Need help - MF135 Diesel won't turn-over

[MFIndustrial20]

I have a 1975 Massey Industrial 20 / almost the same as a 135 with the Perkins 3-cylinder diesel.

It runs like a top and always starts easily.

Today I fixed a leak on the injector pump by replacing the o-rings on the throttle shaft and fuel cut-off shaft, and I replaced the fuel filter.
I put everything back together and started the engine (before I purged the air out of the fuel lines) and it ran as good as always until the remaining fuel in the fuel line ran out. Then I started to purge/prime the fuel lines and fill the fuel filter bowl by loosening the vent screws (as outlined in the manual) and turning over the ignition using the ignition key/starter.

Before I could get the lines completely purged, the engine quit turning over.

I assumed it was a dead battery, and tried to jump it... didn't work.
Bought and installed a new battery, same thing...

When I hit the ignition I don't get any noise, I can't hear the starter engaging or that dead battery clicking noise. I can however see the amp-meter drop slightly when I bump the ignition.

What could the problem be?
Stuck Starter and/or solenoid?
Engine bound in an odd position?

This is puzzling me.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Egon]

Check battery connections, at starter and at the ground. Check fuses. Tap starter solenoid. If it has a key or switch check that out.

Then ???

 

[MFIndustrial20]

Where should I tap the solenoid?

The wiring is pretty straight forward. There's only one 30A fuse on the tractor and it's good .The ignition switch must work if it's causing changes on the Amp-meter. The ground goes straight from the battery negative to the engine head. The large positive cable goes to the starter and the ignition wire goes through the neutral shift-safety interlock switch (which could be the issue) if the starter or solenoid haven't died. Never had a problem with the starter... sux

 

[flusher]

I have a 1975 Massey Industrial 20 / almost the same as a 135 with the Perkins 3-cylinder diesel.

It runs like a top and always starts easily.

Today I fixed a leak on the injector pump by replacing the o-rings on the throttle shaft and fuel cut-off shaft, and I replaced the fuel filter.
I put everything back together and started the engine (before I purged the air out of the fuel lines) and it ran as good as always until the remaining fuel in the fuel line ran out. Then I started to purge/prime the fuel lines and fill the fuel filter bowl by loosening the vent screws (as outlined in the manual) and turning over the ignition using the ignition key/starter.

Before I could get the lines completely purged, the engine quit turning over.

I assumed it was a dead battery, and tried to jump it... didn't work.
Bought and installed a new battery, same thing...

When I hit the ignition I don't get any noise, I can't hear the starter engaging or that dead battery clicking noise. I can however see the amp-meter drop slightly when I bump the ignition.

What could the problem be?
Stuck Starter and/or solenoid?
Engine bound in an odd position?

This is puzzling me.

Thanks for your help!

Put that new battery on a charger overnight and then try again.

If no luck, then pull the starter and bench test it. Check for damaged gear teeth on the bendix.

 

[Egon]

The large positive cable goes to the starter and the ignition wire goes through the neutral shift-safety interlock switch (which could be the issue)

Check it out.

Tap the starter/solenoid pretty well anywhere. But not all that hard. Also try rocking the tractor back and forth with it in gear. Use the highest gear and try and move a back wheel. Of course you have the ignition off. This may release jammed gears on the starter flywheel.

Any inspection ports on the bell housing one can look in.

As mentioned taking the starter off may be the easiest and tell the tale. It may have been overheated when you were cranking and bleeding the fuel system.

Disclaimer: It's quite obvious that I'm not a mechanic

 

[jlsmith]

Make shure it is out of gear and try shorting across the starter to see if your getting any fire. It may be your key switch. Also check your ground cable and make shure ur getting a good ground.

 

[Mur386]

Use a test light on starter solenoid lead from switch, better yet use a volt meter, it should be nearly battery voltage. No less than one volt from the reading across battery terminals, example battery is 12.6 volts, switched lead from switch should be more than 11.6 volts, if not trace it back to crank switch and check it there. both connections. If your getting the correct voltage at starter from switch and starter main positive cable is also reading battery voltage then the starter has left the building. good luck.
Billy

 

[MFIndustrial20]

I really appreciate all your help. I will test with the fluke meter as soon as the rain stops. I did short across the starter solenoid between the large terminal and the small terminal (to start) and didn't get anything. Then I shorted across the large terminal and the buss-bar that goes down into the starter to see if the starter would spin... nothing there either.
No idea... maybe a bad solenoid?

 

[Mur386]

If you shorted between the positive cable on the solenoid and the lug going into starter. IF you have good voltage at cable end, then most likely it is a failed starter/ or brushes, there is the old time trick of whacking the starter with a hammer while holding key to start but that will not always work. Use the fluke results will be much better.
Billy
ps shorting across the cable to the lug makes the solenoid less likely to be at fault, but you still got to have voltage.

 

[KendRichardson]

I'm having the same problem with my MF 135 Diesel. Also, the lights quit working at the same time. It will start if I short across the starter solenoid but the lights still do not work.
Any suggestions?