New to me TC29D cranks & won’t start

[CalienteJohn]

Fuel pressure.?? I thought the inj. pump was gravity fed.??
The fuel went from tank to filter, then to injection pump.. let me know if I’m mistaken..

You are correct gravity fed

By fuel pressure I meant to test for high pressure fuel after injection pump

Someone mentioned that previously here in this thread

 

[the old grind]

I mentioned condensation in fuel lines in a previous post. My BTDT with TCs is that there is a spill cup with a drain hose around the filler and under the hood. Tree duff can clog the drain and rain water will fill the cup above the rim of the cap.

This will by thermal expansion of air/vapor in the tank to siphon that water into the tank where it will settle as expected. I've had to thaw lines to clear them twice. (not tarped in Winter back then, Doh!) My prevention is to remove the cup (1) and/or close the hood on a rag or bag (another 1) to overlap the cup accordingly & keep detritus or water from building up in it.

Prior storage can have as much effect as prior maintenance on how quickly a long-parked tractor starts up, how well it runs, or whether it needs serious work. (o/haul. short block, etc)

btw, while my manuals are for the newer DAs the wiring is pretty much the same, as are most of the mechanicals. Did we ask what the hours are or which FEL? (7308?)

 

[the old grind]

When I had water in fuel lines, at the end I did a lot of bleeding at the handiest injector so a lot of cranking. Being darn sure all water was removed would have been easier if I'd had the GPs out. It'd spin faster and be easier on the starter.

And we know if there's water anywhere in the fuel system to expect a bit of coughing and clanking until it's fully purged and we're getting fresh fuel to the injectors.

 

[CalienteJohn]

That’s a very low compression reading.. how confident are you in the test.?? Are u taking it from the glow plug holes.??
Have u tried another compression gauge.??
U can rent them for some parts houses.. AutoZone..

I bought the deluxe diesel test kit from harbor freight.

I’m fairly confident in test each time after adding oil the pressure increased at each cylinder by similar pressure. Pressure held until I bled to disconnect gauge

Correct pressure test from GP holes individually. Replacing each GP before moving to next cylinder

 

[thepumpguysc]

It would spin faster if u took out all the gp’s and did the test..
I don’t recall ever doing it 1 x 1..
If u wanted to do a “backyard” test of the fuel system, u can remove the steel lines from the pump and injectors, turn the lines around to where they point to the outside of the engine..
Snug them back up to the pump..
Remove the injectors from the head and hook them back up to the lines..
Spin the engine and watch to see if the injectors squirt..
WORD OF CAUTION..
DO NOT GET NEAR THE SPRAY.!!!
THE ATOMIZED FUEL WILL PENETRATE YOUR SKIN AND GIVE YOU BLOOD POISONING.!!!
Or just send it all to me..(wink)

 

[MTGreen]

1. How is this possibility of leaking injector pump determined? Do I monitor oil level on dipstick or ?? Sorry if dumb question once again it’s late I’m tired just give me the fish don’t make me google haha.
2. New tractor to me I have not yet changed engine oil

Smell the oil from the dipstick. If it smells like diesel either that seal is leaking or it's been cranked for a long time with rings not sealing

Doubt the ring soaking is going to fix your problem. I think you'll need to pull the pistons.
Everybody will have their theory about what's going on based on their experience, but if your compression numbers are legitimate, nothing external is going to fix your problem and it is unlikely that all 3 sets of piston rings are going to be dry in such a way to give consistent poor numbers

 

[thepumpguysc]

Just to keep you on the right path.. there is no 1 seal that’s leaking..
U have a pump called a PFR pump..
Google it..
The fuel is sealed internally by metal to metal sealing surfaces..
There are orings that keep the fuel from leaking EXTERNALLY..
If u have fuel in the oil, so bad that it’s noticeable.. there’s only one major component where it can come from: the injection pump..
The injectors “can” dilute oil “IF” they’re stuck open and putting fuel into the cylinders like a water hose..
Injectors are tested with a gizmo called a POP TESTER..
They’re hooked to the tester and u pump up the pressure on its gauge until the injector “opens”.. or pops.. hence the name “pop tester”..
Each injector has to be set equally according to its specification..

 

[MTGreen]

Just to keep you on the right path.. there is no 1 seal that’s leaking..
U have a pump called a PFR pump..
Google it..
The fuel is sealed internally by metal to metal sealing surfaces..
There are orings that keep the fuel from leaking EXTERNALLY..
If u have fuel in the oil, so bad that it’s noticeable.. there’s only one major component where it can come from: the injection pump..
The injectors “can” dilute oil “IF” they’re stuck open and putting fuel into the cylinders like a water hose..
Injectors are tested with a gizmo called a POP TESTER..
They’re hooked to the tester and u pump up the pressure on its gauge until the injector “opens”.. or pops.. hence the name “pop tester”..
Each injector has to be set equally according to its specification..

Poor man's quick and dirty pop tester (sort of) is pulling an injector, angling that injector tube out away from the engine, reattaching injector, and cranking/observing pattern. Pressure is high enough to inject through skin so obviously it needs to be pointed away from anything living.
Note this doesn't test for appropriate pressure being developed by the injection pump or if the injector is popping open at the right pressure (like a real pop tester) - however it will test if the pump is developing enough pressure to pop that specific injector and what that injector pattern looks like. Allows you to make certain there is fuel getting in the cylinders

EDIT: thepumpguys just said this exact thing in post 55 -sorry didn't see that

 

[MTGreen]

One other thing is if you're using ATF as a penetrant, use the type F trans fluid made for pre-computerized Ford transmissions. Much better for the application than any of the newer formulations.

Easy to see for yourself what it does to your hands versus newer fluids

 

[LouNY]

With the numbers that you got from your compression test she'll never start, using the starter. If it was a geared tractor you could try a tow start but I would just about say it's teardown time. It has a slight possibility of bad or misadjusted valves. But my first guess is broken pistons or rings.
Good luck.