Backhoe Need help attaching backhoe DK55

jeffyhog · May 13, 2020

Hello all, I joined quite some time ago and have used the site for research and information, but now I need some help and hope you guys have the answer.

I bought a used DK55 a couple years ago. It had the backhoe attached and I used it a few times with no issues. I then took the backhoe off, and haven't used it since.

I put it on a month or so ago, and I can't remember which ports the hoses plug into in the back and which position the control levers need to be in.

It's a DK55 and a BK 2385. I have two sets of remotes in the back. I hooked the lines to the left side ports, and the backhoe works if I engage the double action valve. I used the backhoe a while, then the loader bucket joystick became very stiff. I'm assuming the hydraulic fluid was getting hot. After a while, the bucket worked fine. I realized that I didn't have the lever all the way over the detent into the "F" position. Assuming F means float?

If the backhoe hoses are plugged into the right side ports, the backhoe works un only some functions if I hold the other lever in one of the positions with no detent.

What is the correct method for hooking the backhoe up and what position should the lever be in? I couldn't find specific info in the manual dot on this.

Thanks in advance!

Everhard · May 14, 2020

At least one of the rear remotes (I don't know your tractor specifically) should have a detent to hold it open. Use that one to hook the backhoe up to. It's useful to do something like put a ziptie on one of the 2 ports and a zip tie on the backhoe hose that goes into that same port with the ziptie - that way when you hook up the backhoe it's always goes on the right way and your controls won't be "backwards". Alternatively if that rear remote port has detent on both directions you simply move it into the direction that gets the backhoe controls working in the right direction.
When not operating the backhoe it's best to put that rear remote back in the neutral position.
Lastly you can't operate the backhoe with a remote in the Float position. That only allows the connected cylinder to go in/out based on the resistance it meets - like the front loader put in float causing it to go up and down with the bucket following the ground level. As such it's not getting any hydraulic pump pressure.

E.

duckruck2 · May 14, 2020

I dont know about the back hoe but I have a dk55 and my bucket on the fel will not go to full retrack. It has auto level and will not go back past level. Do you have this problem?

jeffyhog · May 14, 2020

Everhard, thanks for the info. I've also been looking at some videos and doing some reading to better understand how these valves work and what they are intended to operate.
After looking closely, I realized that I do have zipties on the hose and the port. The one on the port was hard to see, but it is there. I have two levers in the cab station- one is a return to center control, and the other will hold open whether pulled or pushed. That is also the lever that has the "F" position if I push it over the detent. So it appears that I had the lines hooked up backwards, but I guess it doesn't really matter- I just need to pull the lever instead of pushing it to allow fluid flow to the backhoe. Would having the lines backwards cause the fluid to get hot?

Duckruck, my DK55 has the KL551 FEL which is not the auto-leveling model so on mine the bucket will roll back past level. I read a lot of complaints about the bucket that won't roll back. I'm guessing you have the KL1595 FEL? If I remember correctly, there was some type of upgrade kit to address the rollback issue.

duckruck2 · May 15, 2020

Sure would like to know who has the upgrade. My dealer dont know about an upgrade.

jimglassford · May 15, 2020

For the roll back kit, there were two versions, 1590-2035 is the full version and costs $1,780.04 from Michigan Iron and Equipment. 1590-2050 is a hardware kit. Michigan Iron did not list a price. Their web site asks you to call. I have the original POS KL1595 and it is the most worthless loader ever made. It now sits in the field and has not been on the tractor for many years.

duckruck2 · May 15, 2020

Thanks very much for the reply. May have to put a different fel on the tractor, maybe can find a used one. Thanks

jimglassford · May 16, 2020

I have thought about welding plates onto the loader where the pivots are located for the self leveling arms. That way I can install better roll back cylinders and change some geometry. I have no idea why anyone would want a self leveling loader.

Everhard · May 18, 2020

It's not really backwards, it's really just a preference, the oil doesn't know a difference regardless which way the valve is used. As for it getting hot, that I can't comment on - I don't leave my control for the backhoe indefinitely in the detent position but when I'm using the backhoe I've certainly had it in that position for hours on end and no issues. In fact if the backhoe is on technically you can leave that valve in the detent position as far as I know without any negative effect?
The only time that becomes an issue is if there's a valve on the backhoe that is deadheading which isn't typically possible as usually a backhoe doesn't have a valve with a detent position. So the backhoe valves should always return to center. (neutral)
As I'm typing this I'm thinking maybe you had another valve control activated like the other rear remote? That can happen accidentally but you want to make sure you don't run the tractor like that as you can damage the pump. (Plus other controls start acting strange!)
I would suggest check all your controls, make sure they are in the neutral position, including check your 3pth - make sure the arms aren't somehow jammed? activate the valve for the backhoe and then see what happens - your loader should function like normal and the oil shouldn't get hot. (Beyond normal assuming you're actually using the hoe)

E.

jeffyhog · May 18, 2020

Everhard said:
It's not really backwards, it's really just a preference, the oil doesn't know a difference regardless which way the valve is used. As for it getting hot, that I can't comment on - I don't leave my control for the backhoe indefinitely in the detent position but when I'm using the backhoe I've certainly had it in that position for hours on end and no issues. In fact if the backhoe is on technically you can leave that valve in the detent position as far as I know without any negative effect?
The only time that becomes an issue is if there's a valve on the backhoe that is deadheading which isn't typically possible as usually a backhoe doesn't have a valve with a detent position. So the backhoe valves should always return to center. (neutral)
As I'm typing this I'm thinking maybe you had another valve control activated like the other rear remote? That can happen accidentally but you want to make sure you don't run the tractor like that as you can damage the pump. (Plus other controls start acting strange!)
I would suggest check all your controls, make sure they are in the neutral position, including check your 3pth - make sure the arms aren't somehow jammed? activate the valve for the backhoe and then see what happens - your loader should function like normal and the oil shouldn't get hot. (Beyond normal assuming you're actually using the hoe)

E.

Thanks for the info. I've been using the backhoe to remove some pretty big oak stumps. The bucket continually gets caught on roots and sometimes it will break them, but many times they are just too big. I think I'm probably keeping the pressure on for too long after the bucket stops moving, which would be the same as deadheading, correct? Maybe I'm heating up the oil by expecting too much from the backhoe. I know it's applying a lot of force, as I actually ripped my bucket a bit the last time I used it and need to repair it. I'm not sure what normal heat is- the cylinders are pretty warm to the touch, but not what I would think abnormal. The only issue I've noticed is my front bucket control getting stiff for a while.