Need flail blade advice

[leonz]

I am glad everything worked for your mower.

About the longer brush you can overlap the
cut in the opposite direction to get rid of the
longer growth if you have time.





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Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronpvost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[shdwwzrd69]

Hate to drag up an old thread but I just traded for a rough shape Mott and gonna be looking for parts and was wondering if you were the go-to guy in wny lol im 45 min West of Rochester it's a 72 finish mower but I need a shaft bearing the roller well it's very crusty and not attached would it be better to get rid of it or try to save?

 

[Lnk]

Without seeing the shaft, it would be hard to advise you. If the inner race of the bearing work the shaft, you are looking at a more costly repair, But if the bearing just failed, that can be replaced inexpensively. Just remember that if it is a finish mower, when repaired it will be a finish mower not a rough cut flail. Take pics and post them and we may be able to advise you....

LNK

 

[Fallon]

I just replaced the blown bearings on my 30ish year old Ford 917 flail. If it's just blown bearings, replace em. If the shaft is chewed up it gets debatable. The rotor is the most expensive part of a flail, generally if it gets wrecked you replace the flail. The rear roller can be replaced by a piece of pipe. Not cheap for big heavy pipe, but very feasible to do if the rest of the machine is worth it.

Need photos for a better answer. Also ping Flailmaster, they are a go to for knives, hammers & other flail parts.

 

[leonz]

Hate to drag up an old thread but I just traded for a rough shape Mott and gonna be looking for parts and was wondering if you were the go-to guy in wny lol im 45 min West of Rochester it's a 72 finish mower but I need a shaft bearing the roller well it's very crusty and not attached would it be better to get rid of it or try to save?

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If you can upload pictures that would be good but using a 4 pound hammer to tap the welds will tell you right away its condition.


IF you do have a four pound hammer handy tap the side weldments on the mower shroud lightly that connect the side plate weldments.

if the metal does not vibrate the welds are good on the shroud and the mower is worth saving.

If the side weldments are in good shape you can purchase new rear roller mounts and bearings for the rear roller.

Do not replace just one bearing, change them both as you will be better off with 2 new bearings due to the centrifugal forces created by the flail mower rotor and the side slicers. You can purchase bearings locally from KAMAN industrial supply. all you need is an intact old bearing or the identification numbers on the bearing inner and outer races for both the rotor and the rear roller bearings.

You can call flail master for a catalog and you can get what ever you need from them. The 4 bearings you need are probably less expensive at KAMAN though.