New 1974 Massey Ferguson 150

[dieselman1967]

Try shoving that third lever all the way forward...

If I recall, dad's has a detent to hold it forward, in the "normal 3ph operation not using the loader" position, click it back to the middle for loader work, with the 3ph hight control all the way up and draft control lever all the way up to 'constant pumping'.

Keep in mind, dad's is a mf135, which I believe has a lower GPM hydraulic pump (3.5 GPM vs 10 GPM), so the loader vs 3ph prioritization of hydraulic fluid may not be an issue for you.

Play with the levers, both loader and 3ph controls. Hope it works!

I think you are going to be right about the third lever. After further research, it looks like there has to be some type of diverter valve, and that 3rd lever must be it. It even looks different than the other 2. From what I understand, on these older tractor that just have an internal hydraulic pump you can either run the loader or the 3 point, not both of them together. I'll report back after I check it out this evening.

 

[dieselman1967]

Welcome to TBN. Join the fun.
My MF was a 1964 MF135 diesel with MultiPower. $3600 from a neighbor. He used it to mow and disc his olive orchard. The tractor was lowered for that kind of work.

View attachment 482662View attachment 482663

Good luck

Looks like a nice little 135! My uncle let me have this one for $3500. I feel like it was a pretty good deal

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It's pretty common for a diesel to sit for "years" and then start right up. It's also common for a gas engine to sit for a few months and be much harder to start... That's just one more reason I MUCH prefer diesels...

Those old Masseys are pretty good tractors, well worth putting a few dollars into them to fix them up...

SR

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hey guys!

Yesterday I went and picked up my new to me 1974 Massey Ferguson 150 Diesel. My Great Uncle, who is 91 years old, bought it brand new in 1974 and was the only owner of it. It was his main tractor on his 60 acre horse farm. Anyhow, when we got there yesterday it had been sitting in the barn for 2 years untouched. We put a new battery in it, topped the oil off, and the dang thing started in less than 1 revolution of the engine. My Ford 2000 gasser doesn't even start that easily after sitting 2 weeks! These Perkins diesels are amazing.

It does need a little bit of work though. All of the loader cylinders leak and need to be rebuilt, as well as all new hydraulic hoses. The 3 point hitch also doesn't work right now (It is in the down position and will not raise). The rear axle seals also leak. But I don't mind putting in some work since it was my Uncle's. This is one tractor that will definitely never be sold. I'll post some pictures up once it's off the trailer.

On the right side just uner the seat (the lift cover) there may be a diverter valve that provides hydraulics to the 3 pt , to a loader, or a remote connection. Try moving that valve to various positions to see if you can find a position where the 3 point works.

 

[SIMassey]

There are 3 levers. 1 raises the loader, 1 curls the bucket, and my Uncle thought the 3rd one was for the rear remote, but he couldn't remember for sure so I haven't messed with it. I'll do some more messing with it when I get home from work today

I see from your pictures you have three levers on the top of the transmission as you stated.

If all three valves are in one housing, there should not be any hoses connected to the far left valve. The outlets should be capped or plugged.

The left lever needs to be pulled and held and the two levers for the loader centered to operate the three point with the two levers on the right side of the seat.

The one closest to the seat is the position lever and is used to raise and lower rear blades, mowers etc. The one next to the fender is the draft lever it is used to control things like moldboard plows etc. Soil engaging implements. To raise the three point pull both of those levers back to the stop. You can then raise and lower the three point with the position lever.

To use the loader, center the left valve and pull the position lever past the first stop to the constant pumping position and use the other two levers to run the loader.

Run the position lever in the constant pumping only when using the loader otherwise you will hear a thumping sound when the pump is deadheaded and the pressure relief valve is blowing. If you run the three point in the constant pumping position, the left lever should self center when the three point raises all the way to the top.

Post a picture of the valve on top of the transmission for me to confirm this.

Simassey

 

[dieselman1967]

Simassey you are right! With the 3rd lever pushed or pulled, I can operate the 3 point with the normal 3 point controls on the side.

But I can also operate the 3 point with just the 3rd lever on the control valve. If I push the 3rd lever forward the 3 point will raise, and pulling it back will lower the 3 point. Will it hurt anything doing it this way? It's much easier to just use that 3rd lever, versus trying to hold it and move the 3 point lever and steer the tractor.

Thanks for your help!

