jimmer2880
Platinum Member
Nice work. I learned a lot. Great pics and great descriptions. thank you! Glad you get to go play now 
New Holland TC35D Top End
- Thread starter ctjstr
- Start date
IH3444
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,065
From the picture of setting the valves with the feeler gauge, it looks like the feeler gauge being used is the 0.08mm-.003" gauge. You stated that they set like an old VW beetle engine, and I am extremely intimate with that check. Anyway, you said 0.008", which sounds right. I used to set my Vdubs at 0.006". Did you misread the feeler gauge? You might want to check that. For first running, 0.003" won't hurt anything, but for a 600 hour period, I would be sure.
Thanks for all the good pics. Great work you are doing. This is weird I also have a NH TC35 and a vette. My TC 35 has 280 hrs on it with no major problems so far. What year is your vette? We have a 2004 yellow couple. It is winter here with lots of ice and snow this year so ours is put away for the winter. I drive it when I can pry my wife out of it.
IH3444 said:From the picture of setting the valves with the feeler gauge, it looks like the feeler gauge being used is the 0.08mm-.003" gauge. You stated that they set like an old VW beetle engine, and I am extremely intimate with that check. Anyway, you said 0.008", which sounds right. I used to set my Vdubs at 0.006". Did you misread the feeler gauge? You might want to check that. For first running, 0.003" won't hurt anything, but for a 600 hour period, I would be sure.
Wondered if anyone would catch that. I had already set the gaps and realized I had neglected to shoot the picture, so I just grabbed the first gage that I put my hands on and slipped it in so show the process. I had no idea that the numbers would show as clearly as they did.
You're dead on with the .006 for bugs. I'd occasionally set the #3 at .008 because of the extra heat behind the oil cooler, but I'm not sure it ever made a difference.
IH3444
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,065
I would set the #3 exhaust at 0.008" also, til the "dog house cooler" came out. Even adapted the "Dog House" to an older 40hp engine.......
gbick
Silver Member
Mr. Jester, interresting thread. What caused the tractor to overheat? (perhaps I missed it)
gbick said:
Essentially, it was my fault. I bought this tractor used. It had at one time had a hole punched in the radiator. It had been pinched and soldered and was initially fine for the first few months I had it. It had then developed a tiny leak, not much more then a damp spot on the core and I was planning on replacing or fixing it. Waited too long.
I was out messing around in the pasture and the repair must have failed. I only had it running for about 20 minutes, but ran it bone dry. Had no idea til it simply belched and died. After it cooled, I was able to put water in it and start it, but the water was pouring out of the rad so I figured out what had happened.
Course it was at about that time that I remembered to look over at the temp gauge, which was pegged.
Moral: don't put off simple repairs, an hour radiator job turns into a 20 hr rebuild.
It was my month for diesel repairs. Right after I got the tractor running I had to start on Becky's Dodge pickup. The injector pump failed suddenly and there was nothing to do but replace it. Those cummins guys are more proud of their stuff then NH....about a thousand bucks for the injector pump. Not a bad job though, took me about 4-5 hours start to finish. A lot less if you know what you're doing. I had to kind of invent a puller to get a gear off the pump, and that took me a while. My goal now is to keep my fingernails clean and keep my clothes from smelling like diesel for at least a couple weeks.
dieselgeek
Bronze Member
ctjstr said:
Funny, I just replaced the injector pump on my ISB Cummins (98 Dodge truck) a month ago. Took me about 2 hours because I'd done it once before on a friend's truck.
On mine, like so many others, the battle was to keep Lift Pumps alive. They kill the injector pump when they fail, and Dodge did a bad thing using a pusher pump as a puller. What I did this time around, is got a $40 AirTek pump (two of them, one for backup) and bypassed the lift pump altogether this time!! And mounted a fuel pressure gauge tapped at the filter head.
Nice pics, great writeup,
-scott