Need input on off-road log trailer
- Thread starter jpbear
- Start date
Knotbored
Silver Member
Is there some way to pick the hitch from the ground with the 3 pt hitch? Remember your tractor is unhooked and busy loading logs, and you dont want to jockey that full trailer up and onto the hitch.
I kind of visualize a big triangle that grabs a hook on the trailer-lifts and centers the hitch over the ball on the tractor.
I kind of visualize a big triangle that grabs a hook on the trailer-lifts and centers the hitch over the ball on the tractor.
Ken S.in Ky.
New member
Knotbored
I see you're thinking about this thing. I was thinking of that too.
Could a person use the bottom of the grapple with a bar across it to lift the tounge for coupling?
Ken S.
I see you're thinking about this thing. I was thinking of that too.
Could a person use the bottom of the grapple with a bar across it to lift the tounge for coupling?
Ken S.
I used a old 4 place snowmobile trailer. Just narrowed and shortened it, then added upright tubes. The equalizing dual wheel works great for off road use. A ratchet strap works to keep logs from falling off.
Jeff M
jimmysisson
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Jeff, that looks very useful. Do you load it with a second tractor loader, or by hand, or unhitch/load/rehitch? I agree about the walking beam axles - best in the woods. What kind of hitch do you use?
Jim
Jim
Egon
Epic Contributor
Go for the farm wagon type. They are not that expensive and do come in many different weight ranges. 
Jim,
I built the trailer to use with my ATV. I do load by hand and unload with my tractor using forks. The logs are fire wood left from my food plot openings. Brush piles are in various places. The logs are about 8-10 ft long 5-12 inches in diameter. About 15-20 per load and between 50 to 80 lbs each. Total load 1000-1500 lbs per trip. I load in the center over the tires with no tongue weight. This is about 1/2 the capacity of the axles.
I do not know what kind of equalizing suspension is on this trailer, it was on the snowmobile trailer. There is a pivoting bar with a center pin that the front and back leaf springs attach to. When traveling through the forest, one tire can drop in a hole and the other will carry the load. It is amazing how well this works. I did not plan this design, it is just what was on the trailer. But when I build another one I will use this design.
Jeff M
I built the trailer to use with my ATV. I do load by hand and unload with my tractor using forks. The logs are fire wood left from my food plot openings. Brush piles are in various places. The logs are about 8-10 ft long 5-12 inches in diameter. About 15-20 per load and between 50 to 80 lbs each. Total load 1000-1500 lbs per trip. I load in the center over the tires with no tongue weight. This is about 1/2 the capacity of the axles.
I do not know what kind of equalizing suspension is on this trailer, it was on the snowmobile trailer. There is a pivoting bar with a center pin that the front and back leaf springs attach to. When traveling through the forest, one tire can drop in a hole and the other will carry the load. It is amazing how well this works. I did not plan this design, it is just what was on the trailer. But when I build another one I will use this design.
Jeff M
BigEddy
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I'm with Eddie Walker. I never figured out why everyone wants to drag firewood logs back to some central spot to cut them up. Fell em, block em where they fall, split em, and then put them in the trailer to have stacked. Otherwise you are cutting, dragging through mud, loading and then unloading - all before you start to cut them up. The less times you handle it the better - IMO.
If I had a firewood processor - maybe then I'd haul them out to it - but even then I'd locate it as close to the felling spot as I could. And for lumber - you need to deal with logs - but again - locate the mill as close as possible to where the tree stood.
I know - to each their own - but I don't get it.
As for trailer design - my preference for any bush trailer is the walking beam. The wagon style just is not as maneuverable through the narrow trails and if your bush is anything like mine - I have to back in or out a lot which is difficult enough with a wagon on an open field - never mind a twisty trail.
I designed a flip down axle stand for mine. When I go to park, I lift the 3pt up a bit - flip down the stand, and lower the trailer onto it. Uncouple the ball and drive away. Come back - raise the ball into the coupler and connect - then raise a bit more to flip the stand out of the way. Makes life a bit easier.
If I had a firewood processor - maybe then I'd haul them out to it - but even then I'd locate it as close to the felling spot as I could. And for lumber - you need to deal with logs - but again - locate the mill as close as possible to where the tree stood.
I know - to each their own - but I don't get it.
As for trailer design - my preference for any bush trailer is the walking beam. The wagon style just is not as maneuverable through the narrow trails and if your bush is anything like mine - I have to back in or out a lot which is difficult enough with a wagon on an open field - never mind a twisty trail.
I designed a flip down axle stand for mine. When I go to park, I lift the 3pt up a bit - flip down the stand, and lower the trailer onto it. Uncouple the ball and drive away. Come back - raise the ball into the coupler and connect - then raise a bit more to flip the stand out of the way. Makes life a bit easier.
mopacman
Silver Member
It is eazer to drag a log out of the woods then carry a lot of peaces out. We drag or winch logs out and load with a boom truck it takes to long to cut and load each peace with a boom truck. We usely get about 4 cord a day off of other peoples property. Then we cut and split when we have time. a lot of the time we have to use boom truck to put peace on the spliter.
Thanks for all the input. The trailer is about 90% done. Just need to finish welding the tongue and paint it. Also built a log grapple which works great. I will post pictures when the trailer is done.
I have been doing firewood for a many years. When I was a little younger, not that I am old now, we used to split by hand. Not that bad when I was in my early 20's. But as I am getting older, and hopefully smarter, I am trying to lessen the amount of strain I put on my body. So if I can lift the wood one less time, by hand, I feel I am ahead of the game. Plus I am an engineer and love to design and build stuff. It also helps that I own a machine shop and have lots of steel and metal working machines at my disposal. Sometimes I just enjoy building the implements.
Hopefully pictures by the weekend.
Thanks, Joe
I have been doing firewood for a many years. When I was a little younger, not that I am old now, we used to split by hand. Not that bad when I was in my early 20's. But as I am getting older, and hopefully smarter, I am trying to lessen the amount of strain I put on my body. So if I can lift the wood one less time, by hand, I feel I am ahead of the game. Plus I am an engineer and love to design and build stuff. It also helps that I own a machine shop and have lots of steel and metal working machines at my disposal. Sometimes I just enjoy building the implements.
Hopefully pictures by the weekend.
Thanks, Joe