 

[SIMassey]

Simassey you are right! With the 3rd lever pushed or pulled, I can operate the 3 point with the normal 3 point controls on the side.

But I can also operate the 3 point with just the 3rd lever on the control valve. If I push the 3rd lever forward the 3 point will raise, and pulling it back will lower the 3 point. Will it hurt anything doing it this way? It's much easier to just use that 3rd lever, versus trying to hold it and move the 3 point lever and steer the tractor.

Thanks for your help!

That was my next thing I was going to mention but you discovered it yourself. There are screws on the front of the valve called switch valves. They can be screwed in to operate a double acting cylinder or screwed out to operate a single acting cylinder. On the third valve, I believe it needs to he screwed in to be able to raise and lower the three point with the third lever. Operating this way, I am told that you should run the position lever in the constant pumping position. With the switch valve screwed out, you can only raise the the three point with that lever. I may have this reversed and would have to look at my tractor to see for sure.


It is perfectly fine to operate this way but when you need precise control such as grading a drive you can raise and lower in very small increments locking that third lever and using the position lever on the right. With the switch valve set where it is, you can easilly run the three point either way to get the job done.

This is how mine is set up. Although on mine , I have to pull the lever to raise the three point and push to lower it. We may have slightly different valves. Took me a long time to figure this out.

There is also a speed control on the right side down where the heal of your foot would set. It controls the speed of descent of the three point. The heavier the implement the slower the drop.

 

[dieselman1967]

That was my next thing I was going to mention but you discovered it yourself. There are screws on the front of the valve called switch valves. They can be screwed in to operate a double acting cylinder or screwed out to operate a single acting cylinder. On the third valve, I believe it needs to he screwed in to be able to raise and lower the three point with the third lever. Operating this way, I am told that you should run the position lever in the constant pumping position. With the switch valve screwed out, you can only raise the the three point with that lever. I may have this reversed and would have to look at my tractor to see for sure.


It is perfectly fine to operate this way but when you need precise control such as grading a drive you can raise and lower in very small increments locking that third lever and using the position lever on the right. With the switch valve set where it is, you can easilly run the three point either way to get the job done.

This is how mine is set up. Although on mine , I have to pull the lever to raise the three point and push to lower it. We may have slightly different valves. Took me a long time to figure this out.

There is also a speed control on the right side down where the heal of your foot would set. It controls the speed of descent of the three point. The heavier the implement the slower the drop.

It's just gonna be used for bush hogging and maybe get hooked to a disc harrow every now and then, so I'm just gonna leave it as is for now. I figure if it worked for my uncle for this long, it should work for me. I do have to say that I am glad I can easily work the loader and the 3 point without have to worry about flipping a separate selector valve like others have.

Again, I really appreciate your help! I'm sure I'll be back with more questions along the way as this is my first loader tractor. The next order of business is to rebuild the hydraulic cylinders and get new hoses made.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi, you'll find this is one of the all-time top tractor model groups - capable, extremely user-friendly and with basic maintenance reliable to the point of being almost unkillable. :thumbsup: You're even more fortunate - it is a diesel, and has a bucket.

You're in the same enviable position as we are - custodian of a machine that was for decades relied upon, valued and cared for by previous generations of your own family. Look after it (better than I currently do ours), use and enjoy it as well as encouraging your children to as well, and preserve it with them involved so it stays in the family.

My father bought our diesel 135 new when I was a boy, we now have it and all drive it doing various jobs here. I recall after it was parked in the shed for over 9 years, I pumped up two tyres, fitted a battery, checked oil and water. Then I turned the key - it cranked over for 2-3 seconds and started up like it had been working the previous day. I was quite amazed, also that instantly took me 30 years down memory lane! I could drive onto the tilt-tray I borrowed to bring it 400 miles to where we now live.
That was about 10 years ago. Now not only our son but also both our daughters are extremely familiar with it, and capable drivers as well. :laughing: We'll have it here forever! :drink:

 

[Arc weld]

The hyd's can seem a little confusing. There's several different setups that were used on these tractors. Usually you lock one of the levers back(or forward) and use the side 3 pt. controls. My 135 has 2 levers in front of the seat. The inner one locks back to use the 3 pt. If I put it in the middle position, I then lock the outside one back and the valves for the loader work or I can use the that lever to run a remote cylinder. You can't use them at the same time.