Need Insulation Advice For New Shop

[monteu]

Hello to all: stumbled onto this forum and it looks interesting. I need some advice. I am building a 40 x 60 x 12 shed using Adams Trusses. These are clear span trusses. 40 x 30 of this is going to be enclosed and insulated. Now what insulation? Spray foam is extremely expensive, 1.90 per square. I know it is good. Thermax rigid board is expensive also. Rolled fiberglass insulation is the most economical or a foam type foil backed board. I do want it insulated, I will try to keep it around 60 degrees. I live in NE Kansas. What have some of you done and really liked for insulation? Thanks for your input

 

[Rustyiron]

Don't skimp on insulation! check out Welcome to Insulation Depot - Rigid Foam Insulation, Used Insulation, Roofing Supplies, Roofing Material and see of they have anything within a reasonable distance from you. I put a layer of tyvek under the metal and that is another cheap item that is worth it. Just because the steel siding keeps out the rain, you'd think that it would also keep out the wind, well not all of it. This is very important especially if you use FG. The R value drops like a rock with air movement thru it. I put 2 layers of ridgid poly iso. of 1.5", 3"total, and foamed all edges of each layer. (I got it from the guys at the above link) I have radiant heat in the slab and it works out real nice. The weak link is those dang seals on the overhead doors. There must be a better way to seal the doors, there's 120' of gap on 3 14x12 garage doors!

 

[Depmandog]

When I built my pole barn 42x68x14 with wood trusses, I used metal building insulation between the heavy gauge metal siding and wood framing. The insulation has an all service jacket.

Rips and tears can be repaired with ASJ tape. I bought mine at a insulation place off Van Brunt in KC called Superior Insulation several years ago. They cut the pieces to length, are 4' wide, and the jacket has an overlap. It's a full run - no cuts all the way across my roof - 45 feet or so.

It wasn't the easiest thing to install, but the building sure is warm. You have to install it as you put on the metal.

The only downside, keeping the mice from tearing it up. I have 3/4 ply on the inside of one corner where I have fence post, ect leaning in the corner. I will probably skin 8' up all around with the ply. It will be dual purpose, thieves cut through the metal, ripped the insulation and the alarm got them, but the ply would slow them down some. I hate thieves.

I don't know if Superior will sell to the public, I ordered it thru a building contractor that I know. But in this economy I doubt they tell anyone no (if they are still in business).

Dean

 

[KennyG]

If you are studding up interior walls at 16 or 24 centers, conventional fiberglas batts are best for that. For exterior walls you want something that spans between the posts, meaning something like polyiso foam. I was able to find good used polyiso sheets for $5 a sheet. Check with commercial roofing companies to see if they have some or know of a source. Polyiso is way superior to the home improvement foam.

The roof/ceiling is really important. If you are leaving the truss area open, you almost have to do something like spray on the underside of the roof steel. If you want a ceiling, you can attach interior steel panels to make the ceiling (to keep weight low) and blow cellulose above it.

Whatever you do, put a good vapor barrier on the inside of the insulation. I used 4 mil clear poly. It's pretty easy to work with.

 

[PAfarmer]

I spray foamed mine and its a huge building. I could almost heat it with a candle now. Expensive but it works a treat.

 

[Depmandog]

The roof/ceiling is really important. If you are leaving the truss area open, you almost have to do something like spray on the underside of the roof steel. If you want a ceiling, you can attach interior steel panels to make the ceiling (to keep weight low) and blow cellulose above it.

If you decide to add ANY weight to your trusses - ie adding a ceiling, etc., let your truss manufacturer know so the can design the added weight into the truss calculations.

Side note: Most of the time, your truss manufacturer is relatively local and will factor in snow loads, but if not local - make sure they know your geographic location. Everyone once and a while we get those plains blizzards and ice storms in this part of the country.

Dean

 

[monteu]

What is the difference between polyiso and polystyrene besides the price?

 

[Bigkrank]

I have a 42 X 45 and a 54 X 83. Both are insulated on the sidewalls with 6" fiberglass covered with painted OSB and ventilated soffit for noise control.

You can get rolls of insulation 7 1/2 feet wide to go between the posts. Ceilings are metal with fiberglass cubes blown in.

I helped a bullheaded buddy build a shop and pieced 24" wide fiberglass batts between the posts, what a joke.

Our Features - Energy Performer® Package by Morton Buildings, Inc.

i n.

 

[sawduster98]

I spray foamed mine and its a huge building. I could almost heat it with a candle now. Expensive but it works a treat.

Mine's not huge, 24x24x10 but also spray foamed. Best $$$ I spent. I use a 5kw electric heater set on its lowest setting to keep it around 60. Now I wish I'd done my whole house with it.

 

[KennyG]

What is the difference between polyiso and polystyrene besides the price?

Polyiso is a closed cell foam with very fine grain. It is much easier to work (cuts smooth), more durable and has, if I recall correctly, about twice the insulating value.