wish I knew what I did with that bar. Can't find one anywhere. It was the replaceable sprocket nose bar.
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #276  
If we still had a Husqvarna servicing dealer in my area, I probably would have already retired my 357XP and gotten a 562XP. We have some local guys who work on chainsaws who are pretty good, but they can't do any of the software/computer stuff.
I've had both mine for a couple years. Never been back for any service.
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #277  
Almost a year ago, I bought a Stihl MS500i. It is the least fatiguing saw I have used. Not just because it is light for its power, but because it cuts fast and has a broad torque band. I am a "senior citizen" also.
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #278  
I'm 58 years old and I'm in decent but not excellent physical condition. Average strength I would say.

I am not a chainsaw guy. In other words, I've been using decent consumer Stihl chainsaws all my life but I don't know anything about cc's, chain types, tuning, modding etc etc. Primary use has been yard and property cleanup as well as cutting firewood. I have the proper safety gear and a solid understanding of basic chainsaw safety.

But now I have ordered a saw mill. It should be here in a few weeks. It can handle up to 26" diameter trees.

My primary saw is a Stihl Farm Boss with a 20" bar. I don't remember which one but it is about 3 years old, bought new and was the larger of the Farm Boss saws. In my mind I'm thinking 350 but it might be a 271. I don't even know if the Farm Boss came in a 350. Anyway, it is a decent saw. I suspect it is a consumer level saw with a "farm" designation for marketing.

This weekend I felled several pines that were around 12 inches in diameter. The Farm Boss was okay but not great. I also recently cut up a much larger oak blow down (probably 25ish diameter) and the Farm Boss struggled a lot.

So I am going to be felling larger trees than 12" pines in the near future. My son-in-law will be there most of the time (we'll own the saw mill together). He has a big tuned pro-level Stihl. He has a good bit of felling experience. But I feel like I need a bigger saw for myself. I'm thinking 25-28" bar.

I'm not really looking for brand recommendations.

What I need to know is what I can get for this job that is: 1) Reasonably light. (Again, I'm 58). 2) Appropriately powered for cutting down large but not huge trees. 3) Reasonably safe for my age and experience and 4) What type of chain for my age and experience from a safety vs efficiency standpoint.

Any basic advice much appreciated.

P.S.: Not too interested in modding or tuning a saw.
I'm in my 60s I have a 30" bar on a Stihl 440 Magnum that's my go-to saw for the woodlot and felling.
I have an older Stihl 036 with a 20" bar. That saw is a dream to use and I have a little Echo that was my tree climbing saw I use that for limbing and such after I fell a tree.
 
   / Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy. #280  
I run an 18" bar with the .325 chain on my 550xp. I run a 24" bar and 3/8 chain on my 572xp.

Years ago I ordered the second generation 346xp when they first came out. They were very hard to get so my dealer's rep got me a Euro model with a small mount 24" bar that used .325 chain. That was a sweet setup. Really a back saver for limbing. I wish I knew what I did with that bar. Can't find one anywhere. It was the replaceable sprocket nose bar.
The 346XP NE with a good woods port, reduced squish, Muffler mod and a reduced weight 18 inch bar and sharp chain would still be right up there for a really light, Powerful, Screamer, "firewood" saw.
ah, What do I know- I still like carbs.😁
 

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