Need structural advice for tractor shed.

[N80]

I haven't put pencil to paper yet, but I was thinking each bay would be 8 feet wide so it would be 24+ feet across the front. The roof would slope down from front to back. I'm guessing that the tractor plus mower would be at least 15' long so I'd need it to be at least that deep. Maybe I need to downscale to 2 bays. That way I could configure the 6x6s like this.

back

O--------O--------O


O--------O--------O


O--------O--------O

front

This would allow 8 foot spacing all the way around.

 

[N80]

I haven't put pencil to paper yet, but I was thinking each bay would be 8 feet wide so it would be 24+ feet across the front. The roof would slope down from front to back. I'm guessing that the tractor plus mower would be at least 15' long so I'd need it to be at least that deep. Maybe I need to downscale to 2 bays. That way I could configure the 6x6s like this.

back

O--------O--------O


O--------O--------O


O--------O--------O

front

This would allow 8 foot spacing all the way around.

 

[Egon]

Why not use a manufactured truss and leave the entire center open?

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Egon]

Why not use a manufactured truss and leave the entire center open?

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Why not use a manufactured truss and leave the entire center open?

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

Yup, use their engineer & their cheap volume prices. Save some headaches & such - much better way to go & likely won't cost any extra.

Buildings span 8 - 9 feet between posts here in MN, but snow load is an issue - need those horizontal roof supports able to take the load.

Snow. wind load, pitch of roof, and so on all make a difference on what size roof supports you need.

--->Paul

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Why not use a manufactured truss and leave the entire center open?

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

Yup, use their engineer & their cheap volume prices. Save some headaches & such - much better way to go & likely won't cost any extra.

Buildings span 8 - 9 feet between posts here in MN, but snow load is an issue - need those horizontal roof supports able to take the load.

Snow. wind load, pitch of roof, and so on all make a difference on what size roof supports you need.

--->Paul

 

[N80]

I used manufactured trusses when I built my log cabin and they were a breeze, but I don't have the money to do that here. But this will be a very simple shed roof and I already have a supply of metal 'straps' to attach the rafters and a great excess of roofing screws to attach the metal roof (so it will be well secured!).

 

[N80]

I used manufactured trusses when I built my log cabin and they were a breeze, but I don't have the money to do that here. But this will be a very simple shed roof and I already have a supply of metal 'straps' to attach the rafters and a great excess of roofing screws to attach the metal roof (so it will be well secured!).

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

George,
I built a 24 X 48 pole barn a couple years ago and it's survived some impressive storms.
to save $$$ and have a longer life span on my 6X6 posts, I built them up out of treated 2X6 stock. (pressure treating goes all the way through the 2X stock where it may not in the 6X stuff) glue and 16 penny nails hold them together just fine.
also "painted" the parts of the posts that are set in concrete.

I used an 8' spacing between the posts with two 2X6's at the top for the rafters to sit on -- which have shown no tendency to sag in the past 7 years. (one inside and the other outside so it's flush with the other girts)
Girts on the side walls were also 2X4s on 2' centers with diagonal bracing at corners nailed to the girts on the inside (kept it plenty square for when we put the steel on).

Used 4/12 pitch manufactured trusses on 8' centers and 2X4 purlins on 2' centers between. (hung the purlins between the rafters with joist hangers for quick assembly -- nailed the joist hangers onto the rafters on the ground so when we hauled the rafter up we could space it with a couple of purlins in no time)
Rafters were tied to the top girt with hurricane straps.

using this type of construction, you'd need 12 posts - 4 front & back, then 2 more on each side for a 24' X 24' shed. Trusses give you clear span inside.

good luck!

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

George,
I built a 24 X 48 pole barn a couple years ago and it's survived some impressive storms.
to save $$$ and have a longer life span on my 6X6 posts, I built them up out of treated 2X6 stock. (pressure treating goes all the way through the 2X stock where it may not in the 6X stuff) glue and 16 penny nails hold them together just fine.
also "painted" the parts of the posts that are set in concrete.

I used an 8' spacing between the posts with two 2X6's at the top for the rafters to sit on -- which have shown no tendency to sag in the past 7 years. (one inside and the other outside so it's flush with the other girts)
Girts on the side walls were also 2X4s on 2' centers with diagonal bracing at corners nailed to the girts on the inside (kept it plenty square for when we put the steel on).

Used 4/12 pitch manufactured trusses on 8' centers and 2X4 purlins on 2' centers between. (hung the purlins between the rafters with joist hangers for quick assembly -- nailed the joist hangers onto the rafters on the ground so when we hauled the rafter up we could space it with a couple of purlins in no time)
Rafters were tied to the top girt with hurricane straps.

using this type of construction, you'd need 12 posts - 4 front & back, then 2 more on each side for a 24' X 24' shed. Trusses give you clear span inside.

good luck!