955Lincoln
Gold Member
It's easier to identify which house it came from when you keep the walls and roof together.
New Home Begins
- Thread starter tkappeler
- Start date
It's easier to identify which house it came from when you keep the walls and roof together.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Day two of drywall. All ceilings are done as well as walls in all rooms except the great room. They expect to wrap up hanging the rock inside on Monday. I also expect them to finish the 5/8" on the garage wall common to the house.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
Day two of drywall. All ceilings are done as well as walls in all rooms except the great room. They expect to wrap up hanging the rock inside on Monday. I also expect them to finish the 5/8" on the garage wall common to the house.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
The concrete guy is supposed to finally show up Monday to prep the floor so we can have the slab inspection for Tuesday.
My wife is now charged with picking colors, but especially the kitchen so we can get the cabinets hung.
We are seriously considering doing our own concrete counter tops. Anyone have experience here? Especially with staining?
Thanks.
Depmandog
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
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- 2,556
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- Buckner MO, LaPlata MO
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- 2005 Kubota L5030 GST; Farmall 706, 756, 806 & 1086
Never have done concrete countertops, but it looks like there is a fair amount of knowhow and talent needed. Not trying to talk you out of it, but I would suggest you practice on an outside unit. Perhaps you could incorporate this into your landscape plans??
Love the progress, looking great!!
Love the progress, looking great!!
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Tom, congratulations on your great progress and your selection as TBN Member of the Month for June.:thumbsup: I guess I should also say congratulations on your recent marriage (6 months ago). How many newlyweds can celebrate by building their own home? Good luck to you.
bdeboer
Platinum Member
I have had a couple of concrete countertops on my future project list for awhile, Lol.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
bdeboer
Platinum Member
I have had a couple of concrete countertops on my future project list for awhile, Lol.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
On Amazon there is a book by "Cheng" that is very good.
Also if you google Breaktime # 105706 on Dirtbag Backyard countertop by "Waters" from the Finehomebuilding website.
Sinecure
Bronze Member
Tom -
I have done a couple of concrete countertops for some rental properties I own. It is pretty easy to do once you grasp the general concept. I highly recommend the dvd instruction or book by Cheng.
If these will be your first attempt, I would also recommend you buy a premixed stain additive that you simply add to your cement mix. You will overpay for the premixed additive, but until you get some experience under your belt - it is the easiest way to ensure a uniform color throughout the concrete mix and will look more natural than a concrete stain applied to a finished concrete.
As with anything, the prep work is really the key. It can be done, but I also do not recommend pouring the concrete on to the existing cabinet bases (ie - poured in place). I would go the route of making the template/forms, pouring and then installing onto the cabinets. The template is the critical step. I used thin pieces of wood strip and a glue gun to ensure my templates where the right size and matched up to the wall imperfections/etc. This also allows you to build your forms to the exact tolerences of your cabinet and wall setup based off your template.
During the pour it is critical to vibrate the forms. You will still have small air pockets (pinhole sized) in the top of the concrete. You correct this by applying a slurry to the top of the counters and then wet grinding/sanding until you get the polish level you are aiming for. I would also recommend buying the premixed slurry on your first couple of attempts. The biggest reason is that you can buy it in the exact same color as your stain, so you know it will be uniform.
The other critical advice I would offer is that you just need to remember that any imperfections in your form (ie, undermount sink edge/cutout; dust, form seam caulking job; etc) will be transfered to your finished coutertop. Take your time on the form build and the rest is simply vibrate and then slurry and polish once the concrete cures.
Give it a go - nothing too hard about it. The best case is that if you mess up, you are really only out some time and money for concrete mix. You will also need a couple of cases of beer for your friends that are needed to help carry the completed counters into the house. The jokers are heavy.
I have done a couple of concrete countertops for some rental properties I own. It is pretty easy to do once you grasp the general concept. I highly recommend the dvd instruction or book by Cheng.
If these will be your first attempt, I would also recommend you buy a premixed stain additive that you simply add to your cement mix. You will overpay for the premixed additive, but until you get some experience under your belt - it is the easiest way to ensure a uniform color throughout the concrete mix and will look more natural than a concrete stain applied to a finished concrete.
As with anything, the prep work is really the key. It can be done, but I also do not recommend pouring the concrete on to the existing cabinet bases (ie - poured in place). I would go the route of making the template/forms, pouring and then installing onto the cabinets. The template is the critical step. I used thin pieces of wood strip and a glue gun to ensure my templates where the right size and matched up to the wall imperfections/etc. This also allows you to build your forms to the exact tolerences of your cabinet and wall setup based off your template.
During the pour it is critical to vibrate the forms. You will still have small air pockets (pinhole sized) in the top of the concrete. You correct this by applying a slurry to the top of the counters and then wet grinding/sanding until you get the polish level you are aiming for. I would also recommend buying the premixed slurry on your first couple of attempts. The biggest reason is that you can buy it in the exact same color as your stain, so you know it will be uniform.
The other critical advice I would offer is that you just need to remember that any imperfections in your form (ie, undermount sink edge/cutout; dust, form seam caulking job; etc) will be transfered to your finished coutertop. Take your time on the form build and the rest is simply vibrate and then slurry and polish once the concrete cures.
Give it a go - nothing too hard about it. The best case is that if you mess up, you are really only out some time and money for concrete mix. You will also need a couple of cases of beer for your friends that are needed to help carry the completed counters into the house. The jokers are heavy.
OP
tkappeler
Platinum Member
The garage floor and porch were poured yesterday. The sheetrock is all up and first coat of mud is done. Second coat tomorrow and he hopes to touch up/sand Friday. Upcoming plans are:
siding when the weather is good. Looks like rain Friday and into Saturday, so I can work on the steps into the laundry room then. We also hope to paint the kitchen this weekend so we can begin to put the cabinets up ASAP. We will using some of our leftover 1x6 tongue and groove under the cabinets as spacers to raise the cabinets up so the hardwood can just slip under the toekick edge by 1/2" or so. We can then shim as needed to the T&G.
siding when the weather is good. Looks like rain Friday and into Saturday, so I can work on the steps into the laundry room then. We also hope to paint the kitchen this weekend so we can begin to put the cabinets up ASAP. We will using some of our leftover 1x6 tongue and groove under the cabinets as spacers to raise the cabinets up so the hardwood can just slip under the toekick edge by 1/2" or so. We can then shim as needed to the T&G.
If I may be so bold as to suggest renting an Airless Paint Sprayer for the painting this weekend. Putting the primer coat and then the base coat on new walls is a time consuming job with rollers or a brush. One can do in hours with a airless sprayer what can take days using a roller. New construction areas are nice for airless spraying, no molding, door frames, floors etc to worry about getting paint on.
I have a airless sprayer which I purchased at the Home or Lowes several years ago on sale. When I have a paint project planned I stop at U-Haul, purchase a couple of movers boxes and cut them into barrier strips. I hold the strip in my left hand and press it up against the area I don't want painted. No fuss, mess or clean up. The cardboard catches the over spray and only leaves a small thin area to be touched up with a brush. A metal cheater bar is available for this. Even professional painters use them.
I have a airless sprayer which I purchased at the Home or Lowes several years ago on sale. When I have a paint project planned I stop at U-Haul, purchase a couple of movers boxes and cut them into barrier strips. I hold the strip in my left hand and press it up against the area I don't want painted. No fuss, mess or clean up. The cardboard catches the over spray and only leaves a small thin area to be touched up with a brush. A metal cheater bar is available for this. Even professional painters use them.
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