Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice...

   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #11  
If you are looking to put brakes on the arch, I would look at something like this, Tie Down Engineering Model 66E | Brake Actuators | TrailerParts when you slow down the 4wheeeler, the brakes would autoaticly activate on the arch. Might be a little spendy buying the hitch and the brake assembly for the arch, but it would work
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #12  
If you are looking to put brakes on the arch, I would look at something like this, Tie Down Engineering Model 66E | Brake Actuators | TrailerParts when you slow down the 4wheeeler, the brakes would autoaticly activate on the arch. Might be a little spendy buying the hitch and the brake assembly for the arch, but it would work

Those are surge brakes, yes? If so, you can't actuate them manually, or turn them on to hold you on a hill while you contemplate your next move, or stop you from rolling backwards, etc... they only work when the trailer pushes against the tow vehicle.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #13  
I was dragging a couple doug fir logs on my property that that calculator estimated being 3200lb (about 65' long, 6" small end 18" big end) and my 4000lb 26hp tractor would barely pull them directly on the ground dragging from the small end... it drug one but not the other so I cut it shorter. I should make a log arch but I don't have much wood to cut on my property after I cut down those last fir trees...

If you get the heavy end of the logs off the ground it would probably drag the logs, I like that picture above, simple and would lift the log downhill just enough to move forward.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice...
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Can't you just cut the logs into smaller lengths? Or do you need them that long for a project?

These will be sawn into trim boards. I could go shorter, but then the waste goes up. If I need a 8' length, with 20' logs I'd have a 12' drop which is usable. With 10' logs, I'll have a 2' drop which will be scrap.

I'm also assuming that these logs are not perfect and I'll have some cull. With a 20' length, I'll a better chance of getting a usable 8' length than if I was sawing 8' logs.

I'll also have twice the number of logs to saw so that cost will go up. Actually, the sawing is free, but I'd rather ask to have them cut 4 logs than 8.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice...
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I doubt the ATV has enough braking action to set the surge brakes.

The last time I pulled my heavy home built splitter through the woods, it got rather interesting. On a short, steep hill the splitter jacknifed the ATV so quickly that I never had a chance to react. Thankfully the ATV stayed up right and between the trees.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #16  
There are electric brake controller that simply work off brake light switch.... No inertia or anything exotic.... IT simply increases braking power to 'lectic's the longer the controller see's brakes are being applies.... And yes they will lock up brakes in emergency.....

Trailer Brake Controller Information | etrailer.com

Would not be hard to put brakes on log arch with proper spindles and brake apparatus.... Everything you need is available at any decent "trailer supply" either brick & mortar store or online.... Think I would go electric over surge just because of controllability factor let alone weigh considerations... Electrics also have manual control/override feature that surge does not have...

Also consider when considering log arch drag weight resistance of front end of log is greatly reduced because it on wheels...

Dale
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #17  
Do you have help? A paddle on a pivot that rubs the tires and is activated by a cable which can be pulled by a lever by someone on the back of your atv is simple and cheaper than electric. Electric brakes need lots of maintenance because once they rust a little the magnets don't work like they should.
Is it your sawmill or someone else's? Bandmill or circle mill? How long can the mill cut? I hate to saw logs that have been drug on the ground. One little rock embedded in the bark can ruin a new band I would drop the trees and cut to length for straight sections before hauling them out, and try to keep them off the ground.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #18  
Miss, you are making the assumption the log doesn't taper. I also noticed the site is assuming the tree is green with 75% moisture. These have been drying for 6 months, so I'd guess the moisture to be around 35%. Not sure how much of a weight reduction that equates to, maybe 1-200lb. Still 4x the weight of the ATV. Guess I'll have to use the skid steer to move them. That'll suck because I'll need to make multiple trips.
"multiple trips??" were you thinking of hauling more than 1 at a time with the ATV/log arch?

I would think with a decent skid steer you could load two trees butt end on the forks/grapple/bucket and back out dragging them.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice...
  • Thread Starter
#19  
"multiple trips??" were you thinking of hauling more than 1 at a time with the ATV/log arch?

I would think with a decent skid steer you could load two trees butt end on the forks/grapple/bucket and back out dragging them.

Multiple trips to the woods. The property with the trees is 2.5 hours from my home so I'll need to drive the skid steer 2.5 hr, load the trailer and then drive 2.5 hr back home to empty the trailer. I'd then dead head back to the woods so I can pick up the skid steer. With the arch I could get the logs to a landing and then winch them onto the trailer so only one trip is needed.

I know that with my skid steer that I can pick up a 30' utility pole from the butt end. I'll probably have to do the same here because the trails are not wide enough to pick them up in the center.
 
   / Need to build a log arch. Looking for a little advice... #20  
I have a log arch I bought from Northern, its not the best one out there by far, the box was destroyed when it arrived, & it was missing parts, with winch gear stripped the first time, etc. Its too short to be able to back up in the woods, the winch web jams on the roller, & the chain they give you is a joke. However, all that being said, for the price (sub 250 on sale) it works surprisingly well (with a few upgrades). I tow it with my Polaris 700, & have moved long logs with ease. The arch is short so the tail end typically drags, which helps on downhills, but mine are typically short hills. My Polaris is rated to 1050 pounds from the factory, but have towed a 1500+ popup camper with it no problem, and even heavier logs with the arch. I have lost traction up hills, where I had to leave the log & go get the loader to get it. But you said you were all downhill. I don't know that you are pulling 2500#'s with an ATV, but the arch definitely helps lower the rolling resistance.

I figure you spend +/-$75 in gas to round trip the skidsteer, so if you factor in the lost 5 hours of extra travel, this thing isn't a terrible investment.
 
 
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