New 8n owner wanted to say hello!

[Hammbone]

Hello to all! I just recently purchased my first tractor, I believe it is a '52 8N, but I have not been able to decipher the s/n just yet. However I do know it is a later 8n with the proof meter and side distributor etc. I bought it off a little old man that finds old tractors, cars, trucks, etc. and brings them back to life and sells them(he had a really cool old 1920's dodge brothers car) I had planned on buying the tractor as nothing more than a work tractor for various jobs such as working my dirt driveway, bush hogging, and maybe some light garden work, with the attitude of if it works don't fix it. The more I tinker with it though, the more I like it and want to start tackling every little thing I come across. I can't afford a complete overhaul/rebuild right now, but maybe sometime in the future . What I know so far: be PO said he replaced the rings and valves because of low compression/smoking bad, and new fluids. What I have done so far: changed plugs auto lite 437, plug wires(TSC ford) distributor cap( old one was cracked) new fuel screens( sediment bowl, elbow to carb) cleaned out and rebuilt carb(full rebuild kit). Have the points, condenser, and rotor to replace but haven't quite gotten there yet. Waiting on a wiring harness(currently a hodgepodge of random wires even speaker wire, and stranded residential type wire) manifold gasket and proof meter cable from just8ns, hopefully will be in this week and I can see if the meter works.

I have only put about 6 hours on it so far using a borrowed box blade with teeth to rip up the ruts and pot holes in my driveway, which was a lot of fun by the way . (I did manage to rip up my internet cable btw, I told the installers not to bury it in the driveway, oh well, maybe they will listen next time). Any way, it ran pretty well pulling the box and I'm overall pretty pleased with it. Did learn that the hydraulics have a slow leak when the pto is off and that one of the brakes is almost shot.

So, my question to you guys, what would be the most important things for me to check out/do before I put to much more time in the seat? Thanks in advance!
Hambone

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like it is ready to work.

a 3pt tht drops rather slowly when pump off isn't too big of a deal.

try adjusting the brakes maybee. plain drum brakes with a star adjsuter wheel.. just jack up that side and go at it with a big screwdriver..

 

[skylarkguy]

Welcome,

That old ford seems about right. Make the adjustment and keep running her.

 

[kenmac]

nice looking tractor. If you don't already have 1. You might want to invest in a over run clutch B-4 bush hogging .

 

[Hammbone]

Thanks for the welcome fellas,

nice looking tractor. If you don't already have 1. You might want to invest in a over run clutch B-4 bush hogging .

I was actually very happy to see that the PO had installed one at some point, but I don't think he ever used it because he had only inserted the roll pin in flush with the outer edge of the coupling. I think I have read somewhere that these should have grease fittings installed in the holes? Is this correct?

I think I may have stirred up some issues with this 'ol girl when I started putting in new parts though, because it's no running quite right now like it was before. The day after I worked my driveway it stared having power issues and would barely stay running except at almost an idle. Any throttle applied instantly choked it out. I checked the fuel sediment bowl and found a good amount of crud in it and also in the elbow screen so those ere both replaced. The carb was leaking around the gaskets and the linkages were all floppy loose so i figured if all that needed done I'd clean it up and rebuild, make sure none of the jets and passages were clogged with that crud. After reinstalling and tuning it was running great. Took it for a few runs up and down the driveway(1/2 mile down and back) and I thought I had really done something!

Next day it started doing same thing again. This time I opened up the distributor and found it with no dust cover and lots of crap in it and the points did not look to be in the best if shape. Last night I cleaned out the distributor, filed some rust off the breaker plate and installed new points, condenser, and rotor. Never done a distributor before, but the cam had a little wiggle to it, possible issue there maybe? Anyway, I set the gap on points, put it all back together and I saw no difference. It wants to immediately die if the throttle is increased unlesss you do it reeeally slowly, and sounds really rough. Kinda disappointed that didn't help, but I'm still thinking that the re-wiring is going to help. Looks like I'm going to be learning more about this tractor than I thought!
Sound guy
I did get the brakes tightened up nicely though, so it will stop if it actually gets going!

 

[Soundguy]

see if tugging hte choke a bit helps on throttle up. if so.. she is way lean.. that could be a lean set main needle.. or the carb main circuit is dirty.. or the fuel screens ( all 3 of them ) are plugged up.

if choke does not help, or makes it worse.. make sure float is not set at less than 1/4" or it may allow flooding.. ( or that flaot is not heavy.. or needle gummed up.

lastly.. the cam lobes int he dizzy need a lil synthetic grease.. or at least moly lube.

 

[Hammbone]

I think I might have a fuel tank lining issue or just a bunch of crap in it. I did notice that there was already a noticeable amount of stuff I the sediment bowl before I called it quits last night. It's probably only had 30 minutes of run time since the screens were cleaned and carb cleaned and rebuilt. It ran great for the first 15-20 minutes of it though and I did not change anything I between it being good to going bad. How often should I expect to have to clean the sediment bowl/ screens out? Do I have to drain the tank to get to the third screen? Also, are you talking about greasing the weights under the breaker plate or the part that actually pushes the points open?
Thanks,
Hammbone

 

[Hammbone]

Oh, and the choke didn't really seem to do much, maybe make it worse if anything

 

[Soundguy]

there are advance weights and they could be slightly lubed to move freely. and then there is the cam surface that the points rubbing block rides on. that also needs a LIL lube.

top screen is in tank above tap, 2nd screen is a disc int he sed bowl, 3rd screen is in the elbow going into thr carb

 

[Hammbone]

Ok, scratch the sediment idea, it was getting dark and it was just a grease smear on the bowl. However I do think I may have something in the carb not quite right. I fired it up tonight and it was sounding rough, I tapped on the side of the carb with a screw driver handle and it cleared up. Anyone have trouble with a brAnd new needle sticking? I can bottom the idle adjustment screw out and it doesn't kill it, defiantly rich though pumps out fume/smoke in the exhaust. Turn it back out a bit and it does well. Not sure exactly where the main mixture ended up, but it is running better now than it has since I've had it. I plan on getting everything lubed up tomorrow after I replace the wiring harness. Who knew tinkering around with an old tractor could be this addicting!?